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Building Tips and technical articles. => Building techniques => Topic started by: Dwayne Donnelly on December 13, 2022, 07:14:30 AM
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Got the fuse going, yes I see the pushrod holes are misaligned I'll be using a different pushrod than the one in the kit. ;D
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Did you get the formers in wrong? D>K
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Did you get the formers in wrong? D>K
If you mean the pushrod holes no, I'm using a carbon pushrod so I'll be cutting them anyway. :)
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If you mean the pushrod holes no, I'm using a carbon pushrod so I'll be cutting them anyway. :)
Well...I believe you Dwayne. 😁 I mean, you dont strike me as someone that would put a former in the wrong way and then yank our chains about it.
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Well...I believe you Dwayne. 😁 I mean, you dont strike me as someone that would put a former in the wrong way and then yank our chains about it.
Hey it's not like I've never done anything wrong. Nah... LL~
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Sanding and a carving and a shaping, oh joy. n~
You guys are right, doing this with the wing on would be a royal pain in the rear, thanks. y1
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Looking good Dwayne.
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Sanding and a carving and a shaping, oh joy. n~
You guys are right, doing this with the wing on would be a royal pain in the rear, thanks. y1
this is my method for ages, always carve and sand all of the fuselage withou tail and wings attached. can´t stand hitting the sheeting all the time while sanding or flipping sides in a tiny workshop as mine
good work so far, and great choice of plane!
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Thanks for the comments, still sanding and with the top front block not hallowed out yet the fuse weighs 5.6 oz. I'd say that's pretty good. ;D
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Wow, 5.6 ounces. Darn thing must be hollow. y1 LL~
I cannot tell a lie, it's filled with helium. LL~
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I've decided I don't like how the fiberglass cowl fits so I making my own, sooo more a sandin and a shapin. n~ <=
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Cowl coming along nicely and weighs 4 grams less than the one from the kit. :)
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And so it begins, my first beamer wing. #^ ;D
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Dwayne did you drill the holes for the landing gear?
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Dwayne did you drill the holes for the landing gear?
Hi Alen, yes the holes are drilled, I'm using wire the way Bill shows in his video. :)
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ok just asking there to drill after the ribs are in place
you got a nice build going on have fun building it
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And so it begins, my first beamer wing. #^ ;D
What kind of covering will you use on the wing?
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What kind of covering will you use on the wing?
Brodak silkspan and dope.
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Once you get the hang of it things move along quite easily and I do like the look of a uncovered I-beam. ;D
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Once you get the hang of it things move along quite easily and I do like the look of a uncovered I-beam. ;D
Good Choice. I do like the look of the ribs reflecting off the wing. Its the sanding and buffing that tests your character. Yikes! 🤯 Had a nice Argus years ago. Maybe a Cobra or something in the future. Windys I beam Spitfire was on another level. Too bad there are no plans for it.
PS. Joe Adamusko said Brodak heavy silkspan is closer to the old medium silkspan in terms of strength.
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Starting to look like an airplane, y1
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That's one down one to go, soooo much shaping and sanding on this plane, sanding and shaping, sanding and.... n~
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Wheel pants done, and for my first time making them I have to say they came out nice. ;D y1 #^
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Hi Dwayne,
Good looking model and one of my favorites. Do yourself a favor and used poly-span & dope, it’s way stronger that silkspan. You can remove warps with ease with the poly-span and an iron, it’s much more resistant to damage and wholes in the wings, use Jap tissue on the fuse on the fuse fin. The finish will come out really light and durable.
Keep it going your doing Great!
Later,
Mikey
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Hi Dwayne,
Good looking model and one of my favorites. Do yourself a favor and used poly-span & dope, it’s way stronger that silkspan. You can remove warps with ease with the poly-span and an iron, it’s much more resistant to damage and wholes in the wings, use Jap tissue on the fuse on the fuse fin. The finish will come out really light and durable.
Keep it going your doing Great!
