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Building Tips and technical articles. => Building techniques => Topic started by: David Ebers on October 28, 2021, 02:06:31 PM
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Any pros or cons using an adjustable leadout slider with a nylon block (Brodak's) instead of brass eyelets?
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David, they work fine, i even use them on 1/2a's.
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I round the hole out so that the lines don't saw into the nylon as fast but other than that they are just ad good as eyelets.
Ken
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They weigh a teeny bit more than eyelets -- but it's essentially what I use. (I say "essentially" because I make mine up out of plywood & brass tubing, with basswood rails to slide on. But it's basically the same thing, only without having to mail order yet more stuff).
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I have always bushed the holes in the nylon slider with brass eyelets.
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They weigh a teeny bit more than eyelets -- but it's essentially what I use. (I say "essentially" because I make mine up out of plywood & brass tubing, with basswood rails to slide on. But it's basically the same thing, only without having to mail order yet more stuff).
I found some 1/16" thick "tongue depressor" like "sticks" at Walmart that are out of some wood that is as hard as oak and lighter than Bass. Lifetime supply for $1.98 (plus tax). I use them for slides on my leadouts and anywhere else calling for thin hard wood. I use eyelets with the rounded part on the inside. I have used nylon but the leadouts sawed into it from the back where you can't see it. Forgive the rough wood in the pix.
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Only comment is if you are using solid leadouts you need the larger (short) eyelets to allow the solids to flex and not stick. I have used the nylon block slider with flexible cable works great. I have also done the plywood strip with the multi holes and eyelets that works and is a little lighter then the nylon block slider. The plywood with multi holes is simple to make and gives you roughly -+3/32" position control which for me is well within what I can notice at the handle.
One tip I would suggest that you consider, have the leadout overhang long enough for one clip off and reset the ends. This allows changing the slider block/eyelets out at least once if you are a heavy flier without needing to dig into the bellcrank to change the whole leadout.
Best, DennisT
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One tip I would suggest that you consider, have the leadout overhang long enough for one clip off and reset the ends. This allows changing the slider block/eyelets out at least once if you are a heavy flier without needing to dig into the bellcrank to change the whole leadout.
More of a question than a comment. If you use the AMA double wrap you can cut off the shrink tubing and "unwrap" the lines, fix whatever then rewrap them in the same place. Am I wrong? I have to confess to having done it. Plane survived. Am I in violation of some "Common Knowledge" thing?
Ken
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Thanks for the information gentlemen. I appreciate it.
Any thoughts on using brass tubing in place of eyelets to terminate leadouts?
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Thanks for the information gentlemen. I appreciate it.
Any thoughts on using brass tubing in place of eyelets to terminate leadouts?
Yes - Don't unless they are very short and you round out the edges. If you use a tube you create 2 bend/rub points at the tip. The perfect "eyelet" had no flats. They don't make those unfortunately....maybe they do, line eyelets are flared on both ends, have to look into that.
Ken