Author Topic: I beam wings (Read 5264 times)

Gary Anderson · « **on:** February 21, 2008, 09:10:59 PM »

Hi guys,
I was wondering if it took less wood to build a I beam wing rather than a D tube type wing? I have never built a I beam wing. It looks like it could be a lot of fun and I like the way they taper towards the wing tips. I have the DVD on the I beam wing and Bill explains how to build this type wing. Even if you're not going to build any type wing, I would recommend watching this DVD just to get an idea how much work can go into building our toys. I have Windy's tape on building the nobler and I still watch it just to get an idea how much work these great builders go to. They deserve every point that they get and more; the time and the talent is unbelieveable. Would appreciate any input. Thank you, Gary

Bob Zambelli · « **Reply #1 on:** February 22, 2008, 06:29:19 AM »

Hi, Gary - don't be intimidated by I-Beam wings.

Once you get the hang of it, building them is a remarkably easy process.

In my opinion, some of the most beautiful stunt planes ever created - Argus, Strathmoore, Atom, etc, were I-Beam and they just seem to have a classic beauty.

I enjoy the building so much that I have even reconfigured some of my OTS planes to I-Beam and with a clear dope/silk covering, they are stunning.

Bob Z.

Randy Powell · « **Reply #2 on:** February 22, 2008, 09:12:33 AM »

Gary,

Tough to tell if there is "less wood". No sheeting, but a lot more ribs. An I-beam probably has less wood, but it would be a close thing.

Bill Little · « **Reply #3 on:** February 22, 2008, 09:26:33 AM »

I would say that there is less wood, overall. But there is no 1/16th wood, usually. Depending on the plane, the strip ribs were 3/32nd" or (usually) 1/8th"

It is the fastest building, overall, style of construction I think. Unless you buy a fully sheeted foam wing or like set up. There has been three guys spend the night at my house and leave with a fully framed up, straight, USA-1 (BIG I-BEAM!!!!!!) in less than 48 hours. Not bad I'd say........

RC Storick · « **Reply #4 on:** February 22, 2008, 10:17:25 AM »

When I get ready to build my USA 1 I think I will come to your house and spend the week. LMAO

Bill Little · « **Reply #5 on:** February 22, 2008, 11:15:16 AM »

Quote from: Robert Storick on February 22, 2008, 10:17:25 AM

When I get ready to build my USA 1 I think I will come to your house and spend the week. LMAO

We've already discussed that! Just bring the wood...... and let me warn the wife first,,,,,,

john e. holliday · « **Reply #6 on:** February 22, 2008, 04:50:05 PM »

In my experience with the few I-Beams I have built it takes about a third of the wood for the ribs. The big deal is the fuse is built first and becomes part of the jig. DOC Holliday

Gary Anderson · « **Reply #7 on:** February 22, 2008, 08:16:49 PM »

Hi guys,

I've thinking that maybe you could use more wood with the I-beam wing? I believe most I-beam wings you use 1/8 balsa for the ribs plus I believe you have maybe twice as many ribs. Bill uses internal braces for the ribs, if you add up board feet, seems like it would be close. When you cut out I-beam ribs wouldn't you buy wide material because of the curves of the ribs? I guess you would plot the use of your balsa wood to minimize the wood lost. I'm sorry for all the question, just trying to figure out which is the best wing for my next toy. Seems like fun to build the jig to cut out the ribs. I've noticed several have set their I-beam ribs on a angle, seems like a lot of open space to cover. Appreciate all your help, Gary

Randy Powell · « **Reply #8 on:** February 22, 2008, 09:12:47 PM »

Gary,

An I beam probably uses less sheet lumber to cut out the ribs. The reason is, you slice the ribs off in series. I posted a pic of a rib cutting jig in this section that you might take a look at. This is the same sort of unit you use to cut stip ribs for an I beam.

Gary Anderson · « **Reply #9 on:** February 23, 2008, 12:23:51 AM »

Quote from: Ty Marcucci on February 22, 2008, 11:34:54 PM

Last Monday I finished cutting out 180 (that's right 180) I beam ribs. I used less than 1/3 the wood for the same ribs in a conventional ribbed wing. So, they use less wood. At least all mine do. Never a failure in flight.
Granted some of those ribs are for two wings, still less than an equal span C tube or D tube wing.

Also I do not use 4-6 pound stuff for the ribs, more like the 5-7 pound stuff or even a tad heavier. They are brittle or fragile until covered. Then they are very, very strong and light.

