Author Topic: Cutlass XL canopy... and more. Moving along. (Read 5089 times)

Derek Barry · « **Reply #1 on:** September 23, 2012, 08:41:12 AM »

And I covered the rudder. Flaps and elevators next. I will cover the wing in a few days then it will be finishing time.

Matt Colan · « **Reply #2 on:** September 25, 2012, 12:07:56 PM »

I am really looking forward to the finished product of this one!! I can't wait!!!!!!! Keep up the good work Derek!

Avaiojet · « **Reply #3 on:** September 25, 2012, 01:38:36 PM »

Derek,

You did a nice clean job on that installation.

Where does one get pilots of that type?

Charles

Derek Barry · « **Reply #4 on:** September 25, 2012, 02:15:29 PM »

Charles,

Williams Brothers. Brodak sells them.

Derek

Avaiojet · « **Reply #5 on:** September 26, 2012, 07:40:44 AM »

Derek,

Thanks, I'll check that out.

Gotta make sure it's really glued in place, pinned even, Could brake off if just glued to paint?

Charles

Derek Barry · « **Reply #6 on:** September 26, 2012, 09:23:01 AM »

Quote from: Avaiojet on September 26, 2012, 07:40:44 AM

Derek,

Thanks, I'll check that out.

Gotta make sure it's really glued in place, pinned even, Could brake off if just glued to paint?

Charles

The bottom of the pilot is not painted and I use epoxy to glue all my pilots in. I have not had one come loose yet...Also the floor is a piece of 1500 sandpaper that is epoxied to the wood underneath. The pilot is glued to that.

Derek

Tom Niebuhr · « **Reply #7 on:** September 26, 2012, 12:06:55 PM »

I drill a series of holes in the base of the pilot. This allows the epoxy to bite into the bottom of the pilot. I have never had one come loose using this method.

Derek Barry · « **Reply #8 on:** September 26, 2012, 12:10:47 PM »

Quote from: Tom Niebuhr on September 26, 2012, 12:06:55 PM

I drill a series of hole in the base of the pilot. This allows the epoxy to bite into the bottom of the pilot. I have never had one come loose using this method.

Good idea!

Derek

Trostle · « **Reply #9 on:** September 26, 2012, 03:47:00 PM »

Besides always using epoxy between the pilot and bare wood, I put a pin made from a toothpick in the back of the pilot's head into the headrest. Done right, you cannot see the pin. (The pilot does not complain very much or for very long.)

Keith

Tom Niebuhr · « **Reply #10 on:** September 27, 2012, 08:41:37 AM »

Keith,
Sounds like voodoo to me.

RandySmith · « **Reply #11 on:** September 27, 2012, 11:01:23 AM »

clear silicone work very well for gluing pilots to the deck...use on bottom and the head if it touches the back of the seat

Randy

Bill Little · « **Reply #12 on:** September 27, 2012, 12:37:44 PM »

Aaron's pilot in his Geo Bolt XL was epoxied, plus it was screwed to a plate under the cockpit floor. A ground strike on take off shattered a Bolly 3 bld., but the PA .61 didn't quit. About 15 nerve shattering vibration filled minutes later, it quit. The pilot was just bouncing around in the cockpit................

BIG Bear
RNMM/AMM

Derek Barry · « **Reply #13 on:** September 27, 2012, 12:43:12 PM »

Quote from: Bill Little on September 27, 2012, 12:37:44 PM

Aaron's pilot in his Geo Bolt XL was epoxied, plus it was screwed to a plate under the cockpit floor. A ground strike on take off shattered a Bolly 3 bld., but the PA .61 didn't quit. About 15 nerve shattering vibration filled minutes later, it quit. The pilot was just bouncing around in the cockpit................

BIG Bear
RNMM/AMM

Yeah that will do it. Surprised it didn't shake the plane apart.

Bill Little · « **Reply #14 on:** September 27, 2012, 12:47:00 PM »

Quote from: Derek Barry on September 27, 2012, 12:43:12 PM

Yeah that will do it. Surprised it didn't shake the plane apart.

HI Little Buddy!

It almost did. It caused a Tm Morris 6/32 blind nut (the BIG ones!) to come loose, and it fractured a lower spar in the outboard wing. It happened at Brodak's and we didn't discover the broken spar until Aaron was practicing at Huntersville in Oct. He didn't fly it in the meet! LOL!!

C'ya soon!

BIG Bear

Avaiojet · « **Reply #15 on:** September 30, 2012, 02:25:12 PM »

Derek,

I checked out that Pilot.

Hey, you never said you painted it! You did a great job, outlined stars and all!

I need two but really don't feel like painting them. Bummer.

Charles

RandySmith · « **Reply #16 on:** September 30, 2012, 11:30:12 PM »

Clear silicone works better than either

Randy

john e. holliday · « **Reply #17 on:** October 01, 2012, 08:52:37 AM »

That is silicone glue, not sealant. My case I punch small holes in the floor of the pilot area where he is going to be and holes in the bottom of the pilot. Plain Elmers glue has held them in place, even after a vertical dive into the dirt.

Derek Barry · « **Reply #18 on:** October 01, 2012, 12:33:03 PM »

Well I fianally tapered the flaps, cut the hinge slots and got them fitted to the wing. I also put the flap and elevator horn clips on the ends so they are ready for Nitrate and carbon.

Derek Barry · « **Reply #19 on:** October 01, 2012, 12:34:24 PM »

Here are a few closer pics of the elevator horn clips.

