Here are some pictures of the fiberglassing I've done on my '52 Nobler.  It's not for competition, so no issues with the rules.  I'll spare you the tutorial, but if you have any questions, I'll be glad to help.  I will send a few posts to allow for the KB limitation.  Cowling specs: weight 18 grams (.6 oz), wall thickness .03 in., time to complete 6 hrs.  I still need to do a little surfacing and add the spinner ring, but you get the idea.  This system can be used for cowlings, belly pans, turtle decks, wing tips, wheel pants, opaque canopies, etc.  Easy and very durable.  Dent proof!  Try it.

Paul

Very cool.  Why does it always take someone else doing it to go....DOH!  Why didn't I think of that!   What weight of cloth and how many layers did you use?

Glenn,

I use one layer of heavy (5 oz) cloth cut in strips that will allow the glass to form to tight areas.  Then I use three or four layers of light (3/4 oz) cloth.  The heavy layer is a must to get the rigidity required.  Finshing epoxy or 30 minute thinned slightly with alcohol will both work well for the lay up.  Allow at least 24 hours for the epoxy to set before sanding.

Paul

An alternate to the heavy weave fibre glas is the stuff that has a random weave or what ever you call it.  Not  too many strands going in same direction.  Cut into squares and flake it off and put in the epoxy an mold.  Much stiffer than the normal weave.  Even used it to put landing gears in F2C racing planes back in the day.

Yes it was the mat form of fibre glas.   We cut itinto squares so it could be flaked off and pressed into place.   Really makes for a very stiff surface.

I once designed an entire stunter made of blue foam covered in glass, but after many years of procrastination, decided that unless I was going to make five of them, I'd be better off sticking with mostly traditional methods.

For cowls, wing tips and other compound shapes it takes a lot of beating, though. Electric models may benefit even more with alternative mounting and cowling opportunities.