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Building Tips and technical articles. => Building techniques => Topic started by: Phil Goldberg on March 08, 2017, 09:08:03 PM
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What type of glue do builders think best for gluing sandpaper to aluminum sanding bars? I thought rubber cement (hard to remove with buildup) or contact cement, (how hard is it to remove from sanding bar? Is there some kind of spray adhesive that is thin and works, paper to aluminum? Thanks for all the help from the builders.
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What type of glue do builders think best for gluing sandpaper to aluminum sanding bars? I thought rubber cement (hard to remove with buildup) or contact cement, (how hard is it to remove from sanding bar? Is there some kind of spray adhesive that is thin and works, paper to aluminum? Thanks for all the help from the builders.
I use 3M77. When your sandpaper gets worn out, put more over the top of the old. Eventually, you can pull most of the accumulated layers off, then remove the rest with lacquer thinner.
Brett
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I use the PSA sand paper rolls and agree the Great Planes brand is very expensive so I use wider and longer rolls at a reasonable price from these guys:
http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/norton-gold-reserve-psa-sheet-rolls-p-18828.aspx
The also sell same stuff in 3M brand but a roll is $46 vs this Norton stuff at $18
Long time back I got 2 of the Great Planes 36" sanding bars on sale, coupon, and free shipping from Tower then cut one down to sizes I wanted...
This PSA paper is wider than the bar but the cut off long strip is useful for making other sanding shapes from dowel rod or Balsa scrap
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Thats the same process I use Fredvon
I find the adhesive on the PSA is designed for this, convenient, reliable, and that ignores the fact that the paper is much more durable and consistant than any hardware store sandpaper ever thought of being..
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I use double sided tape.
Jerry
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Lee Valley has 2 1/2" wide PSA backed sandpaper in grits ranging from 80 to 220. It's good stuff - the grit lasts a long time and the adhesive on the back holds firmly but peels of quite easily when it's time to change. It works much better than the stuff my LHS sells.
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Here's a couple of cheap options...
Aluminum T-Bar, 1-1/4" wide x 1" High x 2' = $3.80
https://www.mcmaster.com/#1668t52/=16ojap5
Sanding rolls, 2-1/2" wide
100grit x 55" = $4.82
120grit x 70" = $4.82
180grit x 85" = $4.82
240grit x 100" = $5.04
280grit x 100" = $5.04
https://www.mcmaster.com/#sanding-rolls/=16oj9mp
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Back to Phil's original question.... I too tired the craft rubber glue but I found it causes bumps and irregularities...and edges debond too easy .....So I tried 3M 77 spray, and it works best for non PSA paper... acetone or MEK cleans off any residue when re-papering
Another hint.... get and keep the 3 or 4 packs* of canned air and at least one Creape Sanding belt/disk re conditioner block
When knocking down primer or doped on filler I can blast off the build up on the sand paper nearly 99% and keep the bar working well
When softer crap gets balled up on the sandpaper the Creape rubber will do a very good job of removing most of it
*... frequently Walmart has the 3 or 4 pack where the price equates to one or two free cans of his expensive but exceedingly convenient compressed air...
Yes Virginia, I have several air compressors...
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I like the idea of using compressed air to blow sandpaper clean. I own a tool that is much better than the compressed air cans for this. It is the Metro Datavac electric duster. Watch out where you point it. It will blow the pictures off the mantle.
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=metro+datavac
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I use a glue stick like the kids use in school. It works even for the "glue" backed sandpaper. You can clean it off with water and it works on both aluminum bars and hardwood blocks. Available anywhere school supplies and craft supplies are sold.
Paul
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I use 2 inch wide golf grip tape to hold my sand paper to my sanding blocks. Can be bought in any number of places.
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Spray adhesive.
Mostly because I can remove the sandpaper strip quickly with a heat gun. A few passes on high heat with a Monocoat gun softens the adhesive and the strip will peel off.
Also works well on wood sanding blocks. Cleanup, if necessary, with solvents.
Ara
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Mine is a modified version of Ara's.
I use a pliers and a torch and hold the aluminum sanding block with the pliers and heat it from the back. No mess and it cools quickly. also almost never have to respray the adhesive.
Your results may very.
Tim
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If you use PSA paper you dont need heat, or pliers or anything to remove it,, you also dont need extra products laying around to attach it, you also can make sanding blocks literally out of almost anything
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Cut fresh paper so it laps around the edges a bit then use masking tape to secure it. The cheaper stuff works better than automotive grade, it seems to have stronger adhesive. 8)
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I use 3M77. When your sandpaper gets worn out, put more over the top of the old. Eventually, you can pull most of the accumulated layers off, then remove the rest with lacquer thinner.
Brett
Stuff works good, I bought it for pool table felt. I've been using it to adhere sandpaper on bars also. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170310/89d831020a6ee3b9b3967276c426be59.jpg)
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The 3M77 adhesive is great stuff. I use it all the time. I will print out parts that need to be made on to paper, spray it and stick it to balsa, plywood, aluminum, you name it. Then I cut it out and have the part I need. If the paper stick too well to the part, just use a heat gun to loosen the adhesive.
Dennis
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Soak it in mineral spirits to disolve the glue.
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Just wanted to mention this site that sells all kinds of aluminum including T shape for sanding bars. Up to eight feet long.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/123/3710/=16ot8s9