I prefer these wings to others. They can be habit forming.

Hi Ty, what is the thickness of your I beams ribs? Are they 1/8 wide x 1/4 thick? Most C and D tube wing are 1/16 wide, isn't there about half the amount of ribs in the C and D tube wing? If you cut the I beams ribs in two and add this amount of wood to the width of the rib, how much wood do you real have compared to the C and D tube ribs? Keep in mind that there is twice as many I beam ribs. I'm sure you're right, just can't get it out of head that you have a lot more wood there than you think. Do you use wide pieces of balsa wood?(1/8x6,8,10?x36?) Of coarse I'm dumb as a rock, so that explains why I'm thinking this way. Thanks for your in put and I hope I can get this figured out before I go crazy. I don't know why I even bring it up, I'm going to build the I beam wing. Just having fun, Gary

john e. holliday · « **Reply #10 on:** February 23, 2008, 08:32:45 AM »

As Ty stated use wide sheets of wood cut to length of ribs. I glue up sheets to make them at least 6 inches wide before cutting ribs. As you move out to the tips the ribs get shorter as they are cut to length at the trailing edge. I like the way one of the guys sets his ribs in a geodetic fashion similar to the lost foam construction. Also if you search on the other forum, maybe even here, you will see what is called the Lincoln Log method. You have to build the leading edge and trailing edge. Then spars are inset into ribs like regular ribs, but, ribs are cut like I-Beam ribs. I don't like it as each rib is cut as you go taking rib pattern and making top plus bottom of the individual rib. There are many ways of building wings and they all work. DOC Holliday

Gary Anderson · « **Reply #11 on:** February 23, 2008, 10:29:58 AM »

Hi guys,

I agree there is more wasted wood cutting out C tube ribs. I believe actual wood in the wing is very close. If you purchase the material correctly it can help cut down on waste. The wider the piece, doesn't the cost go higher? Can sheets be glued together to give the width needed? If this is the case you have a continuous cutting procedure when cutting I beam ribs. Is there a difference is weight between the two wings? I have a lot of C tube wings and they are very light. Most of the C tube ribs are hollowed out, there isn't much wood used with these ribs. I believe the I beam wing is a lot stronger wing and can be build easier and faster. I believe the thinner the wood more chances of getting warps. I build my C tube wings on a jig, once I get all the parts cut out and marked, it takes very little time to build it. I noticed Bill cutting the ribs the same way I cut cap strips. Both wings are great, I guess its just the wing you want to have. I appreciate all the in put, love my toys, Gary

Bill Little · « **Reply #12 on:** February 23, 2008, 03:25:14 PM »

Quote from: Gary Anderson on February 23, 2008, 10:29:58 AM

Hi guys,

I agree there is more wasted wood cutting out C tube ribs. I believe actual wood in the wing is very close. If you purchase the material correctly it can help cut down on waste. The wider the piece, doesn't the cost go higher? Can sheets be glued together to give the width needed? If this is the case you have a continuous cutting procedure when cutting I beam ribs. Is there a difference is weight between the two wings? I have a lot of C tube wings and they are very light. Most of the C tube ribs are hollowed out, there isn't much wood used with these ribs. I believe the I beam wing is a lot stronger wing and can be build easier and faster. I believe the thinner the wood more chances of getting warps. I build my C tube wings on a jig, once I get all the parts cut out and marked, it takes very little time to build it. I noticed Bill cutting the ribs the same way I cut cap strips. Both wings are great, I guess its just the wing you want to have. I appreciate all the in put, love my toys, Gary

HI Gary,

I cannot understand you repeating the *width* part......... ?? ?? ??

the ribs are cut *with the grain* so the only thing is how many ribs you get out of 3" wide versus 4" wide. At roughly 1/4" I don't really worry about what width the sheet is. And there is usually a piece left over since the rib blanks that are cut to length before *slicing* are usually in the 10" or so length. So if I cut three 10" pieces to make ribs from, there is a roughly 6" piece left from a 36" piece of wood. I can't buy 30" pieces around here! LOL!!!! I have built a bunch of I-Beam model, and I *am pretty sure* I use less than (3) pieces of 1/8X3X36 most of the time to make ribs for a Classic 35 size model.

