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Author Topic: Brodak Uniflow proper internals?  (Read 10845 times)

Offline Skip Chernoff

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Re: Brodak Uniflow proper internals?
« Reply #50 on: August 08, 2017, 06:14:13 PM »
Chris when I mount a fuel tank to a profile fuse I use small brass cup hooks top and bottom. I place a dense piece of R/C receiver wrapping foam completely under the tank (whether plastic or metal) I then use rubber bands to hold the tank in place. I make sure the tank feed line is slightly higher than the needle valve for starters. If I have to trim the tank for same upright and inverted flight I'll move the cup hooks and reset the tank or in the case of a clunk tank replumb the stopper so the engine sees the feed line at a different elevation. All of this is not pretty,but it works.....remember it's a profile right?.....PhillySkip

Offline RknRusty

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Re: Brodak Uniflow proper internals?
« Reply #51 on: August 08, 2017, 11:06:19 PM »
I agree, those clunk tanks are easy to work with. And they aren't nearly as finicky about position as the metal ones. I don't seem to need to angle the rear out as much as I do with a wedge since the clunk pickup is pinned in that corner while flying out the last laps. I usually pad it with a piece of a thin beer koozie and zip tie it to a slotted ply plate. Wipe some outdoor polyurethane on the plywood.

I don't even plumb uniflow anymore. I use one vent for pressure or open air, and one for filling. Both of those turn straight up to the roof, wired and soldered together, and are bevel tipped so as not to suck up to the wall.

I posted a diagram of it in one of your previous tank threads

Rusty
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Online dave siegler

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Re: Brodak Uniflow proper internals?
« Reply #52 on: August 10, 2017, 01:58:18 PM »
   Don't use a torch, ever, for tanks. To remove the back, use the burner on the stove. It works particularly good on an electric range, but OK on a gas range with it set very low.

     Brett
Paint stripper type heat guns work very well for this


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Offline Dave Harmon

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Re: Brodak Uniflow proper internals?
« Reply #53 on: September 10, 2017, 11:59:08 PM »
To be honest with you I have bought the original armoral and put it in,  I sake the jug and it still foam. Plus a couple of weeks ago my engines started running away wild out of the blue. Found the filters clogged up with stringy fiberglass looking crap. Same thing happened to me last year after trying armora, the day before Brodaks too. I had to use a paint strainer and dump all my fuel into it just to fly this weekend. I've seen a lot of people complain about this. I just don't get why it works for some and not for others. I saw people say they took out the silicon, so I even tried silicon spray.

Chris

Armorall in the fuel also causes 'potatoes' on the glow plug element.
This looks like a bumpy deposit on the plug wire allegedly caused by the silicon in that crap.
It DID stop the foaming though. You can determine if it works by putting some in a fuel bottle then shake it....no foam.
Bring some spare plugs....


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