On Windy's Strega DVD he tacks with thin C/A then uses thick for the actual joining. I would think you'd want to keep the tank available for shimming, I personally wouldn't permanently glue it in. There's nothing wrong with the C/A hinges that I'm aware of, just a personal choice to use DuBros or what other kind you prefer.

I have assembled the Vector 40 ARF, and the CA hinges are just fine. The tank is glued in lightly with CA, and can easily be debonded if shimming becomes neccessary.Be sure to follow the instructions for coating the tank compartment and engine area with brushed on epoxy, it will help fuelproof  these areas, as well as add a little bit of strength to the front end structure. I recommend the Brodak tank designed for this plane, it fits like a glove.The way the wing is mounted lends itself to using the CA method described in the manual. Just review the book several times, as you will see the pixs dont go along with the text! The belcrank and LOs are ok, but I suggest the use of ballinks at the flaphorn for both flap and elevator pushrods.I JB Welded a CF rod over the original elevator pushrod. Use the Z-bends at the belcrank and elevator horn ends, and make your adjustments at the flap horn before gluing on the wing.

Alot of folks whined about getting a warped wing, mine is straight as an arrow. Check for warps, as apparently there was a bad run from the plant in China...


Have fun, as this is a well designed and built plane!

With a Brodak .40 and an Aerotiger 36 the 5 oz wide brodak uniflow all tubes forward tank does not need to be shimmed. It will wind up right on the bearers.

Be sure to remove the film covering material from the wing facing surfaces of the fuselage. The thin CA will wick in under the joint ant lock the wing on pretty well. Thick CA will give you a fillet to fill the misfit and reinforces the joint.

I cannot see an advantage to ball links at the flaps. A carbon fiber elevator pushrod with ball link at the tail is pretty useful but you will need to cut access hatches.

The plane tends to be nose heavy. Use the lightest plastic spinner you can find (1 3/4 in) and a chip muffler.

Rig the outboard flap section that is glued to the wing as an adjustable trim tab.

Go fly the puppy, its a dynamite airplane.

bob branch

John

Randy says 2 7/8 to 3 1/8 in back from the leading edge for the balance point. I'm aft of that but not flying with a stock control system.

Bob Branch

Randy,
Thanks for checking in on this thread.  I checked today and I am about 3.75" from the leading edge.  I will continue to add weight to the front until I am about the 3 inch zone and work back from there.  I am looking forward to some good weather to give it a shot.
John

Bob,
My singing and dancing both suck, but I did complete the requirements for the kit.  Now that you mention it, I may just add some lettering below the Vector decal that reads "Song and Dance".  Thank God nobody had a movie camera out there at that time....
John

Yes that is correct.

Bob Branch