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Building Tips and technical articles. => Building techniques => Topic started by: Tim Wescott on February 20, 2013, 09:14:22 PM
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How are Brodak's full-fuselage ARFs put together? I admit to not looking closely at any of them. I'm trying to figure out how you cover all the pieces with 'coat and then assemble, and the only way that I can imagine making it happen either ends up needing to split the fuselage below the wing (for a more or less bolt-together assembly, like the Top Flight Nobler ARF), or pre-installing the controls and trying to slide the wing and tail in without making a huge mess.
Pictures, or pointers to build (assemble?) threads with same would be appreciated.
Thanks.
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How are Brodak's full-fuselage ARFs put together? I admit to not looking closely at any of them. I'm trying to figure out how you cover all the pieces with 'coat and then assemble, and the only way that I can imagine making it happen either ends up needing to split the fuselage below the wing (for a more or less bolt-together assembly, like the Top Flight Nobler ARF),
All those that I have seen have been just like that, the fuselage it cut out in the normal place below the wing.
Brett
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Thanks Brett. I've set myself a goal to design a full-fuselage plane that's almost as easy to assemble as a profile, but looks better than a Hobo. I may even pull it off (particularly if I cover one eye and practice saying "of course that's good looking!").
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You can build up and assemble a full fuse model and cover with 'Kote afterwards also. Just plan ahead with the construction to allow it. I usually follow the method that Allen Brickhaus has described in some of his construction articles. Once construction and assembly is complete (but not including fillets), cover the wings and stab up to the fuselage with a bout a 1/8" to 3/16" gap. I usually paint the fuse, and at this time I apply the fillet material and overlap the 'Kote but about 1/8". I use finish cure epoxy mixed with micro balloons for fillets, as they help strengthen the wing/fuse joints, and once you are practiced with this method, never need sanding and paint has never lifted on them for me. I mark the 1/8" line and lay down some tape, apply the fillet mix, smooth it out, thenpull the tape, smooth it a bit more if needed, then let dry. If it's an ARF with a covered fuse, cut away what ever covering material you need foe a good glue joint, then you can use the same fillet material, or just use your favorite color of silicone caulk tpo seal the joint to make it look better. One could cover the fuse in the same way before the fillet material is applied, then the wing/fuse joint could be painted as desired to match a paint scheme or the covering material. The results won't be front row material, but still pleasing enough to many people. It just depends on how much work you want to do and that determines the finished product. With the many health issues that some people suffer from, MonoKote fills the bill for a decent finish for those who can't paint with dope for what ever reason. And it is durable and repairable, which ever brand you buy. Depending on the effort applied, it's not much faster or any less work, and may notbe cheaper, but it gets the airplane finished and in the air. I like doing a silkspan and dope finish, but with the work situation and family issues I just don't have the time, and iron on coverings, ARF's andbought airplanes have kept me in the game .
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee
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Hi Tim,
I have an ARF Strega that has been sitting for a couple years and finally decided to toss it together(Jokes on me!!!) so I could fly something quick while I finish my Shark 45.I wanted to make it electric so I figured on saving weight by removing the un-nescessary junk.The bare fuse weighed in at 13.2 oz. after I peeled the lovely banana yellow off of it.It is as Brett said under the wing and the fuse is very fragile at the LE position.All the ply in the tank compartment was easily removed.It was barely glued in and with a simple twist with a pair of pliers it delaminated and splintered into easier to remove pieces.The motor mounts were of a spiecie unknown to me.Certainly not Maple and it had a very peutred odor when I was removing it with the dremel.All the bulkheads behind the wing were 1/8th heavy birch plywood.I cut LARGE holes in the sides between bulkheads and hogged out all I could reach with the dremel.Aint real pretty but it only weighs 7.6 oz. and that is after about an oz. of carbon fiber,cloth and epoxy I added for strength.I removed almost 7 oz.It is stiffer than before I started and is ready to RE cover.ARF.....Maybe not so much but if you don't mind taking it out of the box and fixing it.I will try to post some pics of my swiss cheese fuse,Trax
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Jeff,
I can relate to that. n~
I'd like to see the photos of your efforts.
Charles