Building Tips and technical articles. > Building techniques
Another Nobler ARF Build
Colin McRae:
I know it's been done to death, but I am shortly going to embark on the assembly of a Top Flite Nobler ARF. Planned power is the new Enya SS 35 EX ABC-BB engine that is quite light. I'm not going to go wild on the build but plan on the following basic ARF modifications that others have done.
- Replace the lead outs and bell crank controls
- CF pushrods w/ ball joints
- Adjustable lead out guide
- Outer adjustable wing tip weight box
- Strengthen the engine mounts with gussets
- Fuel proof the engine and fuel tank areas
One question I have relates to the nut that secures the bell crank bolt. The nut is secured with what looks to be a drop of epoxy (or maybe Loctite). The question is if there is a trick that allows the existing nut to be more easily removed. Mayne heating the nut with a soldering tool? Or some other suitable method?
Thanks in advance.
Dan McEntee:
If you can get a wrench or nut driver on it, just give it a twist and I think you'll see it flake right off. It's just supposed to resist vibration, not directly applied torque. It's a cheap, Chinese substitute so don't expect a lot from it.
The adjustable lead outs will be a challenge just from what I have seen on the two I have messed with. They got a LOT of extra wood that isn't in a kit or plans built model that you will have to deal with. The tip eight box might be the same but you could prefabricate the box, then cut into the bottom sheeting right up against the tip rib and the spar and see how that will work. I really haven't had to deal with tip weight on either.
i put in some custom fitted 3/8" thick balsa with the grain running across the fuselage in between the engine mount beams to tie those together and it also gives you a real floor to support a tank. Make a top block for the front of the engine mounts to tie them together there and run it up against the firewall, after you have gotten your engine fitted and mounting hardware installed. I put a short length of 3/8" balsa between the bearers at that point also, and then you can work on gussets for the bottom. Everything gets coated with thinned epoxy when finished.
You are on the right track with everything else.
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee
Colin McRae:
--- Quote from: Dan McEntee on March 18, 2025, 01:14:26 PM ---
The adjustable lead outs will be a challenge just from what I have seen on the two I have messed with. They got a LOT of extra wood that isn't in a kit or plans built model that you will have to deal with. The tip eight box might be the same but you could prefabricate the box, then cut into the bottom sheeting right up against the tip rib and the spar and see how that will work. I really haven't had to deal with tip weight on either.
Hi Dan
I'm trying to digest the comments above related to the addition of adjustable lead outs and tip weight box on a Nobler ARF. I do understand the complexity involved but am trying to decide if the trim benefits they offer outweigh the work involved.
Since you have put together a couple of these ARF's, do you believe the stock (fixed) lead out location is fine as is and also the stock installed tip weight as is?
I currently have a Nobler ARF that is stock, but somewhat beat up. It actually flies reasonably well stock. The CG is 3" from the LE at the fuse and the centerline of the lead outs are 1-7/8" behind the CG. Just what the plans show. I also have a set of plans for the 'original' Nobler. And if you believe the plans, there should be 3/4oz of lead at the outer wing tip on the ARF.
So, I guess my question is if I should just forget the adj lead outs and weight box, and just do the other kit mods noted above, most importantly replace the lead outs and bell crank system, as well as beefing up the engine mounts.
Your thoughts are most welcome.
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee
--- End quote ---
Robert Whitley:
You’re right on with the soldering iron idea to soften the glue on the bellcrank nut.
It works well.
Have fun with your Nobler!
Ken Culbertson:
Colin - I don't have any pictures that show how I did it but I had adjustable leadouts in my Nobler ARF. You will need to recover the wingtip if you can find matching Whatever-it-is Kote. I will sketch out what I did if you are interested. I assume you are also replacing the bellcrank and leadouts. If you do, use a 4" bellcrank, it will give you better clearance on the forward leadout. If you are building electric the stock leadouts will be too far back.
Ken
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