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Building Tips and technical articles. => Building techniques => Topic started by: Avaiojet on March 10, 2012, 09:06:53 AM
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OK, lets see.
This little thingie goes with that little thingie and that little thingie gets glued to those little thingies. n~
Well, As you can see, I've made some progress. I have all the fuselage parts and tail feather parts removed.
Charles
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Getting all my ducks in a row.
The immediates.
.125" fuselage sides, 2
.06" balsa fuselage doublers, 2
.06" plywood fuselage doublers, 2
These will be glued first. I should say Epoxied first.
With a thin, really thin layer of epoxy, I'll have five laminations of material from the wing spars forward. Which is plenty!
The rails will be cut to the correct length and drilled with a series of holes to decrease weight. As most do. No secrets there. Not ready for them yet.
Alignment of these pieces is key. Have to be because all bulkheads have to fit in their proper holes.
So, I'll epoxy the .06" balsa doubler to the fuselage side first and set it aside. I'll put .125" wedges into a few bulkhead holes to permite perfect alignment while arranging the pieces. They must be removed or will get epoxied in place. Obviously.
When cured, I'll repeat this exact step with the .06" plywood fuselage doubler over the .06" balsa fuselage doubler.
There's my five laminations. Well, ten if you count both sides.
Should be strong and light.
I'll get that completed and return!
Thanks Charles
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Well, I now have the three pieces that make up the fuselage sides epoxied together.
As I mention, it's important to stick wedges in the bulkhead slots/holes for positive alignment. Bulkheads have to fit in the slots.
I gave The NEW AMERICAN a wedgie! It looks like four actually, per side. Yes, a trick shot, wedgies stuck in there after the epoxy set up. Can't keep them in there, they'll be glued!
I epoxied all three pieces at the same time because I can. However, I wouldn't recommend it, especially using five minute epoxy.
OK, next will be the hole drilling for the engine rails.
I'll be back!
Charles
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Thanks for the build pics Charles. y1
Especially the notes to "self". #^
Been there....Done that! LL~ LL~
Look'n good!
"Tight Lines!" H^^
Wes
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Thanks for the build pics Charles. y1Especially the notes to "self". #^Been there....Done that! LL~ LL~Look'n good!"Tight Lines!" H^^Wes
Wes,
Thanks for the reply and interest.
Yes, that note to myself is no joke. A bit exaggerated for the photo, just an "X" would have been fine.
I too have made this mistake before. And at my age with my forgetful mind, all this helps.
Measure twice, cut once!
Thanks again!
Charles
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Back again with a tad more progress. Nothing major, but tasks that do have to get done.
A bit of cleaning inside the bulkhead slots so the bulkheads fit easily. Cutting the length of the rails and the drilling of holes for weight removal. It all adds up. I designed the model, but a placement of parts needed as tasks take place, to some, is helpful.
Forgot to mention that the plywood fuselage doubler was scratched up a bit with coarse paper, then cleaned of sanding dust before being epoxied in place.
Almost forgot! I will weigh this stuff, be interesting to see what I get.
Other photo is obvious. Just three holes in the #1 bulkhead for tank plumbing. 4oz, uniflow tank by GRW.
Takes a second to align the copper tubes sticking out of the tank. Goes into the holes easier. Paper template for hole location, no rocket science there.
Tank looks round in the photo, just the flash, it is flat.
Put these parts together just for the test fit. two landing gear plywood pcs. fits in slot, balsa base.
The tank, back end up at the moment, will lay flat with a thin ply strip placed above it. I should have made the tank holes in the #1 bulkhead just a tad higher. Guess it is rocket science. n~
Now the tank floor cannot sit on the rails between the tank. I'll trim the tank floor to fit between the rails. Loose 30 % of the tank floor and a bit more weight.
Looks like the first mistake paid off.
Charles
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OK, I've learned something today in my search for tank information.
The tank will be adjustable.
I'll trim 3/16" off the rails and I have distance above the tank for adjustment.
I received a "tip," actually really good advice.
All suggestions, advice and ideas are more than welcome.
Don't be shy.
Thanks,
Charles
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I loose interest easily, so I'm moving on to another area of the model.
Stab and elevator. I chose .25" thick stock. Tiny bit of a bow in the stab, probably .06" from end to end. I could straighten it. Nah! It'll be fine, can't get carried away, this is only a knock around sport model.
I am delighted with the laser cut parts so far, they remove easily from their birthplace.
Bunch of parts here, but alignment is no issue and the elevator can only go together one way.
All parts and the elevator assembled.
Like a minute or two to CA this! Done!
Elevator has area, measures 24" X 3.5"
Charles
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Thought I'd drop this photo in.
Here's the future.
Charles
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OK, It was brought to my attention that the tank should have ample room for up and down adjustment. Not good just sitting on the engine rails.
So, I have been known to take advice, learn, then follow up on it. Especially when the advice is so politely given. Correct to, which is also important.
Here's my trimmed rails leaving ample room for tank adjustment. Not to mention the removal of material, which will save weight!
Charles
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I did a bit more work on The NEW AMERICAN tonight, not a great deal of work but, none the less, progress.
Simply glued the engine mounts to the plywood doublers.
None of the formers are glued.
Photos show how the kit pieces just snap together. Being held together by a couple of pieces of tape and a rubber band for the benefit of a photo or two.
All parts will be separated again for gluing and final assembly.
I could just CA everything as the model is.
Charles
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Well, everything you see in these photos is glued. Really glued.
No fixes here, it is what it is.
Landing gear holes marked for drilling.
Engine holes next.
Thanks for looking!
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Looking good Charles, maybe I missed it but what engine are you using ?? Keep up the good build.
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Looking good Charles, maybe I missed it but what engine are you using ?? Keep up the good build.
Leester,
Thanks for the reply.
I decided on the OS LA 40 Blue. I actually have one NIB.
Look below for a fuselage update.
Thanks again for your reply.
Charles
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OK, I added a bit more glue to what was already glued.
Top block has step one, rough sanding. I'll round the top block a bit more and also remove some of the upper fuselage side material at the block in doing so.
No biggie on these photos, just shots of the interlocking pieces of the fuselage sides and formers.
Gear mount is two .125" pieces of plywwod.
Charles
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Well,
Top block sanding session number two. I get so board sanding, I cannot complete a piece start to finish in one session, even the sanding of square stock to round a LE.
I don't tack glue my blocks in place. I use masking tape. Tape it down tight in the rear to sand the front, Tape it down tight in the front to sand the rear. Not rocket science. My trusty sanding "thing." short "T" bar made from scrap balsa and a couple of pins, one's missing. Nothing elaborate, but works nicely. Does the trick. The trick, getting the block round. It will be hollowed!
Also, I'm sure like many others, I use masking tape where I don't want to sand.
Charles
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Jump to the wing, presto! almost complete.
Well, not really. About 3 years ago I purchased a couple of wing kits from Sig. Done this many times because I hate making ribs for wings. At least cutting them myself.
I purchased the Sig Banshee and the Sig Twister wing kits. Both of these wings were to be used for different models.
I choose the Banchee wing because the wing tips were easier to remove than the Twister wing.
You can see where I removed the wing tips in the photo. Removed but replaced with new wing tips for The New American.
