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Electric Conversion Kit for the Vector Full Build Kit

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Dennis Adamisin:
http://brodak.com/electric/conversion-kits/vector-40-electric-conversion.html
Stock #BH-1948

This is a kit of parts to convert a Vector 40 FULL BUILD KIT for electric power. Installation of the Brodak EPS-40 system is shown but other components and systems could also be used. This conversion was to make it fit the Vector 40 with minimal tear-up. It is also adaptable to similar size designs that measure 2” inside dimension between the fuselage sides. This installation features a through-the-firewall style mount which allows the front end to be built without a removable cowl.  The motor is installed through the top side battery hatch and slid forward witht eh X-plate being bolted to the BACK of the firewall  The conversion includes modifying the fuselage for a top side battery hatch.

Gil Mc Millan:
Hi Dennis, I just received my ARF Vector & Vector Electric Conversation Kit. Is it possible that you have instructions for converting ARF's & ARC's ? I'm sure that I can figure out how to get the new E parts in, but I'm unsure of what all to remove. Any suggestions &/or pictures will be appreciated.   FYI....the front lead out cable was just threaded through the bell crank hole & bent back.....NO CRIMP OR SWEDGE, if the tube was ever there, it's somewhere inside the wing. I'm sure that I can deal with the problem, it's just disappointing, but I'm glad it didn't look OK & slip lose later (in flight).
Thanks, Gil

Dennis Adamisin:
Hi Gil
First off, Brodak stands behind their products, do no hesitate to call them and send it back for a replacement or refund if so wish.  I agree that what you encountered should have NEVER happened.

The front end construction of the Vector ARF differs quite a bit from the full build kit.  Notably, the full build kit displaces the motor mounts down 3/16" from the top of the fuselage, so the nose ring (and front end blocks) are also in a different location.  I think the Electric Conversion Kit will work if:

* Remove the motor mounts (not nearly as hard as it sounds)
* Remove the nose ring and the supporting block
* Remove the top sheeting back to the second bulkhead (just ahead of the wing)
* Remove the firewall

For the new parts:
* I think you have to reshape the top of the firewall to match the ARF
* Carefully align the new firewall with respect to the fuselage top
* Plan on permanently installing the cowl & chin scoop,  you might have to trim off some of the bottom of the firewall to fit the cowl.
* Install new nose block & nose ring
* Install new top hatch for battery

Carve & sand & shape then cover & finish!

Gil Mc Millan:
Thank you very much Dennis, now I wont be hesitant to start destruction of my Vector nose section, thinking that I may be removing more than necessary.
I'm not concerned at all about the lead outs, from what I have read about ARF's & lead outs on this forum, I was going to replace them & the bell crank in any event. I don't consider it to reflect poorly on Brodak, more so on the Chinese ARF builder.
 Thanks again, Gil
 

Gil Mc Millan:
Picture of bell crank to lead out connection......to see if I could post the pic

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