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Building Tips and technical articles. => ARF'S => Topic started by: Jim Morris on August 26, 2011, 08:33:59 AM
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Ok, all the questions may or may not be on another post but here goes. Can someone tell me if I need to do anymore to the Arf? so far, removed all covering, fus will be glassed and painted, elevators were cut out and diaganal ribs installed with silkspan and dope, stab was also done the same thing but monocoated, very light and stiff, the flaps have been glassed and doped but will be thrown in the trash, waaaay too soft still, will make some out of C grain. Tom Morris controles installed. I know I could have built a kit for the amount of work, but its too late for that. Is there anything else as far as structure to do? such as motor crutch? I havent heard any noses flying off the Vector. Looks like it will be a great flyer. La 46 will be the power.
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Ok, all the questions may or may not be on another post but here goes. Can someone tell me if I need to do anymore to the Arf? so far, removed all covering, fus will be glassed and painted, elevators were cut out and diaganal ribs installed with silkspan and dope, stab was also done the same thing but monocoated, very light and stiff, the flaps have been glassed and doped but will be thrown in the trash, waaaay too soft still, will make some out of C grain. Tom Morris controles installed. I know I could have built a kit for the amount of work, but its too late for that. Is there anything else as far as structure to do? such as motor crutch? I havent heard any noses flying off the Vector. Looks like it will be a great flyer. La 46 will be the power.
Be particularly careful about the alignment. I have seen several where the "key" for the wing alignment to the fuse is not straight and needed significant modification to get the wing square. Also carefully check the incidence of the tail WRT the wing. It can be 0-0 or *very slightly* positive (LE higher than TE - VERY SLIGHTLY). It's extremely sensitive to the stab incidence and for sure make it so you can adjust the flap/elevator neutral.
Brett
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What about the leadouts? There have been reports of the stock leadouts breaking at the crimpls in the tubes.
I certainly changed the leadouts on mine to do away with the crimped connections. I used heavy duty swaged connections. Others prefer the traditional binding.
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What about the leadouts? There have been reports of the stock leadouts breaking at the crimpls in the tubes.
I certainly changed the leadouts on mine to do away with the crimped connections. I used heavy duty swaged connections. Others prefer the traditional binding.
He said he replaced the controls, so I figure that is taken care of. I don't know anyone who actually used the stock controls but I would presume them to be faulty in any case.
Brett
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Thanks, yes I think I replaced the leadout cables, I dont use crimps anymore.I had a line break during a pull test at a contest. It broke right at the swage where apparently the edge of the swage rubbed into the line. I did not bevel the edge as I didnt know any better at the time. Does beveling the edge work?
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Make sure you mount the motor on aluminum pads. The wood motor mounts are rather soft.
I have one that flies great in spite of a number of problems I fixed during assembly. You won't be sorry that you went to all the extra mods.
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Hi Jim,
I think all the major stuff has been covered, but remember to seal the edges of the covering every where that it has a seam. I used Min Wax clear urethane (oil based, not water based) and just sprayed down all the seams. They will start coming "undressed" after a flight or two, otherwise.
I also covered the entire engine compartment, and inside the cowl, with epoxy to fuel proof it.
Big Bear
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The main thing to be wary of is the weight. I wouldn't do anything to make it heavier - like glassing anything. The model is very strong and will only break in a crash. I used the standard controls in both of mine but I think it would be better to have less movement of the control surfaces ie. have the pushrod closer to the bellcrank pivot point. It's difficult to do this without removing the bellcrank and that means major rework so I left it as is. Could have used longer control horns I guess. Why did you buy an ARF thern remove the covering ? Why not buy an ARC ? I have built 2 ARC Vectors and I was very happy with both of them. The one I have left flys very well. Used an LA46 in both of them. The models balanced OK without lightening the elevators. How much work was done to install the new controls ?
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OOOPPS...... I missed the part where you said you removed the covering so disregard my post above! LL~ LL~
(but I would still fuel proof the engine/tank compartment and inside the cowl)
Big Bear
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Just got the Oct Flying Models; great review of the Vector 40 by Steve Teerlinck. He covers lots of "changes" and improvements...
definitely worth the read.
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The main thing to be wary of is the weight. I wouldn't do anything to make it heavier - like glassing anything. The model is very strong and will only break in a crash. I used the standard controls in both of mine but I think it would be better to have less movement of the control surfaces ie. have the pushrod closer to the bellcrank pivot point. It's difficult to do this without removing the bellcrank and that means major rework so I left it as is. Could have used longer control horns I guess. Why did you buy an ARF thern remove the covering ? Why not buy an ARC ? I have built 2 ARC Vectors and I was very happy with both of them. The one I have left flys very well. Used an LA46 in both of them. The models balanced OK without lightening the elevators. How much work was done to install the new controls ?
If I remember, I removed the covering to lighten up the tail, and I usually dont like iron on covering on all the plane, just wings and sometimes tail because I dont want it to start peeling. I really dont know why I didnt buy an arc. The belcrank replacement was somewhat of a pain but I can now adjust everything correctly, I hope.And yes I will for sure fuel proof the engine area.
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I am thinking of buying an SV11 but will have to get the ARF as the ARC is no longer available. Lots of changes have been documented but, like you, I was thinking I would paint the fuselage but keep the covering on the wings and tail. The wing comes in 2 parts so, although difficult, the controls are probably more accessable than the Vector.