Couple of changes to the Banchee wing. Replaced the over and under TE sheeting with a balsa TE measuring 1/2" X 11/16". Sanded down, this gives me a 1/4" flap.
Also, the Banshee wing is not sheeted. The New American wing is sheeted and has capstrips. This gives me a 2.05" thick cord instead of 1.875, which is what the Banshee wing is sans cap strips.
You can also see the cut needed, in the wing for adjustable lead outs. That leadout space won't be much thicker than that.
Charles
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Sidebar!!
A couple of steps/tasks above, actually the "trimming" of the engine blocks, I removed .125" from the top of both engine blocks to allow for vertical adjustment of the tank.
Nothing wrong with that, it got the job done. The tank can now be adjusted. A good thing.
However, while second thinking this, I could have lowered the placement of the engine blocks .125". Then by using a .125" aluminum or hard wood shim, between the block and the engine, would bring the engine to where the thrust line is located. All well and good.
Actually, trimming the blocks or remaking former #1 and former #2, both ways, would have arrived at the location needed for tank adjustment, that is, getting that .125".
Former #1 and Former #2 have been redrawn to allow for a lower location of the engine mount, .125"
Both sets of formers will be available in the kit to allow for the .125" shim or not.
Personally, I like removing material on the engine mount, an extra task that some may not have the tools to do.
I'm not familiar with other kit designs, be interesting to know if this feature is incorporated in other kit designs or not.
Charles
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Upper wing tip outboard wing, same treatment. Gotta be the same.
Charles
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Well, the nail in the coffin, the last capstrip.
This completely finishes all the wood tasks for the top of the wing.
Wing tip sheeting on the bottom is next and one lase capstrip for each wing tip.
Possibly, Thursday or Friday for that.
Charles
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Wing tips completed with sheeting and final capstrip.
Adjustment in leadouts is 2". .25" forward of the CG and 1.75" aft of the CG.
Should be fine.
Charles
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and how do you adjust it,, and protect the thin sheeting at the tip opening
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and how do you adjust it,, and protect the thin sheeting at the tip opening
Mark,
The adjustment is underneath at the LE. That thin sheeting only looks thin. Besides I have "Dr. Good" for that.
Thanks for the inquiry.
Charles
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any particular reason you are chosing to not reveal your new innovative leadout adjustor?
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I was asked about The New American being just another All American.
The names are similar but that's about it. The NEW AMERICAN is an entirely different model.
Here's some specs:
The construction is much different in that all parts have tabs for fuselage
assembly, and they just fit together.
The nose area is much stronger allowing for just about any engine that will fit.
Fuselage doesn't taper to a "point" in the rear, so there's no need for those struts
or braces under the stab.
The New American is 3" longer from the cord TE to the elevator hinge line. With this longer tail moment, practical working flaps can be used instead of fixed flaps.
All American elevator width is 3". New American has an elevator width of 3.5"
All American elevator span is only 20". New American has an elevator span of 24"
The New American has a greater fuselage rear profile area.
Increased rudder and vertical stab area.
The Inboard wing is only .75" larger. If desired, or more if desired.
All American airfoil is only 1.675" thick, New American 2.06" thick.
All American root cord, 10.675" with non working flaps.
New American, 12" with working flaps, if desired.
Greater prop clearance.
Better graphic logo lettering. :-)
Charles
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I feel like putting this model aside and working on something else, as I normally do. Won't get completed that way, and I do want to complete this model.
So, not much going except the turtle deck area.
Not rocket science. A paper template with a centerline is simply transferred to 1/16" "kinda" hard balsa. Strength is needed in this area and light balsa won't do this. "Twisting."
Ink lines are drawn on the wood from the template and cuts are made. No big deal there. Grain direction?
I grabbed the first thing I could find that was wet. Windex. Wet both sides and rub it in, really wet.
I used the vertical edge of the Frig., has a tight radius and is stainless steel. Wifey won't even know. n~
Work the wood into the radius and soon it will take the shape need to fit over the formers.
Steam? Who needs Steam? Roads? Who needs roads? Line from the movie, "Back to the Future."
Anyway, I use tape, as can be seen in the photo. Rubber bands will also hold the sheet in place while it dries.
1/4" overhang on both sides, bit more in the rear and not as much in the front. Gets trimmed obviously when the piece gets installed.
Gotta think about rudder offset, it will effect this piece.
Charles
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A few more necessary tasks.
As you can see, the turtle deck sheeting now has a new shape.
Ink lines were marked from underneath.
Added 1/8" X 1/16" stringers o the three formers related to the turtledeck. Bit of strength and a place to glue the sheeting on each side of the fin and rudder.
"T" nuts in place for the aluminum gear and four happy marks just waiting to be drilled for engine mounting holes. Offset is eyeballed. Old school?
Charles
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I am so board with working on this one model! It's killing me, and the worst is yet to come.
More assembly, sanding, installing HDWE, which I really hate, hinges, that's not too bad, covering, don't know what yet, and using dope for a finish! A dope that's fuel proof! Resistant!
Thought I'd just slide some of the pieces together, figured a hint, as to what the model will look like, would inspire me a bit. Da nope.
Anyway, I must dig it get some ambition and move on.
A quick note.
I've never built a wing using a wing jig. Including this one. All the ribs, LE and TE, plus the spars, were held together with masking tape and rubber bands.
Couple of measurements and an eyeball and I CA'd the wing up. Works for me! n~
It's getting there!
Charles
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Did you see the "new All American" published in Flying Models some years ago? I suspect plans are available from Carstens. I haven't seen the article in years, but recall it as similar to yours. It would be interesting to compare the two models.
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Jim,
Thanks for the reply.
I know nothing about a new "All American."
This model isn't coppied from any "All American," new or old. However, construction on all sport models would be similar.
Certainly, I would like to "capitalize" on the popularity of the "All American." Obviously, that's why I mention it!
What's interesting, is how the All American remains, still to this day, a popular model to build and fly.
Plans are available everywhere and kits are available from many Vendors.
I had a couple as a kid.
Thanks again,
Charles
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Did you see the "new All American" published in Flying Models some years ago? I suspect plans are available from Carstens. I haven't seen the article in years, but recall it as similar to yours. It would be interesting to compare the two models.
Hi Jim,
I suspect you are referring to Mike Garmon's "All American PHD". I have the FM magazine with the article, never got the plans, but I did see Mike fly it in competition.
Bill
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Now I'm really bent out of shape!
I've got enough balsa wood to build a small outhouse and none of it is 1/4" thick. I can't believe it.
$5.50 for one board stick of 1/4" X 4" X 36"! Not to mention the drive to the local HS. Bummer!
No rocket science here, all photos speak for themselves. Paper template, centerline on flaps made by simply sliding a finger holding a pen. Rough cut flaps from stock via a #11 blade X-Acto. Placed back to back for identical hinge placement.
Pile of Klett hinges taken out of moth balls, four per side and only one at the outer tip.
Flaps get sanded to wing concour during preliminary mounted. Only area that requires sanding at this point is the tip.
Charles
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A quick note:
The New American wing has a span of 56.5". The Wing I'm using, I salvaged from a model that I started building a few years ago, this wing spans 52.5". Just too lazy to make the New American wing from scratch.
So, I removed the wing tips and altered the wing for The New American.
Still the same construction, look and 2.06" thick airfoil.
