This is my T-Rex ARC almost ready to start the finish. Going to paint the fuselage with Nelson paint and cover the wings with Ultracote. Trying something different on the fuselage, instead of my normal carbon fiber put on with dope I'm going to use fiberglass put on using Nelson paint. I did the cowl with fiberglass/finishing resin but believe Nelson clear will work just as well and be a bit easier to sand. What I'm not comfortable with is using a water based product directly on balsa so might put down a coat of thinned finish resin first. Also will try using Nelson clear mixed with zinc stearate for a filler. If this works like I hope it just may be the end of my dope usage.

Mods to the basic kit were first installing a Saito 56 Golden Knight on it's side. Didn't use the extra 1/4 inch firewall, instead I used a 1/8 ply copy to locate the holes and put the blind nuts in the existing firewall. This allowed me to move the engine back about 1/4 inch. Rather than cut the nose off I'll make an aluminum spacer to put between the prop and engine drive washer, the Saito 56 shaft is plenty long enough. Had to go in through the top to get the top blind nuts in but feel it was worth it.

Discovered the tank floor is a full 1/4 inch thick plywood piece with a plywood support going all the way to the top of the fuselage. Felt this was a bit overkill so while I had access used a Forster bit to cut through 1/2 (about 1/8 inch) the plywood tank floor and remove a little more weight. Had to add 2 1/2 ounces of tail weight to the ARF I built for a friend with a Saito 62 and am hoping I can save a little of that extra weight.

Didn't care for the canopy so removed it and will use a copy of the one that came with the Sterling Skylark. It's a WW2 canopy that's a bit shorter and I think it looks better. Moved the fin back and added an adjustable rudder, glued in and sealed the right rear access hatch, using Tom Morris hardware and only need access from one side. Adding a tailweight box finished off all the fuselage mods.

I installed shear webs in the wing trailing edge and the first bay at the spar, this really stiffened up the wing. Sanded 1/16 off the flaps using the rod method and sheeted both sides with 1/32 balsa. Used 1/32 plywood over the control horn locations and heated the control horn to take the temper out in case I need to tweak the flaps. Also sheeted the elevators with 1/32 balsa. This made both the flaps and elevators dead straight and plenty stiff.

Now final sanding and the hard part starts...

Forgot, also added another piece of plywood on the inside of the fuselage under the tail wheel with a couple blind nuts for a removable tail wheel. Saw this on the first Legacy I built and liked it so much I do it on every stunt ship I build.

Bob
I wish I had put the smaller canopy on my T-Rex. I had the canopy and got lazy. I’m sorry now.  Looks great.
Willis

Looks really good Bob. I think you made all the right moves. If I do another I think I will try my Saito 56. Keep on keeping on......Grins

You said it, Too much work to save a few ounces on an already built fuselage. There is a way to figure exactly how much it would take but too many variables in wood and finish for me to be exact. I would estimate on Tom's it should have been about an inch. On this one 3/4 would probably get it because of the added weight of the sheeted flaps, elevators and removable tail wheel.

Discovered the tank floor is a full 1/4 inch thick plywood piece with a plywood support going all the way to the top of the fuselage. Felt this was a bit overkill

 

Its not...

In fact, I am looking to add more beef to the nose on the next run.

I do NOT recommend anyone Swiss cheesing the nose.  Especially with electric...