I should state now that I omitted to tell everyone that this plane will be electric motor powered ( due only to the noise complaints which would otherwise surely eventuate ). I only left the front end as per the kit for now because I wanted the motor, battery, etc. placement to be done very last, with the entire rest of the airframe complete, to ensure the C of G is correct. Then I will cut the nose to length and make a motor mount. I converted my only other c.l. plane at the moment (an ARF Flite Streak) like this.
I like to paint everything after it is together, except for the flaps and elevators. If I paint those (not plastic covering), then I do them off the plane and they go on last. It means that there are no gaps in the paint for the fuel to get in, and it is easier. Also, if you put the hinges in after painting, you are less likely to have everything get stuck together in places things shouldn't be stuck together....
Dave, that makes a lot of sense. I especially like the hinges advantage you talk about after having spent two hours a few nights ago snipping out all the steel hinge pins ( DuBro nylon hinges ), gently reaming out the hinge pivot holes, scraping off epoxy, etc. after getting the epoxy everywhere on the first hinge fitting attempt ( and still I messed up the flap to wing gap...)
Ken, can you describe the blister you mention ? ( I will end up glo powering another model in future ). And the reason the pushrod exits so far forward is as you say - I did put a Z-bend in and my reasoning was that with a short vertical section of pushrod, I could keep the pushrod slot cut into the balsa sheeting as short as possible. I was thinking not so much about exhaust residue going in ( which is a great point with an engine installation ), but more from an aerodynamic consideration - keeping the wing as "closed-up" as possible. But since you have mentioned this, I am now thinking that maybe putting in the Z-bend makes no difference to the slot length ! It still seems to me though that the positions of the ends of the slot can be more easily defined with the vertical section in the pushrod ? Am I wrong ?
Tim, I am going to tape the hinge line and I would be amazed if the current set-up failed mechanically as the hinges are very well secured. I know it's not nice to look at, but I can't wait to fly asap. I won't make the same mistake again. I will try the Solarfilm on the tail feathers as you suggested because it seems it may be quicker to do and if that doesn't work out, I will paint them as per Dave's method. I will still paint the fuse though as it looks beyond me right now to try that with the film.
Thankyou all for your help !