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Author Topic: building table  (Read 2738 times)

Offline Gordon Tarbell

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building table
« on: March 22, 2009, 10:33:13 AM »
I am tired of struggling with my not so flat building table . It is sturdy but not exactly flat. basically a butcher block top on four legs. 36"x60" about .080" dip in middle. I plan on putting a plate of glass on it and shim flat with paper sheets and card stock . What thickness glass? .375" or .500",or other. Should I get it the full size of the table or will 24"x 60" be the ticket? Table sits in corner of my small building room next to my desk , access is mainly from front . I do have an adjuto jig but for some designs I know I should build on flat surface. What does the brain trust here have to offer on this matter?
Gordon Tarbell AMA 15019

Offline Glenn (Gravitywell) Reach

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Re: building table
« Reply #1 on: March 22, 2009, 01:42:33 PM »
I kind of have the same problem.  I have a building board, well about five of them, that I put on the table as needed.  Mine are made of high density particle board, topped with a cieling tile.  That works for me.  My table is also on castors so I can move it as needed, saves having to spin plane around and chance dings, etc. H^^
Glenn Reach
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Online Brett Buck

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Re: building table
« Reply #2 on: March 22, 2009, 03:50:35 PM »
I am tired of struggling with my not so flat building table . It is sturdy but not exactly flat. basically a butcher block top on four legs. 36"x60" about .080" dip in middle.

     If it's wood, I would be sorely tempted to try to true it up with sandpaper. .080 is pretty crooked, so find the high points and knock them down with a belt sander, then when it's close, straighten it up with a rigid sanding block (mine for this purpose is made of a 2x4) and coarse paper. Keep checking, and sanding down the high points. Once you get it in .020 range, it will be pretty easy to even it all up with careful sanding. It's pointless to do a lot better than about .015-.020 - it won't be stable over time any better than that.

   I do this every 5 years or so. I have what amounts to a butcher-block table (with gaps to let the air circulate) and they tend to move around a bit from time to time.

      I use a piece of 2'x4'x3/4" hard-finish high density pressboard for my table top. It can be trued up nicely, you can cut on it and then clean it up by sanding, and it's so cheap you can just toss it when it gets too dingy.

     Brett

Offline Bob Reeves

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Re: building table
« Reply #3 on: March 22, 2009, 06:57:57 PM »
Every since having a work bench in an attic situated so I could only get to on one side my dream was to have a work bench I could walk all the way around. Now I have 2 and love it. One started life as a fairly well built desk. Top wasn't perfectly flat so I bought a 4 x 8 sheet of 3/4 MDF, cut a 4 x 6 piece for the top. Shimmed it flat using old time cards and covered it with a sheet of wall board.

2nd started life as a metal work bench, 6' x 30", put a piece of hard board on top shimmed as best I could with time cards. On top of that I put a piece of 1/4" glass acquired for free. My mistake with the metal work bench was gluing the hard board down thinking it would stay flat. Over time the metal bench has sagged a tad in the middle. Now I don't have a choice but to shim between the glass and hardboard.

In one of Bob Hunts video magazines (can't remember which one) he demonstrates his method of checking a bench to be sure it's flat. Basically you cut a few 1/8 inch ply squares. Put one in each corner with a string running corner to corner across the bench top, use one of the squares to slip under the string at various locations like a feeler gauge.

Offline Gordon Tarbell

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Re: building table
« Reply #4 on: March 22, 2009, 09:39:06 PM »
Thanks for the input guys. I will first true it up with a couple of long sanding blocks, then put some high density particle board down and get that true . after that I can go with glass and or sheet rock for the actual building surface. Thanks again.
Gordon Tarbell AMA 15019

Offline Allan Perret

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Re: building table
« Reply #5 on: March 23, 2009, 07:19:21 AM »
You only need a straight flat surface big enought to build the wing on.  Get 2 each 4 ft lengths of 12" wide melamine shelving material from your local home improvement center.    One is your building surface, the other you rip it up into 3" wide strips which you glue and screw to the underside to keep it straight lengthwise.   Its portable,  you can put it on any old table, and work all the way around.  About $15 of materials.
The melamine is a nice smooth white surface which you can draw reference lines on, or cover with your preferred building surface.  Added benefit is the melamine acts like a seal from moisture, which combined with the ribs will keep it straight over time.  Good idea to also seal the edges.
Allan Perret
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Offline john e. holliday

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Re: building table
« Reply #6 on: March 23, 2009, 09:01:36 AM »
I can't remember if it is on this forum or SSW.  Al Raby uses jigs just big enough for what he is working on.  The jig for the wing and stab builds are made so they integrate with the fuselage jig later.  A search may turn something up unless he sees this and posts pictures his self.  His jig that puts the dehidral in the wing is the one that gets me. 

