Author Topic: Build threads look fun (Read 59902 times)

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #350 on:** December 15, 2013, 09:04:28 PM »

When ready I mark where epoxy needs to be applied.

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #351 on:** December 15, 2013, 09:05:41 PM »

Then the ring and backplate is shoved on and tightened up.

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #352 on:** December 15, 2013, 09:10:10 PM »

When cured the engine is pulled and the ring remains.

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #353 on:** December 16, 2013, 09:39:59 AM »

Looking at the weather. Light snow tomorrow on the L-Pad but back here in KC 49, sun and light wind. Might go get a couple flights in tomorrow afternoon!!

john e. holliday · « **Reply #354 on:** December 16, 2013, 10:04:13 AM »

Dave, you need to try the Gorilla Glue sometime for laminations. Have not weighed it but I think it is lighter and stronger than Epoxy. It also sands very easily. Just spotted my Music kit that I had pulled off the shelf some time ago. Have never started it. guess after the current stuff may have to start it for my RO-Jet .40 BSRE with the mini muffler.

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #355 on:** December 16, 2013, 10:19:56 AM »

Quote from: john e. holliday on December 16, 2013, 10:04:13 AM

Dave, you need to try the Gorilla Glue sometime for laminations. Have not weighed it but I think it is lighter and stronger than Epoxy. It also sands very easily. Just spotted my Music kit that I had pulled off the shelf some time ago. Have never started it. guess after the current stuff may have to start it for my RO-Jet .40 BSRE with the mini muffler.

Yup!

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #356 on:** December 16, 2013, 07:45:02 PM »

Won't be much new to see tonight. I rough cut the top block and tack-glued it on with cement. Tomorrow I'll start making the big mess and begin carving. Some are making mold bucks and molding these areas from 3/32 sheet and the like. Really nice! I don't make too many exact copies so can't see the investment in time for a one or two shot deal. Weigh less? Really not sure and can't be much. That depends on how thin you hollow the block. My mind says a block hollowed to 3/32 or molding 3/32 sheet should weight the same sans normal wood variations. If its that thin you'll still need some former support to hold shape long term. Set, game, match. However if I knew I were going to produce at least 6-10 like copies I'd probably do so. Here it's done and I'm on to other things while another is still sanding that mold buck.

MarcusCordeiro · « **Reply #357 on:** December 17, 2013, 03:19:26 AM »

Nice going Dave.

Marcus

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #358 on:** December 17, 2013, 04:47:27 PM »

Thank you Marcus. Got all the top blocks tacked on ready to carve and all three noses together. Lastly I cut and lightened the bottom blocks then glued them on permanently. Here is the smaller ship which should use the .61 but I fitted the pipe tunnel to take a .76 should I decide later to put that in. Flexibility. It's shop night at Pop's so clearing the table so Kevin can work on his Ruffy.

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #359 on:** December 17, 2013, 07:39:31 PM »

Kevin doing his first cloth hinge job.

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #360 on:** December 19, 2013, 09:50:05 AM »

This morning I've been working the top blocks to shape. Tomorrow I'll pop them off and hollow. Then I can get the turtle deck sheeting on.

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #361 on:** December 20, 2013, 10:07:08 AM »

The daughter is away a few days do I can make all the mess I like. So we hollow blocks. I thought I'd get some idea on weight savings of the hollowed block so the first shot is on the scale before hollowing at 28 grams.

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #362 on:** December 20, 2013, 10:08:56 AM »

I put a straight router bit in the drill press and will remove the lions share of wood with it.

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #363 on:** December 20, 2013, 10:09:31 AM »

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #364 on:** December 20, 2013, 10:11:45 AM »

Next I put in this auger ball which cuts slower but more controllably to get it down to the short hair. Then I touch it up with a course sanding sponge.

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #365 on:** December 20, 2013, 10:15:11 AM »

I put the piece back on the scale and got 16 grams, nearly half what I started with. I could do a very little bit more but since I didn't go through anywhere and don't have to fix anything I think I'll just settle for it and leave it about 1/8 with a few thicker spots.

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #366 on:** December 20, 2013, 10:16:17 AM »

Sigment mounts the piece and I'm on the number 2 of 3.

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #367 on:** December 20, 2013, 11:35:32 AM »

Hope this shows up in the photo. On the last block I got a little carried away with the router bit and went through the block a bit. To fix it I applied some gorilla super glue then packed in some balsa dust off the router.

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #368 on:** December 20, 2013, 03:37:56 PM »

Starting the deck work. Here on Capt. Eddie.

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #369 on:** December 20, 2013, 03:41:18 PM »

Here on a Desperado. I'm using some junkie 1/16 sheet to make a pattern then will cut the part from 3/32. Notice the retaining tabs I glued at the top of the sides. This has proven the easiest way for me to hold the bottom edge in place while glue dries. Afterward I cut the tabs off.

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #370 on:** December 20, 2013, 04:37:21 PM »

The sheet is on this side.

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #371 on:** December 20, 2013, 04:37:53 PM »

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #372 on:** December 20, 2013, 04:40:11 PM »

Tools. Here is the cut sheet. Also an atomizer to wet the convex side and a rolled tube used the roll the wet sheet over to loosen the grain up on the wet side and start the curl.

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #373 on:** December 20, 2013, 04:40:50 PM »

Glued and taped to dry.

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #374 on:** December 20, 2013, 06:53:42 PM »

Starting to develop character.

