I know Steve has sold a bunch of these. Has anyone actually built (assembled) one and flown it?

Results? Recommendations? Modifications? Weight? Engine choice?

Ralph

For those who have not been fortunate to see one of steve Moons new offering it is a treat. First off is the presence of real maple mounts, a front end that will actually stay together and an open construction that makes it so easy to drop the tank in from the front in a hassle free manner.  the cowl is fibreglass and will fit flush with the bottom, not like those ugly T/F cowls. Controls are Tom Morris type with differential horn cranks. Control is not 1:1 though but I don't think that it is very problimatical as my Noblers don't have it either.they consisit of Morris type bellcrank, c/f pushrods, very nice fitting for the rods and Rocket city type ball links, very meaty and have a very good fit to them. Construction is conventional and the wood is very good, most glue joints that I saw were done well, but the glue type is unknown. It is not however, hot glue, as many think that all arf's use it.
I'll be starting mine as soon as the current project gets off the bench. Power will be a Brodak 40 and I'll paint directly over the SLC covering. Oh did I mention that the thing is reasonably light and straight and the wing has weight box and adjustable L/O and the covering on all surfaces was well applied and had no wrinkles anywhere when the box was opened.
I would say that we are looking at a 2nd generation arf. Your inputs are apparently being listened to and changes are being made for the better.
Dennis

Most places are dropping appearace points from what I see on contest flyers.  Some are having pilots choice or concours awards.  Besides I think I can make up the few points I might get.  Just need to concentrate more on having fun.  DOC Holliday

Just look at some of the contests that are run around the world in other countries using the FAI rules.  A lot of great looking planes out there.  There are those that can build,  those that can finish, those that can design and finally those that can do all three.  Me, I just get by.  DOC Holliday

Anyone have their GN flying yet? I just unpacked mine in anticipation of getting it started. I'm planning to apply silkspan over the SLC. Upon close inspection I found a few areas ( limited to the flaps and a few locations on the wing) where SLC covering either has trapped air bubble or small  wrinkles or has lifted from the wood-  has anyone else encountered this? I will need to reseal- but have not worked with SLC covering before-is it easier if  I use a hot air gun with a cloth to apply pressure or use the sealing iron? How much heat does SLC need?

Have not decided on engine yet- first choice is B40 - alternate is my great running ceramic P&L Fox35 currently installed in my Smoothie or the new EVO36 ( not yet broken in)
Lyle

  Where does it balance???

      Thanks Lyle, I didn't see it in the instructions with the component kit.

I don't have mine flying yet, but I've got it all together.  Went together very nicely.  I decided to try covering the SLC that is on the plane with silkspan using Minwax Polycrylic thinned with isopropyl alcohol.  Same technique Brad Walker described for applying silkspan over SLC in his T-Rex CLW article and I believe here on one of the threads.  I was really happy with how it turned out especially after applying clear dope over it this last weekend.  Have to admit to having been a bit nervous about applying the dope over all this since I've never used this finishing method before.  Turned out the worry wasn't warranted.  After this one, I'm very eager to get some SLC and use this method one some other projects as well.

Now I just need to get the colors and final clear coats on it, go break in the engine - Saito 30 and go have some fun with it.

Mark