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Building Tips and technical articles. => Building techniques => Topic started by: Terry Bolin on November 15, 2006, 09:12:07 PM
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Okay, I recently finished a scratch built Fokker from Barry Baxter plans. I ended up being a little tail heavy. My question is: when I build the next one, can I move the wing rearward a little to off set this?
Thanks , Terry Bolin
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Terry,
Sure, it's your model.
Seriously though, moving the wing back also affects the tail action. It should probably go to the same distance aft of the wing as on your tailheavy one. Wood is lighter than engine/tank/wheels, so you should still get a better CG position. I presume yours is from plans for the SIG profile bipes?
Should help, unless, that is, you'll use it as a Classic entry. Does it qualify? I forget when SIG brought out the profile bipes... If there's an appearance point judging guideline, you'll take some dings off that score, at least. Some organizers might take objection to a pretty visible mod like stretching the nose (which has the same effect as - and looks a lot like - moving the wing back. Since you're cutting the wood, anyway, stretching the nose pieces is probably easier.).
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Okay, I recently finished a scratch built Fokker from Barry Baxter plans. I ended up being a little tail heavy. My question is: when I build the next one, can I move the wing rearward a little to off set this?
Thanks , Terry Bolin
A different angle from Lou. #^
If it is indeed the Sig Fokker, I would look into ways to decrease the weight of the plane behind the wing. I had one and it was a good flying sport plane when flown fairly fast, and it needed to be lighter due to the very thin airfoils on the wings. I would work on decreasing the wing loading, and especially the weight behind the wing. A "built up" profile fuselage from the wing back will be stronger and also lighter.
What engine are you using? (just curious!) <=
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Built up aft fuse is a good idea. I will try that and also I want to use a different airfoil. Like you said: The ribs are pretty thin. I am happy with how it flies, I just really think it could do better. By the way, This is the Sig Bipe. Right now I am using a Fox 35 and a Sullivan tank. I don't know if any of my other engines would be much lighter.
Thanks for the info!
Terry
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Built up aft fuse is a good idea. I will try that and also I want to use a different airfoil. Like you said: The ribs are pretty thin. I am happy with how it flies, I just really think it could do better. By the way, This is the Sig Bipe. Right now I am using a Fox 35 and a Sullivan tank. I don't know if any of my other engines would be much lighter.
Thanks for the info!
Terry
Hi Terry,
That Fokker and it's brother a Spad, were brought out as WW I "Combat" planes. From the little "booklet" included in the kit, a WW I combat event must have been in the works somewhere! ;D So the thin wing didn't matter if you were going to go at it in a fast way, I guess.........
Somewhere around here I have a set of plans for an SE-5 drawn over the 38 Special bipe plans (I didn't draw them). It looks great!