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1/2 a ibeam

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ebonbetta:
ok so if i build a 1/2 Ibeam what would you suggest as the leading edge and trailing edge sizes ?

Ralph Wenzel (d):
Probably around 1/8 x 3/8 for the LE and 3/16 sq. for the TE. A dozen years ago (about) someone in the LA area shrank two of JAck Sheeks I-Beam designs to ½A size; they almost looked like jewelry! One was the Beech Staggerwing. He covered with transparent Monokote so the 2,458 little riblets were visible! I don't remember which of the monoplane designs he did. (I guess I was too imppressed with the Beech.)

Remember that, even more than with larger planes, weight is the enemy, and all those little pieces have to be stuck together with something. You might consider thinned Elmer's appl;ied with an artist's brush, which will be adequate if the pieces fit with precision.

I have plans for the Beech tacked to a door in my shop. Someday . . .

Bill Little:
The standard 35 size LE is 1/4" X 1/2", and TE is 1/2" square.  Dropping to 1/8th" or 3/16th" is a good idea.  1/4" or 3/16ths like Ralph said, for the TE.  1/16th or 1/20th for the ribs.  the whole "problem", as Ralph said, will be keeping the weight down!

Bill <><

Clancy Arnold:
When I built my IBTW Barnstormer I had reduced the Baby Barnstormer plans to 75%.  Then I built it replacing the 1/16 sides , doublers and ribs with 1/20 sheet.  The plans call for 1/20 sheet wing LE and I used 1/32 sheet.  I also used 1/8 square for all four spars and the leading edge.
Clancy

dave shirley jr:
when i built my A/2 cyclon powered ship it was 75% of the original size airplane so i used .75 sized wood. if the original used 1/4x1/2 i used 3/16x3/8 if it was 3/32 sides i used 1/6
and so on even on down to the 1/20 for 1/16
the rib count was refigured. i think i dropped every other rib
which made the spacing resonable. you dont really need ribs an inch apart. which saved a lot of weight.
Dave jr

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