News:



  • June 19, 2025, 12:24:04 AM

Login with username, password and session length

« previous next »
Pages: [1]   Go Down

Author Topic: Bell Cranks  (Read 1630 times)

Offline Gerald Arana

  • 25 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 1580
Bell Cranks
« on: August 17, 2013, 08:17:56 PM »
I recently purchased a Tom Morris bellcrank (system) for an ARF Nobler. I'm turning it into a "Brock" Nobler.

What I want to know is: Is the 1/8" phenolic BC enough of a bearing surface without any reinforcement on the pivot point?

Personally, I think I should epoxy a couple 1/8" dia. supports to the top and bottom of the bellcrank.

What do you think?

Thank you in advance, Jerry
Logged

Offline RknRusty

  • 2019 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 2687
    • My Tube channel
Re: Bell Cranks
« Reply #1 on: August 18, 2013, 01:32:22 AM »
If I understand the question correctly, I wouldn't feel good about only having it held down to one platform. I would run the screw or shaft through a top platform, through the crank and then through the bottom platform. No reason not to. And I usually double the rib that takes most of the force of line pull, or glue in a brace to distribute the load.
Logged
DON'T PANIC!
Rusty Knowlton
... and never Ever think about how good you are at something...
while you're doing it!

Jackson Flyers Association (a.k.a. The Wildcat Rangers(C/L))- Fort Jackson, SC
Metrolina Control Line Society (MCLS) - Huntersville, NC - The Carolina Gang
Congaree Flyers - Gaston, SC -  http://www.congareeflyer.com
www.coxengineforum.com

Offline john e. holliday

  • 25 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 22974
Re: Bell Cranks
« Reply #2 on: August 18, 2013, 07:48:13 AM »
Did they forget to send the instructions on the mounting of the bell crank?   In all the ones I have/had the were brass eyelets to space the bell crank between the top and bottom mounts for the bell crank rod.   Leave enough on each end to put a groove in for a washer and wire wrapping to keep the rod in place.   I used the J-B Weld on my Spitfire and the rod slipped out after several dozen flights.  Never again as I also put ply plate over the end of the rods.
Logged
John E. "DOC" Holliday
10421 West 56th Terrace
Shawnee, KANSAS  66203
AMA 23530  Have fun as I have and I am still breaking a record.

Offline Gerald Arana

  • 25 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 1580
Re: Bell Cranks
« Reply #3 on: August 18, 2013, 09:43:59 AM »
RknRusty, No I didn't mean the mount in the wing. Got that covered with a ply plate top & bottom. (1/8" rod)

Doc, I got this set up second hand. It has instructions but it doesn't mention bell crank instructions. I thought it should have brass eyelets (or something) to keep it centered.

Thanks for the input, Jerry
Logged

Offline FLOYD CARTER

  • 24 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 4503
    • owner
Re: Bell Cranks
« Reply #4 on: August 18, 2013, 01:40:40 PM »
The thick phenolic bellcarnks I have used came with the pivot wire, brass eyelets all soldered in place.

Your "second hand" crank does seem like someone had taken it apart.  If you don't have brass eyelets, a couple of 6/32 nuts, drilled out and soldered in place will do just fine.

Floyd
Logged
91 years, but still going
AMA #796  SAM #188  LSF #020

Offline Gerald Arana

  • 25 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 1580
Re: Bell Cranks
« Reply #5 on: August 18, 2013, 03:00:12 PM »
Great idea! Thanks Floyd. %^@

Jerry
Logged

Advertise Here
Pages: [1]   Go Up
« previous next »
Tags: