In order:
Good picture.
You've done a sufficient job of tacking the tubes down -- they don't need to be married to the tank wall, just nailed down at the ends so they don't vibrate all over.
AFAIK that's the correct way to arrange the uniflow and pick-up tubes, at least mostly.
The only two problems I see (and there's a lot of people who know more about this than me) are that the may be too close to the pickup, and it is a bit low (with respect to the installed orientation, not outside-down as you have it in the picture).
Putting the uniflow too close to the pickup gives you a tank that picks up bubbles from the uniflow. I the rule of thumb I've heard here is 1/2" -- but see my disclaimer about lots of folks knowing more than me. The further away the uniflow is the sooner it stops uni-flowing, but the less chance you have of getting bubbles. Given that your symptoms in prior posts sound like bubbles -- you may want to fix that.
As for vertical position, the whole point of the uniflow is that it makes the tank act like the vent is right at that uniflow outlet position -- you've got the uniflow taked down about 1/8" low, which will make the tank act like it's 1/8" lower than if the uniflow was centered. Having the uniflow not be at center isn't a bad thing in itself -- if you've shimmed a tank to its limit and can't move it any more, you can reset the tube inside and get some more wiggle room. I have a tank in a plane now with the uniflow almost at the bottom edge of the tank for just that reason.
Either a propane torch or a big soldering iron will work. I find a torch easier -- but also a lot easier to burn the tin off of the tank. Move quick and keep trying to pop the lid -- it should all come off at once, and then you know you're done (except for groveling around on your floor looking for where it landed). Someone (Brett Buck, I think) uses a hot plate, which seems like a really good idea to me. You CAN get a tank end off with a big iron, but it's fussy, and you risk bending the thing if you get impatient.