The 56.5" wing will make for a bit more attractive model.
Charles
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Still plugging away at it.
I generally work on a couple of different models at the same time, but I'm getting used to working on only this one. I do wish the design was more interesting, but The New American is just what it was designed to be, a simple sport model.
Hinging control surfaces is something I don't look forward to, but something I have no issues with. I do them comfortably. Long ailerons in R/C so one gets used to doing the tasks related to making hinge slots, and I've made plenty!
These are the only tools I use with the Klett hinge.
I recess each hinge 50% into each side. That is, I split the hinge down the center, 50% into the TE and 50% into the flap. I don't expose the entire hinge for the presents of one long removable wire. One photo shows that. Another shows the hinge embedded into the TE 50%.
Flap have yet to be sanded at the hinge side. I'll triangle that with a tad of a radius to soften the look of the edge. The 1/4" thick flap will also have to be tapered towards the railing edge. I use no jigs for this. Just bar sanding and an eye ball.
Charles
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You know you're loosing it when you start day dreaming about stunt Corsairs. n~
Flap work. Again not rocket science. inboard flap, a tad longer.
No aluminum "T" bars from carpenter suppliers, no aluminum angle from Ace Hardware, no aluminum "L" angle bars, no 1" square tubing and no jigs, especially 25 or so "C" clamps attached to a machinist workbench or some other gismo. Not that there's anything wrong with that. And no 1/4" thick steel girder, brought in by a skyhook, or three other guys, to use as a straight flat surface.
What you see is what you get, simple sanding block with coarse paper and one local HS "T" sander. Also, I place on my bench surface, actually a sheet of .040 aluminum, sticky back sandpaper. I drag the flap over this to straighten the cut edge.
I also use a simple 45 degree drafting angle as a guide for sanding the 45 degree bevel on the flap hinge area, top and bottom.
Photo shows it all.
I mask the high side of the flap and nothing gets sanded. The tape prevents sanding.
Flaps, 1/4" tapering to 1/8". Ideal, and no money spent for aluminum jigs.
I draw a line, sand, then eyeball.
Stunt Corsair? I gotta think more about that. ;D
Charles
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You know you're loosing it when you start day dreaming about stunt Corsairs. n~
Flap work. Again not rocket science. inboard flap, a tad longer.
No aluminum "T" bars from carpenter suppliers, no aluminum angle from Ace Hardware, no aluminum "L" angle bars, no 1" square tubing and no jigs, especially 25 or so "C" clamps attached to a machinist workbench or some other gismo. Not that there's anything wrong with that. And no 1/4" thick steel girder, brought in by a skyhook, or three other guys, to use as a straight flat surface.
What you see is what you get, simple sanding block with coarse paper and one local HS "T" sander. Also, I place on my bench surface, actually a sheet of .040 aluminum, sticky back sandpaper. I drag the flap over this to straighten the cut edge.
I also use a simple 45 degree drafting angle as a guide for sanding the 45 degree bevel on the flap hinge area, top and bottom.
Photo shows it all.
I mask the high side of the flap and nothing gets sanded. The tape prevents sanding.
Flaps, 1/4" tapering to 1/8". Ideal, and no money spent for aluminum jigs.
I draw a line, sand, then eyeball.
Stunt Corsair? I gotta think more about that. ;D
Charles
Stunt corsair exist - I have plans for a few different ones - Brodak even kits them now
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Stunt corsair exist - I have plans for a few different ones - Brodak even kits them now
Wynn,
Thanks for that info.
I wasn't kidding to be cute or anything, I really have interest in the Corsair. Actually my second favorite Warbird.
What are their sizes? Full fuselage?
I do remember seeing one but I don't believe the wing wasn't as scale as it could have been?
Thanks again,
Charles
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they vary - I have profile and full fuse - flaps and flapless - I beam wing,C tube, 1/2a all sheet.......
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they vary - I have profile and full fuse - flaps and flapless - I beam wing,C tube, 1/2a all sheet.......
Wynn,
My interest would be full fuselage only. Plus, the model would have to look reasonably scale.
Retracts? The Corsair has gear fairings facing the wind.
Flaps working in both directions?
Charles
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Flaps temporarely put in place. Inboard flap, just a tad larger,
The wing will be removed from the fuselage to allow for the control horn to be put in place.
That will be next.
Charles
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I slid the wing out from the fuselage to do the flap horn and HDWE.
As you can see, it's not Tom Morris, it's Brodak. Not overkill but fine for this "sport model," and I already had the horn.
Nothing anyone hasn't done before, except I don't use power tools, that is, an electric drill. I still do the drilling of the flap holes by hand.
What's in the photo is all I use.
Still have to remove a tad of the TE wood where the horn wire sits and the TE has to be notched also for forward movement of the horn. Obviously.
All flap parts are test fitted and will be removed before the wing gets put in place again.
Next will be the elevator and stab hinges. No, not looking forward to that.
Ordered a special cowling for my Corsair this morning. ;D
Charles
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Little, but still progress. I'll epoxy these brass control horn wire holders in place, or I may just pin them with cut off toothpicks. Well, not really, I have bamboo skewers.
Flap, drilled for horn wire and slitted. Nothing you haven't seen before.
Charles
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Just a reminder as to the outlines of The NEW AMERICAN!
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We have gear and wheels here!!
Only placed temporarily. The aluminum gear will be attached to the belly sheeting. This sheeting is .125".
2.5" wheels will Carry the load. Wheels I had hanging around. We all have stuff just hanging around. I had the Twister wing to this model just hanging around.
I ordered Sig nitrate dope for the silk covering on the wing from the local HS. This was a week and a half ago!
Gotta love those local HS's.
Charles
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I hope your attaching that landing gear to plywood and not just sheeting.!!
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I hope your attaching that landing gear to plywood and not just sheeting.!!
Leester,
Thanks for the reply.
Yes.
You may want to "back track" and view the photos of the gear block attachment engineered "snap together" construction. n~
Yes, that's suppose to be funny.
If you look at the gear photo you will see a rectangle. Two layers of .125" plywood fit in there. So the gear attachment plywood is now .25" thick. It also has a shim so that the bottom sheeting gets glued to it.
The model is also designed to be flown without wheels. Done that before. ;D
Thanks again for the reply and interest.
Charles
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"Notching a Turtledeck"
"Once a jolly swagman camped by a billabong
Under the shade of a coolibah tree,
And he sang as he watched and waited till his billy boiled
"You'll come a-Notching a Turtledeck, with me."
Notching a Turtledeck, Notching a Turtledeck
"You'll come a-Notching a Turtledeck, with me"
And he sang as he watched and waited till his billy boiled,
"You'll come a-Notching a Turtledeck, with me."
Down came a jumbuck to drink at that billabong,
Up jumped the swagman and grabbed him with glee,
And he sang as he shoved that jumbuck in his tucker bag,
"You'll come a-Notching a Turtledeck, with me."
Notching a Turtledeck, Notching a Turtledeck
"You'll come a-Notching a Turtledeck, with me"
And he sang as he shoved that jumbuck in his tucker bag,
"You'll come a-Notching a Turtledeck, with me."
Up rode the squatter, mounted on his thoroughbred,
Down came the troopers, one, two, three,
"Where's that jolly jumbuck you've got in your tucker bag?"
