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Building Tips and technical articles. => Building techniques => Topic started by: jim gilmore on October 16, 2010, 08:42:13 PM

Title: !/2A building questions..
Post by: jim gilmore on October 16, 2010, 08:42:13 PM
I stuck this here in building because it's about Building more than the actual model size.
First off I plan to pre color my silkspan  or tissue before I cover the wing.  But that does bring up a few questions.
Basically most wings are built with 1/16 or 3/32 or even 1/8 as the basic material.
I'm considering trying something totally new here.
Nothing bigger than 1/8 and the majority of the build will be 1/20 or even 1/32 material.
I am thinking though of using a 1/32 spar and a 1/32 top cap spar with 1/8 stringers to stiffen the edges of the cap.
I'm going to draw it up by hand later and try to include a picture of the drawing.
I hope that I'll be building in November. Have to have the ex send me a few things from my rv to start construction.
The big 3 questions that come into play here are.
How light can I build it?
Will elmers or tightbond watered down work?
and can I make it stiff enough to carry the tissue paper with out having it tear from stress?

Title: Re: !/2A building questions..
Post by: minnesotamodeler on October 16, 2010, 09:26:18 PM
Having trouble picturing exactly what construction you're contemplating, I'll let others answer that...but I can tell you, Elmers or Titebond yellow glue (carpenter's glue) works fine, straight from the bottle.  I never tried watering it down.

Well, I'll put in 2c worth on construction after all:  I often use 1/32" 2-piece TE and wing planking, center section or C-tube.  Also a couple of my designs use 1/16" thick spars set on edge.  No problem.
 
Title: Re: !/2A building questions..
Post by: Jim Thomerson on October 16, 2010, 09:36:47 PM
I've used 1/8 sq spars top and bottom with no webbing, and 1/8 x 1/16 top and bottom further back.  1/8 sq trailing edge with diagonal 1/16 sq braces from the back 1/8 x 1 /16 spar to the trailing edge.  1/4 sq leading edge set on edge. w/ 1/16 ribs.  This on a 32 in span, flapped, full stunter with TD 049.  I was looking at the plan and rib pattern the other day.  May have to do another one as I really liked that airplane. 
Title: Re: !/2A building questions..
Post by: Larry Renger on November 20, 2010, 04:18:48 PM
The main problem with 1/2A structures is to not break them while building them.  I have never had one fail in flight, but had to patch spars right and left while building.  And I am not alone in this.  Bart Klapinski is building a stunning I-Beamer and says that it is the most difficult model he has ever tackled due to part breakage.  (Do a search on his name to see the model.  It is unbelievable)
Title: Re: !/2A building questions..
Post by: Steve Helmick on November 21, 2010, 10:00:00 PM
Larry...I tried the search for "Bart Klapinski" and it asked me if I didn't want to search for "Barty jalapenos". I'm serious! But I did think it was pretty funny... LL~ Steve
Title: Re: !/2A building questions..
Post by: jim gilmore on November 22, 2010, 08:34:01 AM
I searched and found a link to him on face book. I left a message but not sure If I will get a reply. Maybe you can get him to upload some photo's.
Title: Re: !/2A building questions..
Post by: 50+AirYears on November 30, 2010, 12:50:57 PM
Check out one of the Free Flight websites such as Hippocketaeronautics.com.  For the FFers who build Pistachio, Walnut, and Peanut scale rubber powered, or glow powered free flight models, precolored and preprinted lightweight silkspan on even 1/32" square structures is a way of life.  Preshrunk preprinted tissue, UHU glue sticks, or thinned white glue for attachment, and even some oddball ideas, like using an Acrylic floor polish like Future instead of clear dope.  Even ideas on using crtain brands of giftwrap tissue for sometimes intricate color schemes without the hastle and weight of paint.  In fact, one of the local FF club members, Dennis Norman,  has even had articles published on computer printing on the covering for scale models that includes panel lines, rivets, doors and access hatches as well as expected color schemes, insignas, and lettering.