Derek Barry · « **Reply #20 on:** October 01, 2012, 12:36:59 PM »

I have now covered the wing with silkspan but I have not taken pictures of that yet. I guess it is time to move over to the painting and finishing forum. Keep your eyes open for new post over there.

Derek

RandySmith · « **Reply #21 on:** October 01, 2012, 12:52:27 PM »

Quote from: john e. holliday on October 01, 2012, 08:52:37 AM

That is silicone glue, not sealant. My case I punch small holes in the floor of the pilot area where he is going to be and holes in the bottom of the pilot. Plain Elmers glue has held them in place, even after a vertical dive into the dirt.

No One said sealant.... I also didn't mean silicone gasket material, or other silicone products, we were talking about GLUE.... as in gluing pilots to the plane , but even sealant would work better than many glues. and canopy glue would work much better than Elmers.

Randy

James Mills · « **Reply #22 on:** October 01, 2012, 05:21:00 PM »

Derek,

What did you use to make your fillets around the wing and stab?

James

Derek Barry · « **Reply #23 on:** October 02, 2012, 04:23:51 AM »

Quote from: James Mills on October 01, 2012, 05:21:00 PM

Derek,

What did you use to make your fillets around the wing and stab?

James

Super Fill....The blue stuff. I use micro balloons for many many years but this stuff is far better!!!

Derek

Derek Barry · « **Reply #24 on:** October 02, 2012, 04:56:37 AM »

Wings covered....well except for the outboard top. I almost forgot the adjustable trim tab tie down.

That was close!

Steve Fitton · « **Reply #25 on:** October 02, 2012, 07:26:10 AM »

Quote from: RandySmith on October 01, 2012, 12:52:27 PM

No One said sealant.... I also didn't mean silicone gasket material, or other silicone products, we were talking about GLUE.... as in gluing pilots to the plane , but even sealant would work better than many glues. and canopy glue would work much better than Elmers.

Randy

What is silicone glue?

I use regular clear silicone from the tube to hold the tank in, iss that what you mean?

john e. holliday · « **Reply #26 on:** October 02, 2012, 09:30:44 AM »

Well at my local Ace Hardware and Wally World I discovered there are two types. One is for sealing cracks around tubs/shower stalls. The other is for gluing stuff into place, like the walls around tubs to make it water proof for showers. The sealant type did not hold the fuel tank on a profile and pealed off real easy. The glue type is just that. It holds my profile tanks on real tight.

Gerald Arana · « **Reply #27 on:** October 09, 2012, 12:41:04 PM »

On the subject of glues; I find "Plumber's GOOP" to be very good for flexable glue. But, Don't try to sand it..........because it doesn't sand period.

For RC; I glued my servo trays in with it (Ply to fiberglass) and it can be removed fairly easily if necessary.

Cheers, Jerry

PJ Rowland · « **Reply #28 on:** October 11, 2012, 05:45:09 AM »

Looking good. Looks like you were right - you would catch me up......

Just remember to paint the correct spinner this time - will cut down on a few days.

Thats one FAST build...

Derek Barry · « **Reply #29 on:** October 11, 2012, 06:16:27 AM »

Quote from: PJ Rowland on October 11, 2012, 05:45:09 AM

Looking good. Looks like you were right - you would catch me up......

Just remember to paint the correct spinner this time - will cut down on a few days.

Thats one FAST build...

you got jokes!

Everything except the wing is in primer now. I cant wait to put some color on this thing.

Derek

Joshua Harel · « **Reply #30 on:** October 13, 2012, 06:52:48 AM »

Hi Derek
I have been following this build with much interest and am learning a lot, thank you:)
What are the spec's? Wing Span? Expected finished weight? Engine?
Thanks
Joshua

Derek Barry · « **Reply #31 on:** October 15, 2012, 06:45:27 AM »

Quote from: Joshua Harel on October 13, 2012, 06:52:48 AM

Hi Derek
I have been following this build with much interest and am learning a lot, thank you:)
What are the spec's? Wing Span? Expected finished weight? Engine?
Thanks
Joshua

Hey Joshua,

The wingspan is 61 inches, I expect it to come out in the low 60s, maybe 62-63 oz. I am using a PA 65 on a pipe for power. I have started shooting primer and the base colors. I will have more pictures soon.

Derek

Derek Barry · « **Reply #32 on:** October 15, 2012, 07:04:55 AM »

And there are more pictures of the Cutlass XL on the painting and finishing forum...

Derek

Brad Smith · « **Reply #33 on:** October 18, 2012, 09:59:07 AM »

Derek do you use lazer cut parts usch as ribs and fuse formers or do you cut them yourself?

Derek Barry · « **Reply #34 on:** October 18, 2012, 10:14:58 AM »

Quote from: Brad Smith on October 18, 2012, 09:59:07 AM

Derek do you use lazer cut parts usch as ribs and fuse formers or do you cut them yourself?

Hey Brad,

I do it all myself. I have used lazer cut ribs, both of my take apart planes have them. The millennium wing uses rib strips kinda like a, I-beam wing.

Derek

Douglas Ames · « **Reply #35 on:** October 18, 2012, 11:19:05 PM »

Al Rabe uses a wood block and screw from below on his Wil. Bros. Pilots.

I just epoxied mine to bare wood.

Aaron Little · « **Reply #36 on:** October 19, 2012, 09:21:41 PM »

Quote from: Douglas Ames on October 18, 2012, 11:19:05 PM

Al Rabe uses a wood block and screw from below on his Wil. Bros. Pilots.

I just epoxied mine to bare wood.

Easy rider??