"You'll come a-Notching a Turtledeck, with me."
Notching a Turtledeck, Notching a Turtledeck
"You'll come a-Notching a Turtledeck, with me"
"Where's that jolly jumbuck you've got in your tucker bag?",
"You'll come a-Notching a Turtledeck, with me."
Up jumped the swagman and sprang into the billabong,
"You'll never take me alive", said he,
And his ghost may be heard as you pass by that billabong,
"You'll come a-Notching a Turtledeck, with me."
Notching a Turtledeck, Notching a Turtledeck
"You'll come a-Notching a Turtledeck, with me"
And his ghost may be heard as you pass by that billabong,
"You'll come a-Notching a Turtledeck, with me."
Hey Mates! Great song BTW.
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I guess I am going to have to respond to this build. It is and has to be the most comprehensive build I have seen, other than one of Al Rabe's or Walter Umlands. Looks like it will be a great model to take out and fly everyday. Now is this going to be a kit or what? ??? By the way I love the construction and photos. H^^
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I guess I am going to have to respond to this build. It is and has to be the most comprehensive build I have seen, other than one of Al Rabe's or Walter Umlands. Looks like it will be a great model to take out and fly everyday. Now is this going to be a kit or what? ??? By the way I love the construction and photos. H^^
John,
Welcome! And thanks for the complement. I don't get many. n~
I get the feeling that you forced yourself to take part in this Thread? Ya know, I don't bite that hard. ;D
The New American will be offered as a kit. When and by whom remains to be determined.
I can produce it myself if I have to.
I'm doing the build this way because The New American deserves it. It will be an easy model to build and and enjoyable model to fly, with or without wheels!
And, the design construction can support just about any practical engine size. I'm using a OS LA .40 Blue case, in mine. I have a .46 also and it's tempting.
The New American is strong, sturdy and light.
No struts under the stabilizer. Special construction in that area makes this possible.
I've been asked if this is a take off on the All American?
It's entirely different than the All American in many ways, not even close actually.
You know I'll keep you posted.
I'm hinging the stab and elevator at the moment.
Thanks for the reply.
Charles
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As I said, I spent about 20 minutes with hinge tasks on the stab and elevator.
Hinge doesn't show up well.
All hinges are spaced with measurements but could be eyeballed.
Only tools I use for hinge slots are in the photo, same arrangement as for the hinge tasks with the flaps.
Yes, there's plenty of other things I'd rather do than make hinge slots. Building wings and making hinge slots, don't like doing either one.
But, ya have to.
Really slight bow in the stab and also in the elevator, really really slight. Bow facing up on the stab and bow facing down on the elevator for assembly. Probably not a perfect fix, gets by.
Charles
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This isn't just a build Thread, this is the "Instruction Manual." Lot easier than putting a paper manual together, plus you save on printing. Which BTW, the customer pays for.
To some, I'm sure this Build is "over-detailed," but, you must remember, there are some modelers that haven't had the experience others have had. The Build is really for the benifit of these modelers. Plus the Build offers a place to "review," if someone elects to build The New American.
OK! Lets see what ten more minutes got me.
I "V" sanded the elevator, hinge side obviously, to 45 degrees. No jigs, no welded angle iron or aluminum bent thingies or clamps holding whatever.
Just a simple plastic angle propped up with, just about anything to hold it. Stickyback sandpaper and away you go.
Sand some, take a peek, sand a bit more, look again. Not rocket science.
Trailing edge taper? I just prop the leading edge up a bit using whatever thickness material I need. In this case, I made good use of the fuselage side to the Twin Boom Ares, which I currently have on hold. Cute step on the fuselage side held the elevator nice nice as I slid it on the sandpaper. You can taper the TE to a sharp edge this way if you choose.
LE of the Stab, simply eyeballed a radius. Some finish sanding when both pieces are attached.
Tight fit and plenty of movement! The elevator will deflect more that what you see. Enough to get you in trouble.
Never blow sawdust away, always vacuum.
Well, only ten minutes of building and these pieces can be placed aside.
Still waiting on nitrate dope for silk covering. Or will I go with tissue?
The cliffhanger.
Charles
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It's spackling time!
Well not really, but I did a bit anyway. I generally like to give my bare wood a coat of Dr. Good before I apply any spackling or fillers.
The entire wing will receive a slight amount of board sanding, nothing drastic, remember, it's a kick around sport stunt model.
Also, you can see I placed or added radius material, balsa actually, in the corners. Looks nice and also makes the appearance that you can build. n~
Charles
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I know I'm getting close to covering and final assembly when I bring out the Dr. Good.
Here's one coat after a quick rub n buff with P150.
I'll do the other half of these parts tomorrow. I can then apply a bit more spackling, in other less obvious areas, without taking down the wood.
Charles
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Just think. The New American, started out as an idea!
Getting there!
Charles
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Still looking good. Myself I run the grain in corner gussets of the wing sheeting at 45 degrees. The corner gussets do make for a nicer covering job. Without them I always got little wrinkles in the corners. H^^
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Still looking good. Myself I run the grain in corner gussets of the wing sheeting at 45 degrees. The corner gussets do make for a nicer covering job. Without them I always got little wrinkles in the corners. H^^
John,
Thanks for the input, I appreciate it.
Are your wrinkles from "iron on" material?
I've never had a wrinkle using dope with silk or tissue.
I was going to use silk because I actually have some, but I can save some time using tissue.
Which one are you more fond of?
Charles
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Go with the silk for the open bays. Less chance of accidental punctures.
BIG Bear
RNMM/AMM
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Go with the silk for the open bays. Less chance of accidental punctures.BIG BearRNMM/AMM
OK Bill,
You made my mind up for me, silk it is.
Charles
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Back to that top block.
Bit more sanding then removal to hollow. I have a great tool made for hollowing and I'll Post the underside photo.
I'll use this Sig clear canopy which, obviously, needs to be trimmed a bit, well trimmed a lot! I wanted a wide canopy which is why I chose this size Sig canopy. Trimming is no big deal, Plus, if I make a mistake in trimming, my local HS has more!
Charles
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Hollow blocks? Or it just goes to show you, never throw anything out?
Underside carely shows left over unused stock from an old Sig Astro Hog kit. One less thing to buy. ;D
Anyone ever whittle as a kid?
Charles
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Invariably I will get a wrinkle or two in the corners. It happens with silk, nylon, silkspan, Monokote and even SLC. H^^
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Invariably I will get a wrinkle or two in the corners. It happens with silk, nylon, silkspan, Monokote and even SLC. H^^
John,
If this wrinkle issue happens with every model you cover and you can live with it, fine.
My guess, you're doing something to cause this. I would do some reviewing on methods that modelers use to apply coverings.
I haven't applied silk in over 49 years, and I won't have one single wrinkle.
You may want to get to the bottom of it.
Charles
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Ordered my nitrate and butyrate dope today, along with thinner.
Ordering silk is next.
Getting there!
Charles
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Ordered silk this morning for The New American, The International, and the Twin Boom.
I think I'll have a contest to "Name" the Twin Boom model.
I'll explain in detail, exactly what the Twin Boom is and the rules, soon.
Charles
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Well, it seems you're having fun. That's good.
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Well, it seems you're having fun. That's good.
