If I could figure out how to down size my pics I have the stickers or decals from a kit.

If I could figure out how to down size my pics I have the stickers or decals from a kit.

Try this.

https://imageresizer.com/bulk-resize

I have actual decal. I can scan it for you full size. Let me know if this helps and I'll send it your way.
Email me : djsaydak at outlook .com

I wasn't thinking properly in my first reply. I will never use the decals, so if you want I can send them to you via snail mail. Send me your postal address and I'd be happy to do that.

Thanks for your explanation, it makes sense to me now. A good jig solves a lot of problems, and it sounds like your new one is doing the work for you now. Brodak makes available most any of the parts needed or desired to scratch build one of their designs. They will sell you plans, laser cut rib-sets, decals, and many other pieces that might be desired or needed. Knowing now that you live in the UK, I can understand some of your dilemma. (Shipping and all). Let me know if I can be of some help.

Best wishes

John Miller

I substituted the 1/4” LE for 3/8”  and not overlapped the LE sheeting, to allow me to make the LE slightly blunter.

Should be fine. Just make sure you don't use punk balsa here. And, if using silkspan to cover the wing, overlapping the leading edge a little will help strengthen that LE.

I think I’m wrapping my lines too much.  They interfere with the ribs.  Is that normal.  I guess not.  What's the usual recommended length for binding the leadouts with wire?

They look fine to me. It's common for them to interfere a little with the ribs, so just trim out some clearance from the ribs and you should be fine. When I bind my leadouts, I treat the bound length just like with flying lines - follow the rule book and you should be fine (typically ~3/4").

I might be making the suspended bellcrank compression spars a bit too chunky.  Do you think I could get away with just the ‘hatched’ area?

You may be able to get away with the hatched area, but I'm a bit of a fan of spreading the load out as much as possible. Think snowshoes in soft powder. Spreading the load puts less stress on the individual ribs. One thing you can certainly try is to pull test it before sheeting, see how it does. Some top to bottom diagonal bracing on the inboard side would help, as well - again, helps spread the load. Most important thing here is to make sure it is glued to the spars - they take the stress instead of the ribs, and transfer the load to the sheeting, which spreads it to the rest of the wing.

Which hole in the supplied bellcrank would you guys recommend.  I’m sure I saw recommendations to use inner hole but might have been middle one.

I believe that's what I would use. When in doubt, for a fairly modern design, just follow the plans and you'll do well.

Any other recommendations like increasing flap elevator hinge line distance, increasing span of tailplane, making a 3/8” built up tail plane?

Personally, I would simply leave it as-is. Lots and lots of Brodak Cardinals have been built exactly according to the plans and have flown beautifully. Stunt politics aside, Windy definitely knew what he was doing.


Overall, it looks very well done. Just remember what Sparky says - if it isn't connected to something else or doing a specific job, it's just along for the ride and should be eliminated to help save weight. At this stage, however, that weight should be fine. Trim where you can, but do NOT sacrifice structural integrity.

Steve

Hi

Working on Wing Tips today.

3 x sets done for three different wings.

3x weight boxes next then onto flaps and pushrods.

Mike

PS what would the typical weight of a Cardinal with OS 46 LA come out at?

Hi

Bit more progress.  Figure if the nose is too long once i get it together I’ll just saw it off 😀.  Tip weight boxes added to the wings I’m working on at minute.  Look a bit big but actually just fit a 2pence coin which are 7g (1/4 oz) each.