Later,
Mikey
Thanks Mike, the problem is I live in Canada and I'd have to order from Brodak, prices have gone up and shipping is now insane, I have the silkspan so...
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If you have a good fabric store, go browse the store and see what they have. If you search in the finish section you will find planes I have covered with light weight poly-ester cloth. Some with dope clear and others with mylar covering over the fabric. You maybe can find some material that is like the DOC paper that I have also used. Right now I'm stripping a plane that I covered with DOC paper and mylar covering. lSome areas I didn't get clean enough and paint that that was sprayed was coming loose. There is a post forth coming as soo as I get pictures done. D>K
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Dwayne, try contacting Jon at the Balsa Dust factory, he just put 2 polyspan in the mail for me. If your in a hurry, i will send you mine, because the other is spoken for. H^^
Kevin
Ps, The last time i used Polyspan was on a 35 size profile, and with only the center section sheeted, filling the weave on that much open bay area added WAY to much weight for me. I will only use it on D tube open bays only from now on. For your Ares, thats alot of open bays. Silkspan is easy to repair. and your plane will be alot lighter.
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Ps, The last time i used Polyspan was on a 35 size profile, and with only the center section sheeted, filling the weave on that much open bay area added WAY to much weight for me. I will only use it on D tube open bays only from now on. For your Ares, thats alot of open bays. Silkspan is easy to repair. and your plane will be alot lighter.
Kevin:
I stumbled on something using polyspan that addresses the issue of the tiny pin holes and weave separation after shrinking. Only shrink it slightly over the sheeted areas first then give it a full-strength coat of dope. While the dope is still plastic use the heat gun to fully shrink it. No pin holes and it is ready for a light sanding and base color after three coats of clear. It also works on fully open structures, just shrink it enough to smooth it out before the dope.
Ken
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Hmm, seems we have a debate here, silkspan on a beamer or polyspan? I've never used polyspan but I remember a article in FM that stated it used less dope to seal than silkspan and thus it was the same weight or lighter. True? False?
Kevin, I forgot about John I'll give him a try but I'll also need Stix-it.
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Jon also has stix it. I used Light coat on both the P40 and the Argus to attach the polyspan, but whatever works for you. As far as Polyspan taking less dope to fill, I found that not to be true.
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Ken thanks for the tip. I will be using Polyspan on my vector 40 wing soon, and I am hoping it will remove a slight bow on the TE.
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Ken thanks for the tip. I will be using Polyspan on my vector 40 wing soon, and I am hoping it will remove a slight bow on the TE.
Bows are really tough. I had one on my Trifecta profile and had to resort to extreme measures to get it out. I removed the covering over the center of the bow on the underside (local judges never look there!) and wet, not soaked, just wet the entire structure using a spray bottle to get everything wet. Set it on blocks and hung a 5lb weight at the apex of the bow. Used heat to get it to relax and let me bend it and the weight hold it till it dried. It worked and the bow was gone when it dried and never came back.
Ken
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Weather starting to warm up a bit so I got outside and covered the fuse and tail, wings next. #^
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Nice!
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Got the wings covered now, first time I've covered a beamer and I have to say I done good. y1 #^ ~>
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gee guys, if you want no pin holes in your silk span or poly-span cover the the wings, tai and surfaces with a clear mylar film. check out the finish section on this forum. D>K
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Cockpit canopy time. ;D
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Got the base colour on, it's supposed to be purple but looks more blue..lol
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Hmm, seems we have a debate here, silkspan on a beamer or polyspan? I've never used polyspan but I remember a article in FM that stated it used less dope to seal than silkspan and thus it was the same weight or lighter. True? False?
Kevin, I forgot about John I'll give him a try but I'll also need Stix-it.
You have already made YOUR decision. Having used all FOUR (silkspan, Polyspan, Monokote, and silk), I only use SILK on models that I care about.
Sure, I might iron-on a combat or carrier plane, but for stunt or scale, it's silk and only silk. I Polyspaned some racers years ago and there's still flying OK. Polyspan is a chore to bend over wingtips and other small radii. Silk will take ANY shape without complaint.