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #375 on:** December 20, 2013, 06:54:13 PM »

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #376 on:** December 22, 2013, 07:25:17 PM »

A long day but squeezing in a hour of shop time. You'll recall when I set the stabilizers on they were just lightly tack-glued on. I wanted to wait until the rear fuselages were built and stable before I really nailed them down. If needed I could crack them loose, I've already accidentally done that on two, so they could be shimmed true to the wing in the horizontal plane. Then epoxied. This is the first one and sure enough a 1/32" shim is required to correct a slight twist.

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #377 on:** December 22, 2013, 07:31:30 PM »

I'm wanting to keep the epoxy application minimal for weight and I will back these joints up with carbon later anyway so I tape up for application then peel off the tape taking away all extra.

RknRusty · « **Reply #378 on:** December 22, 2013, 11:42:37 PM »

Still riveted watching this build. I'll be ready to start my first full fuselage plane by next Winter, and your comprehensive documentation will be a valuable source of how-to information. Thanks, Dave.

Rusty

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #379 on:** December 23, 2013, 07:24:56 AM »

Very kind Rusty. We are getting pretty close to completing the airframes, maybe a week or two. Have three days off this week so should make progress.

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #380 on:** December 25, 2013, 05:55:59 PM »

After a great day with the fam, I stole away to the shop to get parts together to make cowlings. Really a lot of parts! The center fill blocks are 5 laminations of light wood to get to 2 3/8 width between the sides. I find a plywood ring on the air opening makes shaping more accurate and easier. Now to glue it all together.

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #381 on:** December 25, 2013, 07:02:00 PM »

MarcusCordeiro · « **Reply #382 on:** December 26, 2013, 08:07:52 AM »

The ply ring is a neat trick...

Marcus

wwwarbird · « **Reply #383 on:** December 26, 2013, 10:42:39 PM »

Quote from: MarcusCordeiro on December 26, 2013, 08:07:52 AM

The ply ring is a neat trick...

Marcus

Makes the L/E of the cowl opening much more ding resistant too.

wwwarbird · « **Reply #384 on:** December 26, 2013, 11:24:38 PM »

Quote from: Dave_Trible on December 25, 2013, 07:02:00 PM

...

Dave,

I noticed the Gorilla glue in your photo. I know some folks here use the stuff but I have yet to try it. How does it sand compared to CA? Is it "instant" like CA too? How about the consistency compared to CA, thin, medium, or...?

55chevr · « **Reply #385 on:** December 27, 2013, 05:37:48 AM »

Gorilla Glue sets up fast but it is not an instant bond like CA. It only works where there is no gap. It foams as it cures and while the foam fills gaps it doesn't have any real strength. The best application is in clamped joints. Works well as a lamination adhesive.

Joe

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #386 on:** December 27, 2013, 09:05:45 AM »

I go right along with what Joe says. It IS my cya adhesive. It's a tad slower to set-good sometimes-and it does what I need it to. I understand it has rubber in it. If I need more strength, gap filling or work time then it's the regular cement. Also we have it at work....I can buy it there and not worry about getting to the hobby shop!

john e. holliday · « **Reply #387 on:** December 27, 2013, 10:24:50 AM »

The Gorilla Glue sand very easy for me. Of course what oozes out during laminations is easily cut with hobby knife. I also like that it expands into the pores of the wood. It will also show you every worm hole and pin hole in the sheet. Would not use it for regular gluing like fuse and wing joints.

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #388 on:** December 27, 2013, 12:30:27 PM »

Today is about cowlings. These I anchor in three places, a pin in the front which inserts into the nose ring and two bolts in the rear corners to be out of the way of the pipe header. In the photo I've routed across the rear where I'm going to set in 1/8" plywood pads.

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #389 on:** December 27, 2013, 12:51:07 PM »

Here plywood is cut and epoxied in position.

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #390 on:** December 27, 2013, 04:40:59 PM »

Getting the 3/8"sq. motor stick pieces epoxied in for the rear tie downs.

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #391 on:** December 27, 2013, 05:26:19 PM »

Getting into those little details that drive ya nuts. If you can see it there is a second piece of a 1/8" ply nose ring just behind the full ring. This section is double stick taped to the back of the front ring. Then a little 5 minute epoxy is applied to the cowl which is shoved into position against the ring section. Have to be careful not to let this epoxy go anywhere but where I want it.

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #392 on:** December 27, 2013, 05:30:38 PM »

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #393 on:** December 27, 2013, 05:35:43 PM »

And here I'm marking where to drill bolt holes for the rear tie downs.

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #394 on:** December 27, 2013, 07:30:05 PM »

Retaining pin, bolts holes and setting blind nuts.

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #395 on:** December 27, 2013, 07:30:41 PM »

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #396 on:** December 27, 2013, 07:31:13 PM »

MarcusCordeiro · « **Reply #397 on:** December 27, 2013, 07:50:24 PM »

Dave

It looks like to me you got some serious sanding and carving ahead....
Do you ever leave the shop??

Marcus

wwwarbird · « **Reply #398 on:** December 27, 2013, 08:18:15 PM »

Quote from: MarcusCordeiro on December 27, 2013, 07:50:24 PM

Dave

It looks like to me you got some serious sanding and carving ahead....
Do you ever leave the shop??

Marcus

Heh-heh, think that's a lot of work? Just wait 'til prep and finish time comes around on THREE airplanes at the same time. Whew!

wwwarbird · « **Reply #399 on:** December 27, 2013, 08:18:50 PM »

Thanks for the Gorilla Glue info guys.