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Building Tips and technical articles. => Building techniques => Topic started by: Avaiojet on March 24, 2014, 09:31:46 AM
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Some modelers attach their control surfaces last. I'm guessing after finish, paint and clear coat.
I've never done this that way. I've always attached the control surface then finished and painted the model.
I'd like to have some information about this other way. I'm considering this.
Glue used?
Oil of hinges if necessary?
Are hinges set in place on one side first? Or?
Alignment?
Gap?
Clean up?
Etc?
Explanation and photos would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Charles
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you might try the search function,, there are lots of posts dealing with hinges and the various ways people install them,, I did a quick look "installing hinges" and got several options
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I cut the slots and dry-fit the hinges before covering, assemble and cover (or cover and assemble), then install hinges, then trim.
I use one long piece of music wire per surface for a hinge pin, and I make lucky boxes or embed brass tubing in the surfaces for the control horns, but do not glue them. By doing all this, I can easily remove a control surface even after it's fully hinged.
Then when I paint, the surfaces go on or come off as makes the most sense to the job at hand. Usually I have the surfaces off for painting, then they go back on to mask the trim that extends from wing to flap or from stab to elevator, then they come off to actually get squirted with paint (then repeat, if there's more than one trim color).
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you might try the search function,, there are lots of posts dealing with hinges and the various ways people install them,, I did a quick look "installing hinges" and got several options
I did a search and came up empty.
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I cut the slots and dry-fit the hinges before covering, assemble and cover (or cover and assemble), then install hinges, then trim.
I use one long piece of music wire per surface for a hinge pin, and I make lucky boxes or embed brass tubing in the surfaces for the control horns, but do not glue them. By doing all this, I can easily remove a control surface even after it's fully hinged.
Then when I paint, the surfaces go on or come off as makes the most sense to the job at hand. Usually I have the surfaces off for painting, then they go back on to mask the trim that extends from wing to flap or from stab to elevator, then they come off to actually get squirted with paint (then repeat, if there's more than one trim color).
Tim,
I seen and read about that "wire" method.
Nice application, but something I'm not interested in for this particular model.
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Even if I weren't using removable surfaces (which you really want right after a crash), I'd still get the surfaces finished at lesat up to the base color before I glued everything together. Trying to sand the finish down in the hinge gaps is a royal pain; sanding a separate surface is easy.
I see that some seriously good modelers fully assemble and then start the finish: I can't imagine doing a decent job that way myself, but others can obviously do it and do it well.
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Even if I weren't using removable surfaces (which you really want right after a crash), I'd still get the surfaces finished at lesat up to the base color before I glued everything together. Trying to sand the finish down in the hinge gaps is a royal pain; sanding a separate surface is easy.
I see that some seriously good modelers fully assemble and then start the finish: I can't imagine doing a decent job that way myself, but others can obviously do it and do it well.
Tim,
You're correct.
There is considerable work sanding the "V" grove at the control surfaces to keep paint build up to a bare minimum. I know that well.
Painting the base color on all parts before assembly is a given and a good start. Great idea! H^^
Here's the thing. The R/C guys I learned to build from, pattern flyers, always pinned the hinges, each and every one. So, I coppied and did the same thing.
So, finishing in those areas, above and below the hinge, remained after assembly. I'd hate to loose a control surface doing this hinge thing differently.
Knowing each step to this method of finishing is important to me. I don't need any mistakes.
I'd hate to have a mishap with this model, it's comming out nicely.
Can't weight to paint it and hang it on the wall. I'm Kidding! Just Kidding! Ya, ya, I'll fly the thing.
I think this model might even do a loop. ;D
Thanks for the reply.
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I always pinned hinges on RC models. Stunt planes get the hinges taped which alleviates the need to pin them.
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I did a search and came up empty.
really,, I got like 20 hits for the phrase "installing hinges"
http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?topic=29880.0
http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?topic=21145.0
http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?topic=21860.0
http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?topic=1922.0
here I did it for you,, there are a couple threads with LOTs of good info
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really,, I got like 20 hits for the phrase "installing hinges"
http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?topic=29880.0
http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?topic=21145.0
http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?topic=21860.0
http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?topic=1922.0
here I did it for you,, there are a couple threads with LOTs of good info
Mark,
Thanks for that, I appreciate it.
I use Internet Explorer, possibly the reason. I did do a search though, honest.
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Mark,
I took a quick look at your links. There's some really good information there, thanks for that search.
BTW. Here's the page that came up when I tried a search, just now.
http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=search2
Thanks for the information and the reply.
Charles
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Mark,
Thanks for that, I appreciate it.
I use Internet Explorer, possibly the reason. I did do a search though, honest.
use the search function that Robert has implemented on THIS page,, not google, or other internet search engines,, you are looking for hobby specific, search the hobby specific pages
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use the search function that Robert has implemented on THIS page,, not google, or other internet search engines,, you are looking for hobby specific, search the hobby specific pages
Mark,
There ya go, what a difference.
Most if not all of what you Posted came up.
I'm still apprehensive about doing it that way.
It will be my first time. I want the gap tight.
Thanks for that help, I appreciate it.
Charles
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I believe that a lot of people in the NW use John Miller's method as described in the attached file. Note that he gives credit to "GSO", aka Gordan Delaney. Also, note what he says about putting the hinges into the moveable surface first, and use of a door jamb to align the hinge depths. Door jambs are pretty darned straight, at least for the short length of a flap or elevator. 8) Steve
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Steve,
Thanks so much for the reply and that file.
I have it saved and I'll read it over tonight.
Charles