I like his idea as each jig allows you to work on the peice without taking up too much room.  Even when all the jigs are put together for assembly of the components it looks like it takes up very little room.  Having fun,  DOC Holliday
John E. "DOC" Holliday
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AMA 23530  Have fun as I have and I am still breaking a record.

Offline Bob Reeves

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Re: building table
« Reply #7 on: March 23, 2009, 09:41:05 AM »
Allan's basically correct in that you only need a straight flat surface big enought to build the wing on but if you have room. It's really nice to have a flat surface you can sit a whole airplane on, comes in handy for bench trimming or chasing a weird trim issue. It allows you to block up the wing at 0-0 and measure everything.

Offline Randy Ryan

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Re: building table
« Reply #8 on: March 23, 2009, 09:47:38 AM »
I am tired of struggling with my not so flat building table . It is sturdy but not exactly flat. basically a butcher block top on four legs. 36"x60" about .080" dip in middle. I plan on putting a plate of glass on it and shim flat with paper sheets and card stock . What thickness glass? .375" or .500",or other. Should I get it the full size of the table or will 24"x 60" be the ticket? Table sits in corner of my small building room next to my desk , access is mainly from front . I do have an adjuto jig but for some designs I know I should build on flat surface. What does the brain trust here have to offer on this matter?

I'd look for a place that has a large planer and have it trued up that way. Brett's way will sure work, but a couple passes through a planer would have it done quickly and accurately. There are a number of places now that process reclaimed lumber like barn wood, I would think they could do this fairly quickly and inexpensively.
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Offline Randy Powell

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Re: building table
« Reply #9 on: March 23, 2009, 11:02:29 AM »
Mine has remained suprisingly stable over time. I do pretty much like Brett describes. It's a maple wood top, 1.25" thick. I check it every couple of builds and use a long sanding block (2x4 piece of rock maple) and 50 grit sand paper to level it up. I use a laser level to check it.
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Online Brett Buck

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Re: building table
« Reply #10 on: March 23, 2009, 11:31:37 PM »
Mine has remained suprisingly stable over time. I do pretty much like Brett describes. It's a maple wood top, 1.25" thick.

    Mine's about 4" deep butcher-block, mostly so I can sheet foam wings without the table distorting under the load. I left gaps in every other board (one will be continuous end-to-end, the next row there are 4 8" pieces,  next row continuous, etc) to let the air circulate. It moved around a lot (.020-.030)  for the first 10 years, then it appeared to stabilize pretty well. A typical summer day around here is about like a normal wood kiln. Highest I ever measured in my bedroom is about 119 degrees, with essentially zero humidity, 109 outside. It was kind of hard to get to sleep that night, and the kitchen floor still felt hot the next morning.

     Brett

Offline Allan Perret

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Re: building table
« Reply #11 on: March 24, 2009, 07:45:31 AM »
    Highest I ever measured in my bedroom is about 119 degrees, with essentially zero humidity, 109 outside. It was kind of hard to get to sleep that night, and the kitchen floor still felt hot the next morning.
     Brett
That's crazy.  Where do you live ?
Allan Perret
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Online Brett Buck

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Re: building table
« Reply #12 on: March 24, 2009, 10:34:55 PM »
That's crazy.  Where do you live ?

   San Jose, CA, or thereabouts. It's not like that every day, but it's pretty toasty on a fairly frequent basis. The 109 was an all-time record, but I remember putting the ink lines on the second Infinity one day in June when it was 115 degrees in my bedroom. Made the ink dry instantly, but the sweat drops messed it up.

     Brett

Offline john e. holliday

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Re: building table
« Reply #13 on: April 03, 2009, 07:00:23 PM »
Brett did you forget about the blocks of ice in a galvinized tub with a fan blowing over it?  Seen pictures when I worked for Ma Bell in which that is what they did to keep switch room bearable.  Now a days is's new fangled thing called an air conditioner.  Mine in the new shop works when it wants to.  Have fun,  DOC Holliday
John E. "DOC" Holliday
10421 West 56th Terrace
Shawnee, KANSAS  66203
AMA 23530  Have fun as I have and I am still breaking a record.

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