Randy,
Thanks, I am having fun. n~
I haven't built a CL model in 49 years or so and it does feel good. Especially that The New American, as simple and basic a model as it is, was my one design.
Not a lot of interest in it. possibly when it's finished and painted. That makes a big difference.
While I've been waiting for the dope to arrive, I've been working on that 50 year old modified Ares wing.
I did Post some info and photos about this wing, and I decided to continue with it.
I'll use this wing on The International, another design I mentioned a while back. I'm almost satisfied with the fuselage design, not a straight line anywhere. This one is a cutie. Wheel pants and all.
Thanks again for the reply.
Charles
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Last chance to guess the weight of The New American framed parts.
MIDNIGHT TONIGHT!
The Witching hour.
Good luck!
Charles
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So who won the guess the weight contest and what is the weight?
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I was wondering that too, it appears that the thread owner must have deleted it somwhere along the line
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Yeah, it looks like it. He has visited this site this evening, so we know he's "home". Wonder what's going on.
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The total weight of everything in the photo was 41 oz.
Ty Marcucci was the winner.
His graphics went in the mail today.
Charles
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Back on topic.
I've applied three coats of nitrate dope to the surface of the wing. I'm told to NOT use nitrate, ever!
I'll take that advice because nitrate dries rapidly in this Florida heat AND it came from a good source. More than one actually.
My next model, most likely the twin boom or The International, will have no nitrate applied, just Butyrate.
The New American's fuselage is now glued to the wing, with no offset.
The linkage gave me a bit of difficulty, because I attempted to use some old R/C Dave Brown pushrods, but I got through it.
the Dave Brown pushrods are light and nice but the size doesn't adapt itself to Tom Morris' HDWE.
Did finally find a way to hook up TM HDWE.
I've seen worst applications. n~
Only adjustment is at the elevator.
Done, I'm living with it.
Charles
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Thank you Charles for having this contest. You are very generous.
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Thank you Charles for having this contest. You are very generous.
Crist,
Unexpected but, thank you for that.
Charles
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Few more things happening, gotta build weight someplace. ;D
Fitted and glued the turtle deck sheeting. Sheeting gets sanded at both ends and sanded to blend into the fuselage sides.
Rear tail filler blocks in place, these are lowers, there's two uppers. All act to stiffen the tail area.
Nose blocks racked and stacked waiting for sanding.
Tank area where there will be a removable tank hatch. Thinking about that construction.
F1 shows surface cut marks where I was going to remove the top half of F1 to have a slide in tank.
Rethinking that for a tank hatch.
Charles
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Well, in spite of all the craziness happening in the household the last couple of days, PC crash and all, I did manage to find time for The New American. I worked on the International's wing also. hard to pull myself away from that model because it's much more interesting.
Anyway, I glued the upper engine surround blocks in place and contoured the nose a bit. Still have a ways to go.
You can see trim lines to allow for a clean fit of the NIB OS LA .40 Blue! Cutting that away will allow for the engine to sit back where it belongs.
Thinking about that tank hatch.
OS LA .40 looks big for the model? n~
Charles
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Well, dead in the water until I get a tongue muffler, and more trimming will be required then.
Engine is placed exactly where it bolts in.
Charles
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Stab is now permanently glued, (CA'd) in position actually. Elevator will be removed for covering.
Wire skid can be seen in place, is simply sandwiched between two pieces of thin ply. A change from the original plywood skid. It was suggested I go with a length of wire. Thanks for that suggestion.
.125" soft balsa will be used to sheet the underbelly of the fuselage. Edge will get rounded.
Getting there!
Charles
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Bottom sheeting, no rocket science there.
Tank botton and tank area and tank hatch.
Tank hatch, good, bad or indifferent it's done. Now to decide how to secure it? Rubber bands?
Charles
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In spite of the fact I'm having issues with the use of clear dope, I'm still plugging away.
If my issues with clear dope can't be resolved, I'll build models with sheeted wings. That'll cure the dope issue! ;D
Well here's my progress with the tail feathers silked. Worked out well on the elevator, but there's a repair on both sides of the stab, first hole near the fuselage. When completed this repair won't be visible. 20 hours of sanding later. n~
Charles
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Are you spraying or brushing the clear dope? I usually don't sand the first coat of clear. Then it is only to slightly knock down the rough edges. Also are you putting it down thin enough? Usually takes about 8 to 10 coats before it looks like I have any dope on the fabric I cover with. Also as Sparky stated one time, "Only sand every other coat of clear dope". H^^
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imagine that, my posts are dissapearing again
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I use steel wool, rather than sandpaper, on open bay areas.
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imagine that, my posts are dissapearing again
Mark,
I all honesty, it has absolutely nothing to do with me.
You're welcome hear and so is your advice.
In fact, your advice is appreciated.
Just re-Post.
Charles
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Are you spraying or brushing the clear dope? I usually don't sand the first coat of clear. Then it is only to slightly knock down the rough edges. Also are you putting it down thin enough? Usually takes about 8 to 10 coats before it looks like I have any dope on the fabric I cover with. Also as Sparky stated one time, "Only sand every other coat of clear dope". H^^
John,
Thanks for the reply.
I'm brushing butyrate now. I'm knocking it down a bit between coats using 360. Working on The International between coats.
I did have issues and had to replace a few small pieces of silk. I believe I have 6 or 7 coats on the elevator and 4 or so on the stab.
I'm applying it right out of the can on the elevator and thinning about 25% for the stab. One or two more coats and I'll be right out of the can with the stab. No retarder.
I'll knock all this down with hopes I don't cut an edge, then I'll spray a few coats. Knock it down some more.
I have no idea yet how I'll tackle the wing. I wish it was sheeted.
Thanks for the reply and interest,
Charles
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If you are using Brodak or even SIG clear (butyrate or nitrate), I am wondering how you even get it to brush. I usually transfer the dope to mason jar and thin at least 50% before I use it. I have even had to thin it even more on some cans. The preceding is for brushing. H^^
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John,
That was my issue. Dope doesn't respond like paint at all. I'm using Randolf dope and I'm thinning it.
Brushing? No, I'm laying it on with one stroke with a fully charged brush. You can't brush, the stuff sets up to quickly.
I have no idea why color dope is even used? It's not fuel proof and has to be cleared with something that IS fuelproof.
I wonder?
Charles
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Well it's canopy time!
Never did one quite this way. My pattern ships had painted canopies and my scale models I'd sometimes make a frame.
Suggestions on this install application were generously given up by some great model builders.
Thanks to all those modelers who offered and shared! As you can see, I took your advice!
I'll probably scratch the entire canopy and clear it along with the model, that's been going on for years.
I'm still rethinking color dope. Seems pointless to use the stuff because it's not fuel proof and has to be cleared.
My base coat clear coat experience is all I know. Worked extremely well for a good number of years, so why change a winning game?
Charles
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Still looking good. H^^
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HI Charles,
Colored Butyrate is as "fuel proof" as the clear Butyrate. Nitrate, however, is not "hot fuel proof" in colors or clear.
BIG Bear
RNMM/AMM
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HI Charles,Colored Butyrate is as "fuel proof" as the clear Butyrate. Nitrate, however, is not "hot fuel proof" in colors or clear.BIG BearRNMM/AMM
Bill,
My Mentor, where have you been?
OK, understandable with the Butyrate colors being fuel proof.
