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Building Tips and technical articles. => Building techniques => Topic started by: Larry Borden on February 18, 2015, 07:47:50 AM
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I'm building a Mackey ME 109 from scratch, other than a rib set from RSM. I'm using the Du-Bro heavy duty ball link on the flap horn. There is not enough room to put another ball link on the horn for the elevator push rod. Has anyone used the smaller ball links? There is enough room for the smaller link for the elevator rod using one of the smaller ball link.
Any problems using the small one? Using RSM control horn.
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Larry,
Can't you put the link on the other side of the horn?
Alan Resinger
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It imparts a twisting moment to the flap horn, but that's what I did on my current ride, which has over 500 flights on it with no signs of wear.
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I'm using nylon insert nuts and there's the problem. Not enough room because of the nut. Could use loctite and regular nut. The swivel ball links fit.
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You could make a custom horn with the two holes offset fore & aft to get needed clearance. This also helps with control linearity.
What are the Dubro numbers for the two ball links in question ?
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Ran into the same prob with a nobler and oriental. Tom Morris has some good clevises to go back there. Some dont trust em but i've got hundreds of flights on both with no issues. i wouldnt use just any ol clevis but the ones Tom sells are the best i've seen. Not sure what brand they are but give Tom a call..he's in the vendors corner under stunthanger i believe. Very nice guy and has always been willing to help...
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Sorry..its TOMS BUILDING SERVICE and then theres a link to his catalogue...great stuff and great service!!
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Swivel is 497
Heavy 899
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I'm using nylon insert nuts and there's the problem. Not enough room because of the nut. Could use loctite and regular nut. The swivel ball links fit.
If it's the 4-40 thread stuff you can get two sizes of nut: one's 1/4" across the flats, the other's 3/16". I have the small nuts on my Twister, with loctite, and it's working fine (I feel strange giving serious advice based on a Twister. But dammit, I'm flying in Expert and I'm going to replace that thing as soon as possible!)
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If it's the 4-40 thread stuff you can get two sizes of nut: one's 1/4" across the flats, the other's 3/16".
You got a source for the 3/16" across flats.
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You got a source for the 3/16" across flats.
Um -- no? I'm just compulsive about saving every bit of hardware that comes across my bench.
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Thanks for all the help. H^^ Got it fixed. The link that I was trying to use may have been one of the metric ones. May have picked up a metric link by mistake. The one I was try to use had a lot more material around the ball and that was the reason it wouldn't fit. Had a case of the dumba--. First time using these things.
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You got a source for the 3/16" across flats.
Who doesn't love McMaster Carr?
http://www.mcmaster.com/#90760a005/=wewxi5
http://www.mcmaster.com/#hex-nuts/=weww96
Regards,
Chris
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Larry,
I did this on an Oriental ARC. They have absolutely no room for almost anything back there and this was the obvious solution. Some may complain about the aesthetics of it but I am only concerned with the results.
Dennis
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Larry,
I did this on an Oriental ARC. They have absolutely no room for almost anything back there and this was the obvious solution. Some may complain about the aesthetics of it but I am only concerned with the results.
Dennis
Hi Dennis,
I have to use "scabs" on almost ALL of the Classic models I have done with ball links. They are basically hidden by the stab anyway! ;D
Bill
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Who doesn't love McMaster Carr?
http://www.mcmaster.com/#90760a005/=wewxi5
http://www.mcmaster.com/#hex-nuts/=weww96
Regards,
Chris
If you have clearance issues, I would recommend what we call "missile nuts". McMaster Carr calls them "Jet nuts".
http://www.mcmaster.com/#hex-nuts/=x5aubr From this link, go to "Flange Nuts", "Steel".
The MS21042 is good in all shear and tension applications up to 160K PSI and 450F. The 4-40 version is only 5/32" across the flats.