Gary Anderson · « **Reply #13 on:** February 23, 2008, 05:36:10 PM »

Hi Bill,

If you use three sheet of 1/8" x 3" x 36" to make the ribs for your I beam wing; Would that mean I could use six sheets of 1/16" x 3" x 36" to make ribs for my C tube wing? Basically I'm talking about weight factors and total wood use. My thinking, you would be using the same amount of wood to do the same project. On some C tube wing there isn't a leading edge, its a molded sheet. I like the looks of the I beam wing but I don't see where there would be much weight different. I was asking if anyone has glued the wood and continued to make I beam wings. The six inches you have left over, couldn't you make the short ribs from this material? I'm asking these dumb question because I have never built an I beam wing. I have the DVD showing how its done and I can see where its a great wing, quick, easy and why it would stand a chance of being a good straight strong wing. I appreciate your in put and thank you, Gary

Bill Little · « **Reply #14 on:** February 23, 2008, 06:28:59 PM »

Hi Gary,

Yes, the left overs, if long enough, are used for the half ribs if the plane has them. (some I-beamers don't!

)

I thought about it and I would guess that an Ares might not take over two sheets, maybe, of 1/8X3X36. I have never really kept track, but Aaron and I recently cut enough ribs for two '62 Ares. I don't know if he remembers how many sheets that was or not. Equal amounts of wood?? I have no clue!

I can build a straight I-Beam model faster than any other type of built up fuselage plane, though. And weight is as much (probably more!) a factor of wood selection, fits, types of glues, etc., versus the *amount* of wood.....

Jim Thomerson · « **Reply #15 on:** February 23, 2008, 07:47:12 PM »

Two or three comments. While slicing I-beam ribs, when I get to the bottom of the piece, I take that and CYA it to the top of the next piece. No waste wood except for the last piece sliced off the bottom of the last rib cut. Good advice to use a little heavier wood. I did one with 4-6 lb wood and spent more time repairing installed ribs broken from clumsiness than I did in installing new ribs.

I have had good results going from an I beam to a box spar using the same amount of wood. More rigid torsionally than an I-beam.

Gary Anderson · « **Reply #16 on:** February 25, 2008, 07:12:19 PM »

Quote from: Bill Little on February 23, 2008, 06:28:59 PM

Hi Gary,

Yes, the left overs, if long enough, are used for the half ribs if the plane has them. (some I-beamers don't! )

I thought about it and I would guess that an Ares might not take over two sheets, maybe, of 1/8X3X36. I have never really kept track, but Aaron and I recently cut enough ribs for two '62 Ares. I don't know if he remembers how many sheets that was or not. Equal amounts of wood?? I have no clue!

I can build a straight I-Beam model faster than any other type of built up fuselage plane, though. And weight is as much (probably more!) a factor of wood selection, fits, types of glues, etc., versus the *amount* of wood.....

Hi Bill, I was looking at the Ares cut out print, it shows several of the ribs between 1/16" balsa wood. I watched Bill video and it seemed to me that the ribs are made out of 1/8" material. I have never built a I beam wing, I'm not sure if making ribs out of 1/16" material will work. I believe the 59 ares has a wing thickness of two inches. Would it be better to make the airfoil larger, maybe 2 1/4"? I would appreciate any input, thank you Gary

Bill Little · « **Reply #17 on:** February 25, 2008, 08:52:27 PM »

Hi Gary,

If there is a call out for any 1/16th" *ribs or half ribs* you got a bogus set of plans. The only 1/16th" wood in the wing of Billy's '59 Ares is the rear support spar. I have built 4 or 5.

All the *ribs* are cut from 1/8th".

I have seen some of Jack Sheeks' I-Beams and Steve Wooley's Cobra use 3/32nd" ribs material, but they usually have more ribs, total, or no *1/2 ribs*.

Gary Anderson · « **Reply #18 on:** February 25, 2008, 10:03:08 PM »

Quote from: Bill Little on February 25, 2008, 08:52:27 PM

Hi Gary,

If there is a call out for any 1/16th" *ribs or half ribs* you got a bogus set of plans. The only 1/16th" wood in the wing of Billy's '59 Ares is the rear support spar. I have built 4 or 5.

All the *ribs* are cut from 1/8th".

I have seen some of Jack Sheeks' I-Beams and Steve Wooley's Cobra use 3/32nd" ribs material, but they usually have more ribs, total, or no *1/2 ribs*.