But are they as fuel proof as two part automotive clears? No point in naming a brand.
What say on that?
Charles
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Bill,
My Mentor, where have you been?
OK, understandable with the Butyrate colors being fuel proof.
But are they as fuel proof as two part automotive clears? No point in naming a brand.
What say on that?
Charles
Hi Charles,
The automotive urethane clear is much more hot fuel resistant than any of the "lacquer types". (Dope is a "lacquer type") As you know, epoxy paint is the most resistant. I wish Hobbypoxy was still around.
Bill
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Hi Charles,
The automotive urethane clear is much more hot fuel resistant than any of the "lacquer types". (Dope is a "lacquer type") As you know, epoxy paint is the most resistant. I wish Hobbypoxy was still around.
KlassKote is still around and it's essentially identical to Hobbypoxy.
Brett
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I always thought Hobbypoxy was fuel proof, but I got out a model I painted with Hobbypoxy red back in 1970 and discovered in late 2010 that rubbing alcohol softened the finish. That was disappointing.
SK
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I always thought Hobbypoxy was fuel proof, but I got out a model I painted with Hobbypoxy red back in 1970 and discovered in late 2010 that rubbing alcohol softened the finish. That was disappointing.
Maybe it ages? Or could you have possibly been less talented at following directions in 1970, and have mixed it incorrectly?
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Maybe it wasn't Hobbypoxy?
1970!
I'd have a difficult time rembering where I put the model. n~
Charles
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Well,
Chipping away trying to progress with The New American.
Purchased a great tongue muffler and NVA for the OS LA 40 Blue which will power this model. Now I can trim the muffler area at the nose and get that done.
I used Polyspan/Polyester Tissue for the first open area as a test. Just followed the directions that came with the product.
I do like the stuff, but I believe I prefer using silk. I will use this material for the other bottom wing, however, I believe I'll use silk on the wing tops.
Photo shows wing bottom with applied Polyester Tissue. Same stuff as the BRAND Polyspan.
Taxing working the wingtip, stuff isn't all that forgiving, at least not like silk is.
Wingtip photo tells it all, small struggle there. Couple of coats of that liquid Gold, also known as clear Dope, and that fuzz will sand out smooth.
Plugging away.
Charles
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Stay with the same covering for both surfaces. The silk may shrink a little tighter than the Poly will. H^^
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Stay with the same covering for both surfaces. The silk may shrink a little tighter than the Poly will. H^^
I agree Doc! Switching covering from top to bottom of a wing panel is inviting warps.
BIG Bear
RNMM/AMM
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OK guys,
You made it clear.
As you can see, only one panel is covered with Polyspan. Do I remove the Polyspan and cover all four panels with silk, or do I continue with the polyspan on the other three?
Polyspan doesn't feel all that strong?
Charles
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OK guys,
You made it clear.
As you can see, only one panel is covered with Polyspan. Do I remove the Polyspan and cover all four panels with silk, or do I continue with the polyspan on the other three?
Polyspan doesn't feel all that strong?
Charles
It's up to you as to whether you cover the rest w/Polyspan or strip it off and switch to silk.
BIG Bear
RNMM/AMM
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It's up to you as to whether you cover the rest w/Polyspan or strip it off and switch to silk.BIGBearRNMM/AMM
Bill,
Obviously I'm trying to make a decision based on information received from users of the product.
Charles
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Bill,
Obviously I'm trying to make a decision based on information received from users of the product.
Charles
Obviously! But we have responded in your thread about Polyspan, so just what information do you want? It's a matter of personal choice. I think by now that you know the characteristics of Polyspan and silk. The Polyspan will take less clear to fill compared to silk. Both are attached with dope. The Polyspan is shrunk with a heat gun, while silk shrinks through drying and tautening dope. ???
BIG Bear
RNMM/AMM
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Obviously! But we have responded in your thread about Polyspan, so just what information do you want? It's a matter of personal choice. I think by now that you know the characteristics of Polyspan and silk. The Polyspan will take less clear to fill compared to silk. Both are attached with dope. The Polyspan is shrunk with a heat gun, while silk shrinks through drying and tautening dope. ???BIG BearRNMM/AMM
Bill,
I think I'm waiting for someone to say they wern't all that impressed with it.
As I wasn't.
The Thread hasn't been given a chance yet.
It always seems that you get a couple or three of replies and there isn't anything else to say.
Probably why the hundreds of "silent" modelers don't bother to Post.
Charles
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Using silk, silkspan or tissue, I cover both sides of the wing, then dry with the wing held vertical so that one side does not dry faster than the other. Friends use your covering material with good results, but I have not tried it. Also, with your material, people say to get several coats of dope on before sanding, then be very careful, or you create a fuzzy mess. I don't sand over open bays, but rather use steel wool.
You have started out to learn how to cover and finish with silk. I would suggest sticking with silk until you become a master, then think about new things you might learn how to do. Flitting from one thing to another is not a good way to progress.
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For me Poly-Span is easier to use. I have used it on at least 6 airplanes and two were I-Beamers. Have to whatch the heat when shrinking. But a small scrap peice that is torn out of the scraps makes a neat repair you can't see once done. H^^
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John,
It's such a beautiful day, I see flowers everywhere. n~
Charles
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Well, while I'm waiting for my Sig dope to arrive I accomplished a few more tasks on The New American.
As I said, I removed the Polyspan from that one panel, boarded it out and you would never know that I had Polyspan doped to it. Wood is an amazing thing.
I mounted the engine with the tongue muffler in place, and, as you can see, I had to trim a bit of the fuselage away, dito for the NVA needle. A little bit of a notch there for that.
I also cut the canopy which I'll be using, it was from sig. I did cut a recess area into the fuselage sides for the canopy sides to fit recessed and I also cut a groove for the forward part of the canopy. I'll probably use Epoxy and Micro-Balloons to hold it in place plus to shape the contoured fit.
Canopy still isn't in place yet, but this photo shows The New American an you can get an idea of the lines of the model. The model's framing is completed, covering, flaps, elevator and that's about it. Gear optional, although I will have gear on this New American.
Interesting, the model balances quite well for the stage it's at.
I'm looking forward to completing the New American with paint and clear. Be nice to get it in the air to see how the model flies.
Charles
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Looking good. H^^
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Looking good. H^^
Thank you John,
You're still my favorite Poster.
Charles
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Well, It's been a while but I'm back on The New American again!
No secrete I haven't applied silk since the 60's, so my silk and dope experience on my Flite Streak, a few weeks ago actually, will allow me to progress over to the New American with a bit more confidence. My thanks go out to all my peers, who were generous in providing great tips and information on silk n' doping. Thanks, you're a great bunch of guys!
I boarded/sanded The New American for the first time after applying two coats of Dr. Good and two generous coats of dope.
I had some areas that needed a bit of "skim" filling and also boarded these areas after applying resin and micro-balloon mixed filler. I love that stuff, been using it forever!
I don't enter contests and this model is built for punishment, so I won't be all that fussy with hours and hours of sanding. I also don't have the time for that.
All of this will get vacuumed and cleaned, actually a must. Possibly two or three coats of dope and I'll me ready to silk the wings and fuselage, including the tank cover and rudder. As you can see, the stab and 24" elevator are already silked.
