Fiberglass fraying, unraveling, and distorting is a pain in the rear for me. Here is a technique some will criticize, but I like. I’ll show a small example – ‘glassing a profile nose.

(Pic 1) First, mix up a dab of washable white glue, thinned 50/50 with water. I’ve tried a thinner 2/3 water and 1/3 adhesive mix, but edge raveling was a problem.

(Pic 2) Tape down the portion of the fiberglass to a sheet of plate glass, smoothing and straightening the warp and woof. Brush on the thinned glue, keeping the ‘glass flat on the glass – no wrinkles, bubbles, or distortion. I marked a couple of dots with a felt tip showing a rough outline to brush.

(No Pic) Dab the glue completely off the brushed area with wadded paper towels. Dab straight up and down so the fiberglass does not distort. Continue until the cloth feels nearly dry, and no adhesive is visible filling the gaps between threads. Let dry overnight.

(Pics 3 & 4) Trim the starched fiberglass from the larger sheet with an X-Acto or some such. It doesn’t take an overly sharp blade to cut cleanly with no raveling at all. The working piece lifts easily from the glass (if you dabbed enough). I use a single edge blade to lift a corner.

(Pic 5) This fuzzy pic shows the cut piece draped loosely over the nose. The starched  fiberglass has about the same feel as dry heavy silkspan. I’ve not tried this on compound curves as yet, but I think it will do fine.

You might be concerned that the glass is not a strong, since the “starch” can prevent full penetration the epoxy into the cloth by partially pre-filling it. However, if you try it, I believe that concern will disappear.

I’m not sure if anyone else uses this, or a similar technique on ‘glass or silk. I don’t recall seeing it on any of the forums. I’d be interested in any variations or critiques.

I wasn’t sure about the proper use of the terms “ravel” and “unravel” – Check this out, if you are not sure either http://theurbansherpa.com/permalink.php?id=1766

   Larry Fulwider

The method I use, is to simply spray with hairspray, (the Firm hold variety!) this holds the fibres tight enough to cut to shape with sharp scissors !

Cheers       Neville

Larry, that's what this wonderful forum is for, to share ideas and pass on info. to help make life a little easier for us all!!! I learnt the the hairspray method when I used to cover R/C glider wings in 1/2 oz glass. I also used to pour the resin down the centre of the wing, and then spread out to the T/E and L/E with an old credit card, then use a paper towel roll to mop up the excess resin.
I've been whittling balsa for about 50 years now, and there is always something new to learn.
Glad to be of some help.

Cheers     Neville

. . .  I spread it out as thin as I can get it, then hang the material by its edge with a clothespin(s) to air dry. . . .

Try the plate glass method instead of hanging. You'll like it! No little wrinkles of any kind anywhere.

Works well for cloth hinge material too, you can cut and handle hinges to your heart's content without (un)raveling.

Right! I didn't mention hinges is the handiest application of the method, even on the pre-cut Tom Morris ones

Concerning the logic of English, I always wondered about "flammable" and "inflammable".

Or "thaw" and "unthaw". English is interesting.

I like the teacher lecturing on double negatives. Saying "I don't have no money" literally says you do have money, because what you don't have is no money.

The teacher mused, "so a double negative implies a positive" -- then chuckled, "but a double positive never implies a negative!"

From the back of the room, "Yeah, Right" 

       Larry Fulwider