Well my opinion is that it certainly won't hurt anything. The Morris controls are certainly an upgrade, but I am guessing the stock controls are fine (I have not "assembled" a Vector Arf, so am not too sure what is included). Usually the Brodak controls are ok--even in the arf), but  I am sure others will soon chime in!

Hey Jim, I have had several Arf/Arc in the past few years. Almost all of them actually! The Nobler was the only one I changed the bell crank in due to the size and ability to saw through the metal material its made of. I have a Cardinal with a whole bunch of flights on it, about 8 or so gallons on, and a few weeks ago the leadout out pulled the the bell crank. From the looks of the leadout, looks like the crimp released the leadout. But we are talking a lot of flights here. Even that happening, I think it would be pretty safe to leave the bell crank in as stock. This could be a good question or kind of poll to ask as a post of recommended mods. Everyone knows there are many to make, but a post of mods will add some that we may not know about or thought of yet.
I am no expert with covering in plastic but do a descent job. If you like we can hook up in North Carolina, break out the Ultra Coat and cover wings and tail surfaces, and with that built up fuse, there is plenty of room to cut out that bell crank and put in another one. We can get Kent Tysor and his knives, he will cut that baby open. I believe his calling was to be a butcher, because he does not mind cutting into an airplane. See Ya John Rakes

WE are doing a Vector ARF now.  Kept the original bellcrank (a Brodak one) but added bushed stranded leadouts of slightly larger size and NOT CRIMPED.  Gonna use the supplied push rod for the flaps, using a soldered washer, but will add ball link pushrod to the elevators (recycled!)  Otherwise, it looks like it will use all the other kit parts.  Will heat shrink everything and stick it down good, then seal all the seams.

I have been convinvced that the Vector ARF is a great flying airplane!  Probably the best of the bunch that is available right now.

Just for grins, I picked up an Oriental ARC. It's a PITA to cut the sheeting, but I went ahead and did it anyway so I could get to the controls. I changed the leadouts and will use ball links for the push rods.

I was planning to do a Morris bellcrank, but the Oriental comes with a 4 inch Brodak unit and that's fine for a small classic ship - as well as a 40 powered Vector.

Take care,

Ron

When I did my Oriental ARF, I was able to get the bellcrank out and back in without cutting the sheeting.  I did put a 1/4 " dia hole in the bottom center of the sheeting to gain access to the head of the pivot screw.

Jim,

Since I was working from an ARC, not an ARF, there was no need to be super cautious. 

It's much easier (for me) to slice a big section out of the sheeting, make sure I do the job right, then replace the whole center section if necessary. If I was starting with an ARF, I'm sure I would try to make smaller incisions and it's nice to know it can be done.

Thanks,

Ron
 

I have a Vector 40 ARC, and I'm thinkin' about a Magnum XLS .36 with round the back header and carbon pipe. Has anybody done one up with an enclosed pipe? If somebody has found a way to get the engine mounts out of an ARF/ARC, I'm interested in hearing about how to do it!

I also have an OrientARC, and should check the bellcrank. I am wondering if it is a genuine Brodak (i.e., made in USA), or if it's made in a duplicate mold, in China? The type of plastic used is of some concern to me.  Steve

One more V ?

Has anyone seen the need to take the covering off the LE and round off the LE? Or is the relatively sharp LE OK on the Vector? Has anyone seen the plans to compare Randy's LE to the ARF/ARCs LE? .... TIA 

Hi Larry,

Thanks for the tips. I have always felt that a rounded LE is better for our event. And now that we have unlimited power (your excellent setup, or my ECL) we can drag anything through the air, especially our modern blunt, fat, hi lift, and forgiving airfoils! We no longer need the pylon racers edge up front. ;-)

I'm using Randy's TALL CF gear to clear my 12 x 6 props, and have done all the other mods you and others have suggested. It will be easy to peal back my new covering job and round off the LE.

Congratulations again on your well deserved 1st place win at the CA State Championships last month! I can not think of a nicer guy to lose to! 

Regards, 

Thanks Geoff,

That is all I needed to hear. The ARC Vector is far from "pretty blunt". I have already done it based on what Larry said, but your comments definitely makes me feel it was worth striping and recovering the LE to make it conform to the original model Randy designed. The present ARC/ARFs are very good and I am sure that the mfg. will get better at understanding the importance of the rounded LE and in the future we will see ARC/ARFs that are made even closer to the plans. :-)

Regards, 

Thanks Geoff,

I was not able to get it as blunt as 3/8, but close. It's nice to know what the plan showed. The ARC is not close to that, but I hear it still flys very well even with it's sharper LE. Fixing this is very easy, even after I covered my ARC with MK. It would have been a bit of a PITA if the wing was painted. ;-)

Regards,