I silked these areas early on, before the Flite Streak actually, and did have a bit of trouble, but like I said, all my peers gave me exactly what I needed in information for me to correct my errors and move forward.
Thanks again guys!
Charles
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Well, I've been really busy, but in spite of that, I'm back working on "The New American."
I brushed on the frame, the last coat of Sig dope, I'll scratch this up a tad and the next task will be to apply the silk. I have to take the trip to the local HS for some small "T" pins first. Tomorrow.
I also finished detailing the opening for the adjustable leadouts. Photos show maximum forward and maximum rear adjustment. The copper tubes stay in place and will offer less abuse, in that area, than the movement of the leadouts.
Charles
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Well, as usual I'm not shy about my model building, and certainly I've made it quite clear I haven't applied silk since the early 60's. No crime there.
I did however apply silk to the tail feathers of The New American and managed to get my Flite Streak silked.
I really hope I have the hang of it and I did feel comfortable, not over confident, but just comfortable, applying silk to the wing of The New American.
Here's the results, obviously still pinned.
Am I on track, is this what it should look like? Notice I didn't use "T" pins at the LE area. I found this not necessary.
Sig's instructions show no effort or photos using pins? I did take advice and wash/rinse out the silk, twice actually. I found the silk a bit stiff new out of the package. Also, I'm using Sig's #4, which is the heavy grade of silk.
One panel down and only three more to go.
Charles
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Lookin' good #^
Marcus
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author=MarcusCordeiro, Lookin' good Marcus
Marcus,
Well thank you for that. It is starting to look like a model, slowly, but starting.
Well, as the saga continues.
I applied silk to the other side of my outboard wing.
I like pins. :## They hold the silk while I pull the living bejeasus on the other end!
Otherwise, and with all honesty, I don't think I'd be able to get the silk as tight without them, or maybe I should say, work as fast. Besides, I don't mind doing it wrong. I don't use fingers either.
Anyway, and as usual, I'm not giving advice. You can apply your silk any way your little heart desires.
I placed a straight edge on the dried undoped silk and I cannot slide a piece of paper under it at the center. Is that tight enough?
The cap strips are placed 2.75? apart.
Just two more sides to go and I can attach the flaps!
I'm getting there!
Charles
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Here's the wing top after one only one coat of dope. Also you can see the brush I'm using for the first coats only. It's a hard artist's brush and I change to a softer wider brush once I have a the weave filled. Discovered this with brush testing.
Turned out to be the most suitable brush because it's stiff. I apply the dope with very little pressure. Starting with the brush vertical then to an angle of 45 degrees when the stroke is completed. Gravity helps so thank you Mr. Isaac Newton.
Please! Do not try this at home.
Charles
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I can't believe I've found the time to progress with The New American. It's only because I'm neglecting other things.
Well,
The entire model is now silked. Wings anyway. The silk has been given two coats of dope and I've started apply my "build up" coats. I change brushes here.
I may have mentioned this little guy before. 1.5" Red Sable brush available at any Art Supply store.
I just happen to have some hanging around. :+
Here's the wing with the first coat of non-tautening dope. I don't use tautening dope.
And here's my little buddy!
Charles
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There are just some places where using your fingers, to get the silk to lay down, is necessary.
Bummer.
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Well,
A bit more progress.
I test assembled the flaps and elevator for a brief moment. Just to check alignment.
I don't see where there will be any difficulty assembling the flaps and getting them tight. They fit nicely and both are set at the same angle. I hate bending .125" wire.
I cut two wing/flap fillets and taped the left side in place just for the photo. Fits!
Also here's a few photos of The New American assembled. well, for a brief moment anyway.
Interesting thing is The New American has little in common with the All America. Very different models, where no measurements are the same, including a very different airfoil.
Designed to be a sport model that can take a beating and strong enough for any engine that you can get the model balanced with!
The only thing or things I would change so far is the wing sheeting. I used 3/32" and the model would have been fine with 1/16". Could have been a weight saver. Possibly sans flaps. Flaps do create a bit more work, They have to be made, aligned, put in place and the extra HDWE. A killer?
I hope the design is pleasing, The New American is available as a builder's kit.
Charles
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No, I'm not losing interest in The LOSER, hardly. In fact, I'm putting in a bit of time today.
I just stumbled onto these flap fillits looking for a part for The LOSER.
I just decided to glue them on so I don't lose them.
Laminated, three pieces, center pice is hollow. It all helps.
I'll probably prime The New American when I prime The LOSER.
I noticed the tank hatch warped/arched a bit on one side. Dope? Was a bit thin on that side. I'll have to tend to it.
Charles
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Didn't want to waste any of the filler from The LOSER, so the left over went on The New American.
Had enough left over for the bottom. First coat anyway.
Hatch is next.
Charles
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Well,
Here's what the last ten minutes got me. One fixed hatch.
Back to The LOSER.
Charles
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Dug The New American and took the vacuum to it, thing got a bit dusty.
Attached the flaps. Done!
Flap hinges will get pinned from underneath.
Gaps are tight!
Charles
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Chip, chip, chipping away.
Well, that's how you get them done when you can't spend hours at a time working on them. ;D
I did get some primer, on the elevator.
I used the NAPA #540 primer. Nice stuff but a can doesn't go very far. Wish it had a better "fan type" tip also.
Sprayed the New American's elevator when I put primer on some of the Mig-3 control surface parts. Mig-3, formally called The LOSER. Putting all my time in that.
Here you see just one coat of primer over 2000 coats of dope. n~
I'll put one more light coat then knock it down with 400 or 600. Not sure yet?
For new comers who may not know the kit, I posted a photo of the New American.
Charles
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I used the NAPA #540 primer. Nice stuff but a can doesn't go very far. Wish it had a better "fan type" tip also.
It takes 5 cans to do a full size stunt ship. Spray it on and sand it off. Most of it ends up on the floor.
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It takes 5 cans to do a full size stunt ship. Spray it on and sand it off. Most of it ends up on the floor.
Robert,
Less than 20.00 bucks!! A steal when you consider the quality of the product! And how!
The only other aerosol can product, that I now remember using of similar quility but unfortunately not gray, is Spies Hecker's red brown primer. I mentioned this product years ago. 22.00 for one can!!! Possibly more now.
I'm going to try to get some primer on the rest of the New American as I progress with priming the Mig-3.
I picked up two more cans of that NAPA primer and have ordered spot putty. 4.5oz. tube under 6.00. Air dries. They have some that is a chemical two part mix. Probably heavier? I have some pin holes. Lack of coats of dope.
I'd love to get this New American completed. What's it been, only 9 or 10 years? LL~ LL~
I'll bet, if someone took the New American kit on, they'd get their's completed well before mine.
Charles
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I was looking at old Threads and stumbled onto my Thread on The New American.
Thought I'd update it because there are many new members who have no idea what they have missed. LL~
The New American is Gone. It's now called the ARGO.
Here's a link for those interested.
http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php/topic,34765.msg352745.html#msg352745
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Charles, I am enjoying the heck out of this build thread. Stay focused and finish the project. H^^
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Charles, I am enjoying the heck out of this build thread. Stay focused and finish the project. H^^
Milton,
What a surprise! Thanks for the reply and the complement.
It's been a long haul.
I've had a great deal of fun designing the model in my drawing program and sending off the vector file for laser cutting.