Hi Bill,

I agree, I believe there is a error on these prints. The print is the Nostalgia Series-Brodak-59 Ares-autocad by John Miller-Kit CLP-62. It shows short ribs 1/16" balsa, Long ribs 1/16" balsa 3 req'd, root ribs 1/4". I guess I could be reading the print incorrectly? The main print states that the ribs are made out of 1/8". It doesn't show any 1/4" ribs? The plans show two inch airfold, wouldn't 2 1/4" be better? Thank you for your help, Gary

John Miller · « **Reply #19 on:** February 26, 2008, 11:41:25 AM »

Gary, your post above made me go check my master CAD file for the '59 Ares. I see no call outs for less than 1/8" ribs. Where exactly are you seeing a call out for 1/16" ribs?

John Miller

Edit: OK Gary, Looking at your wording made me check another file, the Master laser cutting file. There is indeed an error on the call out to the laser cutter for the size of wood to use to cut the strip ribs. This error was apparently caught when they kitted the plane, as I've not heard of anyone complaigning about the wrong sized strip ribs.

I'm curious, How did you get a copy of the laser cutters sheet?

wmiii · « **Reply #20 on:** February 26, 2008, 11:52:53 AM »

Gary, if you made the ribs 2 1/4" thick, then it wouldn't be a 59 Ares.

Walter

Bill Little · « **Reply #21 on:** February 26, 2008, 12:17:23 PM »

Quote from: Gary Anderson on February 25, 2008, 10:03:08 PM

Hi Bill,

I agree, I believe there is a error on these prints. The print is the Nostalgia Series-Brodak-59 Ares-autocad by John Miller-Kit CLP-62. It shows short ribs 1/16" balsa, Long ribs 1/16" balsa 3 req'd, root ribs 1/4". I guess I could be reading the print incorrectly? The main print states that the ribs are made out of 1/8". It doesn't show any 1/4" ribs? The plans show two inch airfold, wouldn't 2 1/4" be better? Thank you for your help, Gary

Hi Gary,

If you want thicker wing, get a set of the '62 Ares plans. It would be a ton easier than changing the '59 Wing to a different airfoil, especially if you have no experience in I-Beam builds. The '62 looks amazingly like the '59 but it is slightly bigger all around.

The Super Ares looks very little like the '59 to me........ and it quite a large plane.

Gary Anderson · « **Reply #22 on:** February 26, 2008, 02:13:15 PM »

Quote from: John Miller on February 26, 2008, 11:41:25 AM

Gary, your post above made me go check my master CAD file for the '59 Ares. I see no call outs for less than 1/8" ribs. Where exactly are you seeing a call out for 1/16" ribs?

John Miller

Edit: OK Gary, Looking at your wording made me check another file, the Master laser cutting file. There is indeed an error on the call out to the laser cutter for the size of wood to use to cut the strip ribs. This error was apparently caught when they kitted the plane, as I've not heard of anyone complaigning about the wrong sized strip ribs.

I'm curious, How did you get a copy of the laser cutters sheet?

Hi John,
I apologize, I just reading off of the pattern print. My son order the prints from Brodak, he purchased the two prints of the 59 ares, the 59 ares pattern print and the booklet. I noticed the different between the 59 ares print and the pattern print. I wasn't sure about the sizes is why I brought it up to Bill. I hope the kits are correct, I'm trying to talk my wife into buying me this kit, Ha Ha. Don't know why I would buy one, I don't follow the prints, alway change something. I just can't seem to help myself, get to looking at something great then have to make a mess, Ha Ha. My Stiletto I couldn't leave her alone. Made a set of ribs the old fashion way (make tip and root ribs and sand to match) installed ribs on computer using wing master program and resized each rib at the spacing I wanted to use. Hey! I bet the rest of you guys don't do stuff like this. Its fun changing things and everyone else thinks your plane is like theirs. Thanks Bill, I'll look into getting the 62 print, Just having fun, Gary

Bill Little · « **Reply #23 on:** February 27, 2008, 11:25:22 AM »

Hi Gary,

A word of caution. Messing around with I-Beams can cause considerable heart ache!

My son, Aaron, and I have both flown '59 Ares in competition. In my case a couple! LOL!!

We both recently cut out the parts (short kit) to make 'matching (sorta) '62 Ares for Classic. It will probably be 2009 before we get them ready, though.

The '62 is a much more *modern* layout. But Billy could not get it to fly like he wanted with the engines available at the time.

Bill Little · « **Reply #24 on:** February 27, 2008, 11:26:46 AM »

Quote from: Bill Little on February 27, 2008, 11:25:22 AM

Hi Gary,

A word of caution. Messing around with I-Beams can cause considerable heart ache!

My son, Aaron, and I have both flown '59 Ares in competition. In my case a couple! LOL!!

