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Building Tips and technical articles. => Building techniques => Topic started by: Allan Perret on October 09, 2011, 11:11:44 AM
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This is a SV-11 ARC I built to test the ENYA 61 RE.
Realized at the end of project that I forgot to install tank floor.
Had to come up with something to install tank.
Tank is custom, Big R says you dont need no stinkin wedge so I'm giving it a try.
Crossbar is 2 layers of the large craft stick epoxied together with 6-32 blind nuts installed from bottom.
Hold downs are 1/4 x 1/2 maple.
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That Enya is absolutely one beautiful motor. Allan, you should be proud of that one.
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Allen, How about some info on how you cut, fit and built that tank.
It look's real good...
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Allen, How about some info on how you cut, fit and built that tank.
It look's real good...
Made a hand held bending tool from 3/4 maple square stock and 2 pieces of 1/4x20 all thread.
Made a tank form out of pine block.
Used K&S .008 tin , it solders real nice. Kester solder paste and solid core plumbers solder.
Wrap paper around form to develop pattern for main body. Make 1st bend, put it on form to mark for next bend, repeat for rest of bends.
To make end caps, stand main body on end, put 1/8 square stock against each tank side and trace around it, that gives you the solder flange.
I also made a special small bender just for bending the flanges on end caps.
Only hard part was the interlocking finger joint (about 3/16") on main body seam. I have made tanks with simple overlapped seam, but the interlocking fingers is much stronger. It takes a some practice to get it right, have extra tin stock on hand if you decide to try it.
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Thanks Allen,
I like the tool's that you made, never thought about the 45 degree bender, and the flange benders.
Are you gonna make the contest? Should be a pretty good turn out.
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Thanks Allen,
I like the tool's that you made, never thought about the 45 degree bender, and the flange benders.
Are you gonna make the contest? Should be a pretty good turn out.
The tool does not really need to have the 45° jaw.
You just need to go a little past 90 with the bends to compensate for the spring back, a 10° relief on upper jaw would probably work OK.
Yes I will be at the contest.
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I'm using a 120cc (4 ounce) clunk tank in my SV-11 ARC. I glued two short pieces of hardwood to the front bulkhead and another piece across the rear bulkhead to take 4 small woodscrews which hold the .8mm ply floor in place. The rear mount does double duty because it also has the bracket I used to support the end of the slide on tube muffler.
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Brian,
That is a good way to make a tank floor, I will copy that into my SV-11. But I am afraid you will need a bigger tank for your Enya 61CX, unless you are running a smaller venturi and a small prop to save fuel.
Martin
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Martin,
So far I've had 37 flights with the Enya 61RE with an 8mm venturi and a 13x5 Bolly prop. I actually withdraw a little fuel from the tank to keep the engine run time to just on 6 minutes. My fuel has been 75/25 all castor, mixed for running in, but it's now exhausted so I'll be switching to my usual 80/20 all castor from now on. With a slightly more methanol in the tank I'll probably have to withdraw a fraction more than previously.
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Brian,
aahhh the old "no nitro" trick. Could not imagine this engine could be so economic with no nitro, will have to try this formula sometime.
Cheers,
Martin
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Does anyone make that clamp that you use on the end of the muffler? The Du Bro rubber ducky is often used, but they are hard to keep from sliding off! I finally made two half-circular clamps from a piece of brass tubing with a 3-48 bolt drilled through the whole thing. It holds the rubber ducky on, but the bolt is a restrictor.
Floyd
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I filed a groove in the muffler tube and wire wrap the rubber exhaust extension to it. Have not had one come off yet. H^^
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Does anyone make that clamp that you use on the end of the muffler?
That clamp is primarily to support the end of Randy's tube muffler but it does triple duty. It supports the muffler, stops the rubber ducky from sliding off and gives a soft mount against vibration. The header was shortened so the support would be where it is. It's just a couple of 4mm socket head bolts with alloy tube spacers but because of the length of the bolts they had to be assembled into the hardwood mount before glueing the mount in place. The brackets were just cut from some 1/16" alloy plate I had laying around.