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You have already made YOUR decision. Having used all FOUR (silkspan, Polyspan, Monokote, and silk), I only use SILK on models that I care about.
Sure, I might iron-on a combat or carrier plane, but for stunt or scale, it's silk and only silk. I Polyspaned some racers years ago and there's still flying OK. Polyspan is a chore to bend over wingtips and other small radii. Silk will take ANY shape without complaint.
Hi Paul, I've seen your work in Toronto, didn't know they were silk, very nice work.
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Hello,
I am in the process of building an Ares as well and I was hoping you may answer a few questions for me. On the plans it says slightly off set the motor to the outboard side. What is slightly, is that like a hair or smidge. I would think at least a 1/16?
What is a good finish weight? I was shooting for 40 oz using Klass Kote epoxy for the paint.
I appreciate your assistance
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Out side off set of 2 degrees tops. Any more than that and you will never get it trimmed..Do NOT put in any rudder offset. H^^ It does not take much. The trouble with rudder off set is when you need it it's not there, and when you don't need it, it's there in other words it works at highs speeds when centripital force is doing the job of keeping the lines tight.
Engine off set is so there is NO inside offset and only helps in the over heads.
The Ares will fly much better at weights under 40 ounces, I'd aim for 36. I have built over 12 I beamers and they fly light.
36 might be difficult, I’m at 30ozs build finished and motor in. No wheel pants dope, paint, clear or silks pan
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Well I'll be I forgot to post finished pics, my bad. Finished weight came in at 39 oz. and the Merco 40 runs better than I could of hoped, a perfect 4 2 4 and a growl that has to be heard. The plane groves wonderfully, turns on a dime, the only thing I might change is the decal, I don't like it I might remove it and paint the name and add my maac numbers but other than that I'm very happy, thanks for all the comments. y1
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Well I'll be I forgot to post finished pics, my bad. Finished weight came in at 39 oz. and the Merco 40 runs better than I could of hoped, a perfect 4 2 4 and a growl that has to be heard. The plane groves wonderfully, turns on a dime, the only thing I might change is the decal, I don't like it I might remove it and paint the name and add my maac numbers but other than that I'm very happy, thanks for all the comments. y1
Did you have to do anything to the motor? I'm using a brodak 40 just like the plans, thrust washer,3/4 extension spinner but the threaded shaft is not long enough to get a prop on. Does this have to be modified or am I doing something wrong?
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Did you have to do anything to the motor? I'm using a brodak 40 just like the plans, thrust washer,3/4 extension spinner but the threaded shaft is not long enough to get a prop on. Does this have to be modified or am I doing something wrong?
What prop extension are you using? It should have a long nut that requires you to drill the prop hole bigger.
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What prop extension are you using? It should have a long nut that requires you to drill the prop hole bigger.
That’s exactly what the problem is, I have the wrong prop nut. Thank you for the pic. Much appreciated
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Dwayne, what did you use for control horns on the Ares? Did you use the straight horns that came with the kit, or did you replace them with offset horns that they talk about in the detailed notes on the plan? And did you sue ball joints or classic pushrod ends, into those horns?
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Dwayne, what did you use for control horns on the Ares? Did you use the straight horns that came with the kit, or did you replace them with offset horns that they talk about in the detailed notes on the plan? And did you sue ball joints or classic pushrod ends, into those horns?
Pm sent and to add I used classic music wire pushed rod with bent soldered ends.
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The bend-forward flap line of the Ares always bothers me. If built rigid the flaps would be locked.
There needs to be slack someplace in the system. Is that not a wear issue?
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Bob Hunt uses the raked trailing edge in his twin electric designs. with no problems. It has flight characteristic advantages.
You might want to send him an email and he can explain how to do it without binding up the control system.
If you look at the Yatsenko Shark control system and how they attach the flap to the control horn, you would be even more alarmed.
Yet it works, and those airplanes are world class performers