We both recently cut out the parts (short kit) to make 'matching (sorta) '62 Ares for Classic. It will probably be 2009 before we get them ready, though.

The '62 is a much more *modern* layout. But Billy could not get it to fly like he wanted with the engines available at the time.

We will be using Aero Tiger .36s which I feel are the best engines for these planes. (of course, I DO NOT HAVE A PA 40UL!)

John Miller · « **Reply #25 on:** February 27, 2008, 01:40:39 PM »

Gary, I'll jump in here to also make the suggestion that you somehow convince your wife that you absolutely need an Ares kit.

A lot of work went into making the Brodak Ares kit into what I believe is the best I-Beam kit available today, despite the little error you found on the cutters sheet,,,

If you can constrain yourself to build it as it's designed, and keep control of the weight, you will have your own copy of one of the most beautiful classic stunters ever. Power it right, and some practise, and you'll be able to hold your head up in any group in competition.

A slight aside, just so you know, it was never intended to make the cutters sheet available. There is a separate pattern sheet available for scratch builders. But, It's Brodak's show, so they can do what they want. I'm happy that you posted your question because it's fixed, at least on my copy of the digital file.

Gary Anderson · « **Reply #26 on:** February 27, 2008, 02:01:59 PM »

Thanks guys,

I showed my wife your remarks, I think she's still laughing. She told me I shouldn't have a problem buying a kit, she said, all you have to do is sell some of this junk and you probably could buy two kits. I looked at all my junk, fell in love again, so I guess I'll have to wait till I get rich, Ha Ha. Really I'm going to get a Ares Kit and I'll buy it from Joe, he's really nice to deal with. I have a ST 46 that needs a home or maybe a K&B 40, OS 46, ST G21 35? I really like the sound of the ST 46, maybe to much motor for the Ares? I'm using a OS 40 FP in my old nobler and it pulls it very well. Is the Ares as lite as the nobler? Thanks again, Gary

Bill Little · « **Reply #27 on:** February 28, 2008, 07:16:19 AM »

Quote from: Gary Anderson on February 27, 2008, 02:01:59 PM

Thanks guys,

I showed my wife your remarks, I think she's still laughing. She told me I shouldn't have a problem buying a kit, she said, all you have to do is sell some of this junk and you probably could buy two kits. I looked at all my junk, fell in love again, so I guess I'll have to wait till I get rich, Ha Ha. Really I'm going to get a Ares Kit and I'll buy it from Joe, he's really nice to deal with. I have a ST 46 that needs a home or maybe a K&B 40, OS 46, ST G21 35? I really like the sound of the ST 46, maybe to much motor for the Ares? I'm using a OS 40 FP in my old nobler and it pulls it very well. Is the Ares as lite as the nobler? Thanks again, Gary

Billy HAS used a ST G29/46 in his Ares at one time (a VSC or NATS, or BOTH??) but getting a tank and prop to work is the major hang up. Maybe the LA 46, since it seems to drink less fuel, but the prop issue is still there.

An OS FP 40 will be plenty of power as long as you don't use lead paint! LOL!! These planes were originally (and sometimes STILL!) powered by Fox 35s. Use as light an engine as you can, and remember that the new engines will not need the prop extension that the Fox did.

MikeyPratt · « **Reply #28 on:** February 28, 2008, 10:25:58 AM »

Quote from: Gary Anderson on February 23, 2008, 10:29:58 AM

Hi guys,

I agree there is more wasted wood cutting out C tube ribs. I believe actual wood in the wing is very close. If you purchase the material correctly it can help cut down on waste. The wider the piece, doesn't the cost go higher? Can sheets be glued together to give the width needed? If this is the case you have a continuous cutting procedure when cutting I beam ribs. Is there a difference is weight between the two wings? I have a lot of C tube wings and they are very light. Most of the C tube ribs are hollowed out, there isn't much wood used with these ribs. I believe the I beam wing is a lot stronger wing and can be build easier and faster. I believe the thinner the wood more chances of getting warps. I build my C tube wings on a jig, once I get all the parts cut out and marked, it takes very little time to build it. I noticed Bill cutting the ribs the same way I cut cap strips. Both wings are great, I guess its just the wing you want to have. I appreciate all the in put, love my toys, Gary

Hi Gary,
Don't listen to all of these old farts..lol I-beams wings build very fast and are always lighter than the D or C tube wings. So don't get hung up on the little stuff and go build it. FYI: I must have built twenty five or more I-Beam models and they all came out just fine. Following Billy's video is the way to go and use the C/F strips as he suggests. Also as a building tip, cut the ribs slightly thicker at 5/16" to give you some sanding room. After the wing ribs are installed, I mark the tops of the ribs with colored chalk and then sand the top of the ribs with a long sanding block until the chalk has been remover and all the ribs are equal heights.

