It is <ALWAYS> easier and more controllable to use more resin than wanted, ensuring a complete wetting out of the fabric, and then remove the excess.
Also, it is never advised to "thin Epoxy" with anything. Using the correct epoxy for laminating is the correct way to do it. MSG, Pro-Set, etc. West Systems if you HAVE to...
If your epoxy is thick due to ambient temperature being low, you want to warm the epoxy just prior to application, 85-90f is good. Removing excess epoxy is the way to control the weight, unless you want to use pre-peg and an autoclave, which is way past most peoples capability.
For you cavemen that don't know anything about vacuum bagging or molding fiberglass, try to keep an open mind, and you might learn some useful techniques. Trust me, some of them are worth learning, even for control line.... Here is a couple-
1. The whole 3M77 light spray and using waxed paper or butcher paper as a carrier so as not to distort the light bias weave is PURE GOLD! and definitely applicable to ALL modeling.
Just spray a super light mist on the pre-smoothed, unwrinkled fabric from about 2' above. Just a dusting. Then lay a smooth layer of your carrier paper on it. It could be waxed paper, butcher paper, something that has a "coating" on it, so that the epoxy will not soak in. Plastic can work as well, but it needs to not wrinkle.
Rub it down gently. After that, the two layers are lightly bonded, and you can cut or gently handle the layers without distorting the weave. GENIOUS!
2. Don't have a vacuum bag "Mylar" and want to get glass down on a flat surface smoothly with a glossy finish? (Like for a small repair or something).
Balsa wood (or other wood, ply, for example) can be sanded smooth and covered with packing tape. Using this piece of wood clamped over your flat stab, or whatever (fuse nose on a profile?) effectively makes a good base for a "press" that Dave mentioned. Epoxy will not stick to packing tape. Depending on how hard you can squeeze the pieces, you can get a good amount of resin to ooze out of the piece, getting closer to the "correct" ratio of fibers to resin. ALSO, the finish will be SHINY and ready to go if you don't HAVE to paint it. And no pinholes. If painting, just scuff and go.
Great for trailing edges on my composite sailplanes, but I'm sure you can see the applications are endless.
Need a wider than 2" piece (packing tape width)? I'm guessing that a fresh piece of monokote could be used the same way, and you all have that sitting around. Please test my theory FIRST before committing to this technique. Don't scratch the monokote on application to the wood, and avoid air bubbles.
Keep learning,
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