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Building Tips and technical articles. => Building techniques => Topic started by: RC Storick on February 18, 2007, 07:00:18 AM
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Here is a shot of the Meteor fuse underway. 7 inches accross.
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Bob:
I missed previous notes. Is that the wing in background to right?
Jim
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yes. 60 -61 inch span 1 inch forward sweep in the TE.
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One of the biggest reasons I did this build was to show how you can build anything you can see. These airplanes are just a store mannequin. You have a set of basic numbers that will work. The clothes you hang on those numbers are up to you. You are only limited by your imagination. You do not need to work off plans just numbers and your brain.
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Sparky, you are so right about imagination and visualizing your goals.
Here are some construction photos of a Golden Age Racing Laird-Turner Meteor Special. Scale "Coke Bottle" fuselage with 60 stringers behind trailing edge. 36 inch span and 5.5 inch fuselage cross section. Rossi .40 power.
Clayton Smith
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Very nice. This must be a scale plane. Mine will not be that scale like as is has to fly the pattern and I don't think I could make those numbers work.
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Do you have a picture of the full scale model of this plane Sparky? I'd like to see where you're going here.
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Here is a shot
(http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=4061.0;attach=8736;image)
For more photo's look here http://oldbeacon.com/plans/resource4/laird-turner_ltr-14_meteor.htm
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Nice subject.............I'll be clicking on often. Thankyou
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Formers made. I will now move onto mold bucks.
(http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=4061.0;attach=8732;image)
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I know you're busy.............but, how did you go about determining the shape, size and location of the formers?
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I know you're busy.............but, how did you go about determining the shape, size and location of the formers?
I use the tried and tested method of TLAR (That Looks About Right) I laid it out on paper to get the Center line and then added my numbers. Got a compass and determined how fat the fuse would have to be to hide the engine and pipe with the TL still in the center. I then laid out the fuse sides and set the first 3 formers. The rest is done in the TLAR method. I hope this helps.
In the videos I will explain a little on how this works. Just like when I did my S6B I am tired of building the same old plane everyone has. So why not design something new?
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Gotta love fat boy fuselages.
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I get it............
Take a pic of each step please.
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One of the biggest reasons I did this build was to show how you can build anything you can see. These airplanes are just a store mannequin. You have a set of basic numbers that will work. The clothes you hang on those numbers are up to you. You are only limited by your imagination. You do not need to work off plans just numbers and your brain.
Right on Robert! Seems you have the same philosophy as "Big Daddy" Ed Roth!!
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Very nice. This must be a scale plane. Mine will not be that scale like as is has to fly the pattern and I don't think I could make those numbers work.
Hi Robert,
We all admire, and envy, your beautiful, and fast work. That will be one very impressive CL plane when you set it down in the front row at a contest! :-)
Have you considered using a radial engine to help make the numbers work? Saito makes a nice 3 cylinder that may provide the nose weight you need. The power may not be enough to make up for it's weight, but it sure would sound sweet! And more "cu. in." is almost always better than lead in the nose! ;-)
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=SAIE090R3
By the time you add up the wt. of your big engine, + header+ pipe+ extra 2 stroke fuel, the radial should only be about 6 oz more?? But it would all be up front, on that big, beautiful, round, short nose.
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Hi Robert,
We all admire, and envy, your beautiful, and fast work. That will be one very impressive CL plane when you set it down in the front row at a contest! :-)
Have you considered using a radial engine to help make the numbers work? Saito makes a nice 3 cylinder that may provide the nose weight you need. The power may not be enough to make up for it's weight, but it sure would sound sweet! And more "cu. in." is almost always better than lead in the nose! ;-)
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=SAIE090R3
By the time you add up the wt. of your big engine, + header+ pipe+ extra 2 stroke fuel, the radial should only be about 6 oz more?? But it would all be up front, on that big, beautiful, round, short nose.
I will not need extra weight in the nose. As you see in the next photo I am lightining the fuse every way I can. I will apply skin and sand the outside then remove the skin and sand the inside to a even 1/32 or less, all the way around.
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Well, looks at this way. There will be plenty of room for a tank.
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Hi Robert,
We all admire, and envy, your beautiful, and fast work. That will be one very impressive CL plane when you set it down in the front row at a contest! :-)
Have you considered using a radial engine to help make the numbers work? Saito makes a nice 3 cylinder that may provide the nose weight you need. The power may not be enough to make up for it's weight, but it sure would sound sweet! And more "cu. in." is almost always better than lead in the nose! ;-)
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=SAIE090R3
By the time you add up the wt. of your big engine, + header+ pipe+ extra 2 stroke fuel, the radial should only be about 6 oz more?? But it would all be up front, on that big, beautiful, round, short nose.
LOL Rudy
You may want to look at the specs .....
Bore: 20mm (0.78 in)
Stroke: 16.0mm (0.63 in)
Cylinders: Three
Engine (Only) Weight: 29.98 oz
That is a 30 ounce engine bare that is 18 ounces more than a 75,,Robert would need about a 1\2 pound of lead in the tail for that beast #^ #^ #^ #^ #^ LL~ LL~ LL~
Randy LL~
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LOL Rudy
You may want to look at the specs .....
Bore: 20mm (0.78 in)
Stroke: 16.0mm (0.63 in)
Cylinders: Three
Engine (Only) Weight: 29.98 oz
That is a 30 ounce engine bare that is 18 ounces more than a 75,,Robert would need about a 1\2 pound of lead in the tail for that beast #^ #^ #^ #^ #^ LL~ LL~ LL~
Randy LL~
It's not to late to shorten the nose!!!!! ;D
Robert this is a great project! What do you think it will do in the wind with all that side area? Do I see a 2007 NATS entry??? ;) The wind has been light and predictable in the past few years....... LL~
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It's not to late to shorten the nose!!!!! ;D
Robert this is a great project! What do you think it will do in the wind with all that side area? Do I see a 2007 NATS entry??? ;) The wind has been light and predictable in the past few years....... LL~
Mike, and Randy,
Yes, there was a bit of tongue in my cheek, and wishful thinking as well. ;-)
Randy, you were supposed to say: "it weighs ONLY 30 oz." :-)
I think it would still balance OK with the scale short nose, BUT it is very hard to match the power to weight ratio of one of Randy's big 2 stroke engines on a pipe. .... Maybe using 60% Nitro for "one" cool sounding flight might work? LL~
I like Radial engines. They sound good, and look like an engine should look. I was very lucky as a young pilot to get a few thousand hours in round motor planes, just before they all disappeared from commercial flight, and we were forced to fly boring jets.
I try to put in the ;-) to show that I may be kidding, and I hope people understand this. I guess you guys did. ..... I'm glad I was able to provide a LOL for Sparky's readers. **)
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You're working on the bucks, right Sparky?
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What a great project, saw it at Oshkosh couple years ago very impressive plane. A piece of the Golden Age of Racing.
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Really neat Robert; I bet it won't fly any different than a skinny fuse. I built a scale Spinks Acromaster R/C one time that had a 6" wide fuse. I thought it would be very draggy, but that thing seemed to have less drag than some of my skinny planes.
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Where's the "Big Momma"?? Withdrawals here, haven't seen anything new in a while......... you got the flu, Sparky?? **)
Bill <><
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Bill, I imagine those molding bucks are taking a bit of time. :)