I made a few mistakes with the choice of wood thickness, so I've learned a great deal from putting this model together.
The modified Sig Banshee wing wasn't all that bad a choice, especially that I cap striped it which increased the airfoil thickness by .1875". Could have had less LE sheeting and used 1/16 instead of 3/32. Oh well.
The model is and was overbuilt.
The conversion to "E," IC to electric, really helped me learn about the construction of "E" powered models.
Similar in many ways and different in others. Possibly for better or worst, there could be conversations about both. Even arguements. LL~
I can tell you this, it's been a great deal of fun seeing the model develop into what it is now. I'm really happy with the "ARGO."
Cobra powered, 2820/14, and a Hyperon 4S 2500mAh battery pack. I don't have the ca$h at the moment to purchased other needed on board gear. Soon.
I did vacuum the model today and sanded down a bit of putty which I had in some needed areas.
Might be a bit on the heavy side for it's size, but it has plenty of room for motor or battery changes.
Here are the updated photos.
Thanks again for the reply and your interest.
Prtobably should add this link. The build from IC to E.
http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php/topic,34230.0.html
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That's sure a pretty thing, Charles...
'Argo', eh? Abrupt turn, I'd say... Looks fast just sitting there.
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That's sure a pretty thing, Charles...
'Argo', eh? Abrupt turn, I'd say... Looks fast just sitting there.
Mike,
Sorry I'm late, I just saw your Post reply.
Yes, it does look fast.
This model has issues with weight. I should have sheeted the wings with 1/16" stock but used 3/32.
Same with the ribs and capstrips. I would do it again but differently.
I'll probably keep this model tabled because I cannot spend any money in the area of electric stuff at the moment.
I'm pulling R/C stuff off my shelves, that I built or have partically framed, years ago. Converting to CL is easy and I have engines, so, I don't have to spend any dollars, at least not large dollars.
So it will be some time before "ARGO" gets in the air.
Thanks for the reply.
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I'm glad you moved this out of the cobwebs and into the light. Don't know how I missed this whole build. but suffice it to say, I enjoyed all 3 pages. I'd sure like to see it finished..... ::)
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I'm glad you moved this out of the cobwebs and into the light. Don't know how I missed this whole build. but suffice it to say, I enjoyed all 3 pages. I'd sure like to see it finished..... ::)
John,
I just read your reply. Sorry I took so long to see it, read it? n~
Anyway, you really looked through all three pages or are you just trying to make me feel good? #^
I do hope to finish this model during the winter. Winter? This is Florida. LL~ LL~ LL~
I have a scheme for the ARGO, that alone gives me ambition. ;D
Brick by brick.
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Hello:
Great build thread! I enjoyed it very much.
Do you get time to fly all of the planes that you build? I would love to see them in flight. How about some YouTube type of movies of your planes in action?
Stay well my friend.
Frank
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I will have to admit that once in a while I look at your posts and keep hoping that one day you will finish a plane and get it flying. Of course I have several planes waiting for me to finish, but they get side tracked by others that get my attention. The Hobo and Chupim20 are ready for test flights. Need to get the canard back out since it ahs been put back together with some mods. Also have someone video your first flights.
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I will have to admit that once in a while I look at your posts and keep hoping that one day you will finish a plane and get it flying. Of course I have several planes waiting for me to finish, but they get side tracked by others that get my attention. The Hobo and Chupim20 are ready for test flights. Need to get the canard back out since it ahs been put back together with some mods. Also have someone video your first flights.
John,
I think we all lose interest in projects from time to time, I know I do.
I did put together an ARF Pathfinder which I'm currently flying.
The rest, I just love building and finishing.
Hey! You're building the Chupin 20! H^^
That is really a nice looking model.
Post a photo or three!
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Here it is in paint. it is ready for test flying with Brodak 25 for motivation.
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Here it is in paint. it is ready for test flying with Brodak 25 for motivation.
John,
Wow! I really like that green, good choice. Trim colors?
Aerosol can? Brand? Clear coat?
Cowling?
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It is Rustoleum spray green and the numbers I put on later are cut from Monokote. No clear coat.
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It is Rustoleum spray green and the numbers I put on later are cut from Monokote. No clear coat.
John,
No clear! H^^ That's a time saver.
It really would be nice to eliminate that final clear coat on some models.
You don't think one bit of color will stain a clean off rag with a tad of green? You have this much confidence in Rust-o-leum aerosol paint?
Exactly what Rust-o-leum did you use? There are a few different offerings?
I see you elected to paint the control surfaces in place. Correct?
Fully assembled, you'll have a great looking model there.
Looking forward to seeing what you have in mind with your white trim?
PM me.
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Have been using high gloss colors with no problems. Of course I let it cure for several weeks.
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Have been using high gloss colors with no problems. Of course I let it cure for several weeks.
John,
I'm not sure if the question, as to Rust-O-Leum being completely fuel proof, will ever be officially answered? Some say yes and others say they have stained rags?
Rusty Rattle Can is the expert. I forgot what he uses and I think I may look for his Posts on that.
I do sand every color anyway to make sure next color sticks, so a clear coat is the final fix to hide the sanding.
I just used a flat water base clear over an area on the Mig-3 and it bit and adheared well. That area will still get cleared with auto paint. Well, so will the whole model.
John,
Photo when you get the trim on your Chupim 20?
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Hello Charles:
Great build post! Than you very much for sharing it with us!
Be well my friend,
Frank McCune
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excellent and CLEAN bulding! no gaps, no glue fussy!
congratulations man!
i will build one for myself as well!
but from plans...no luxury laser cut, unfortunately!
what about paint scheme?
best regards from brazil!
Fred
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Hello Charles:
Great build post! Than you very much for sharing it with us!
Be well my friend,
Frank McCune
Frank,
Thanks for the reply, but this was an old Thread. It's had no activity for a year.
You probably don't recognize the model, but it ended up as the ARGO Spectre 007.
I went from "E" back to "IC."
Fred,
Thanks for the reply also. There's Threads here and there on this model. You probably didn't see the finished model.
Here it is.
Thanks for the replies.
Charles
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Jeeze Charles. Every time I see this model I think the only thing that will make it better, is if it was in my hobby room! Really a stunning model. H^^
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Jeeze Charles. Every time I see this model I think the only thing that will make it better, is if it was in my hobby room! Really a stunning model. H^^
Hey! Hey! Glenn.
Thanks for the reply. The Thread is a year old and I'm surprised, one of the few that it wasn't locked. H^^ H^^ H^^ H^^
Yes, I'm kidding.
I'll never pass up an opportunity to Post a photo of my models. ;D
Glenn, thanks again for the reply.
Charles
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Well,
Here's what the last ten minutes got me. One fixed hatch.
Back to The LOSER.
Charles
Ok, what the heck is THE LOSER?
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Ok, what the heck is THE LOSER?
Kevin,
The Loser actually became the Mig-3. I renamed it during construction.
There's a "Loser" build at this link over at CFC Graphic's vendor's corner.
https://stunthanger.com/smf/cfc-graphics/'mig-3-reconnaissance-aircraft-and-warbird!'/
There's a bunch of Builds and stuff going on over at CFC Graphics vendor's corner.
including your "show stopping," Spitfire build! And what a Spitfire that honey is!
Many have never been at CFC Graphics.
CB