The first three Magnums were all I-Beam models and ranged in size from 675 to 710 sq. inches. How many remember the big yellow one at the Chickopee Nat's???

Later,

Mikey

Bill Little · « **Reply #29 on:** February 28, 2008, 11:46:07 AM »

Brother Mikey,

That's what we have been trying to tell him!

Randy Powell · « **Reply #30 on:** February 28, 2008, 01:59:20 PM »

The first I-Beam plane I built was a Jack Sheeks Knight (right after it was published). I got the plans from my cousin, an incurable plans collector. I thought it would take forever with all those ribs, but truth was, it was pretty easy. Much easier to keep the wing straight in the building process.

Bill Little · « **Reply #31 on:** February 28, 2008, 05:14:24 PM »

Quote from: Randy Powell on February 28, 2008, 01:59:20 PM

The first I-Beam plane I built was a Jack Sheeks Knight (right after it was published). I got the plans from my cousin, an incurable plans collector. I thought it would take forever with all those ribs, but truth was, it was pretty easy. Much easier to keep the wing straight in the building process.

Absolutely, and you are still building a *semi I-Beam*, sorta............

Randy Powell · « **Reply #32 on:** February 28, 2008, 09:13:25 PM »

Bill,

Yea, but I mostly hide them now.

Bill Little · « **Reply #33 on:** February 28, 2008, 09:44:07 PM »

Quote from: Randy Powell on February 28, 2008, 09:13:25 PM

Bill,

Yea, but I mostly hide them now.

When is that transparent/translucent finish going to show up?? Your woodwork would be perfect for it.

Randy Powell · « **Reply #34 on:** February 28, 2008, 09:54:37 PM »

Who knows? Eventually, I imagine. But not the current classic plane. I have planes for it. Including a real canopy. WooHoo!!

Randy Powell · « **Reply #35 on:** February 29, 2008, 09:59:24 AM »

Ty,

I was like 16. It's been a very long time. All I remember is it was powered with an Enya 35, probably a Top Flite prop (likely a 10x6) and that my cousin helped with the elevator hookup. And that we used a bicycle spoke setup, but it's been a very long time. I plan to build another eventually. It's a cool plane.

Gary Anderson · « **Reply #36 on:** March 03, 2008, 09:13:35 AM »

Quote from: Bill Little on February 23, 2008, 06:28:59 PM

Hi Gary,

Yes, the left overs, if long enough, are used for the half ribs if the plane has them. (some I-beamers don't! )

I thought about it and I would guess that an Ares might not take over two sheets, maybe, of 1/8X3X36. I have never really kept track, but Aaron and I recently cut enough ribs for two '62 Ares. I don't know if he remembers how many sheets that was or not. Equal amounts of wood?? I have no clue!

I can build a straight I-Beam model faster than any other type of built up fuselage plane, though. And weight is as much (probably more!) a factor of wood selection, fits, types of glues, etc., versus the *amount* of wood.....

Hi Bill,

I made a jig to cut the ribs for the 59 ares. On a piece of 1/8"x3"x36" I can cut 18 long ribs and 12 short ribs. I haven't tried gluing sheet together, is this the same amount of ribs you're getting out of a sheet? The curve of the rib makes for a lot of waste, not as much as regular ribs, of coarse, I'm probably doing the process wrong. Have a great day and appreciate your input, Gary

Bill Little · « **Reply #37 on:** March 04, 2008, 11:11:15 AM »

Quote from: Gary Anderson on March 03, 2008, 09:13:35 AM

Hi Bill,

I made a jig to cut the ribs for the 59 ares. On a piece of 1/8"x3"x36" I can cut 18 long ribs and 12 short ribs. I haven't tried gluing sheet together, is this the same amount of ribs you're getting out of a sheet? The curve of the rib makes for a lot of waste, not as much as regular ribs, of coarse, I'm probably doing the process wrong. Have a great day and appreciate your input, Gary

I usually get 24, or more, full length ribs from each full 1/8" X 3 X 36 sheet with the left over chunk used to cut 1/2 ribs. The bottom of the first rib is the top of the next rib, etc., ............