I got the clunk tank from Tom Morris, but I haven't tried it yet.  Mine had the metal "first run" tank.

Ty is dead on about the pattern requirements.  I always wondered how Champione got through the pattern in '69 with that big Sabre running a Fox 35 on a 3 1/2 oz. fuel tank the plans show until I realized that there are a whole bunch more laps required now in the pattern!

Hi Guys

The newer version of the Nobler ARF comes with a standard RC fuel tank. I didnt use that in mine, I built a GMA Nobler tank. The problem is that I get short run times with the GMA fuel tank. Is seems to be impossible to use a larger CL tank in the Nobler, so my question is, how well does the original plastic RC tank work?

Andreas

Andreas,
I used a Brodak 4 oz. metal uniflow tank in my Nobler running a OS 40FP by Muggleton. I usually have to take a little out so as to not over run. I like it that way. I cut a rectangular hole in the first former and slid the tank in from the front. I tried to use the plastic clunk tank but I could not get the pickup tube to line up with the needle on my engine. The metal tank actually worked out better for me. I didn't have to shim or anything and it lined up perfectly so engine runs are the same upright and inverted. Solid 4 stroke thru out the pattern with a break at the top of the manuvers. You can see the little plywood tab I made with a little piece of foam that holds it in place. I just put a 2-56 tee nut on the inside of the former and screwed the tab in place. I installed a 1/4 inch balsa floor between the engine mounts to add stiffness to the front and a place for the tank to sit. It worked out great.

Thanks for your answers!

Greg: I didnt think of that solution. I will order a 4 oz fuel tank from Brodak and cut the former. By the way, its a beautiful Nobler you got there.
Andreas

Thanks Andreas,
Make sure you order the one that is 1 3/4 inch wide. Part No. BH-482
1 H X 1 3/4 W x 4 3/4 LG.

Andreas,
Here we have the new former in and the triangle stock in place and the tank is in for the picture. I used Epoxy to bond the new former in. Since I'm not goin to use the stock wire gear and I will be using an aluminum gear. I have filled in the gear groove with a piece of ply to give me a flat surface to mount the new gear. I will drill holes in it for the new gear and install tee nuts on the inside of the gear block. The next thing I will do is paint epoxy in the tank area to seal it. The reason I'm painting the epoxy now is because once the tank floor is in I can't get under it to seal the wood. Then I will make a tank floor and epoxy it in between the motor mounts under the tank. I will have to paint the tank floor with epoxy before I install it also, because I will not be able to epoxy the bottom of it once it is installed. In the first picture you can see the second former and the hole that is just above the tank. This is the hole for the dowel that is in the center of the wing. The rear of the tank will slide under the dowel and keep the rear of the tank from moving around. If necessary I will sand the dowel or shim between the dowel and the tank to get the fit I want. Eventually the dowel pin hole will get sealed after the wing is in. In the second picture you can see a square hole under where the dowel goes. I will fill this square hole with a piece of balsa and paint it with epoxy so that the tank compartment is sealed. This will prevent any excess oil or fuel from getting in the wing area and doing any damage if there was a leak somewhere. Any leaks or excess oil will be contained the the sealed tank compartment where it can drip out the bottom and it will not do any damage. The third picture shows the tab that holds the tank in place. Remember you don't want to smash the tank so adjust the thickness of the top half of the tab so there is just enough pressure to hold the tank in place. The last picture with engine mounted is just to make sure everything fits. The engine plates are 1/16 aluminum and tee nuts are used on the farside of the engine mounts. I cut the  engine mounts down 1/16 to make room for the plates. This will allow the engine to remain in the same place as was originally designed. Remember everyone has their own way of doing things and may not agree. This is just what I have done.

Added the partial tank floor at the front of the tank and at the rear, also a piece in front of the first former. Still don't want to add weight if it's not beneficial. I did the same thing on my last one and it had good solid engine runs. It's just my opinion that a full floor isn't needed as the little motors don't vibrate as much as the big ones unless your going to use a stock FOX 35. If I was using a FOX I would probably go with a 3/16 full tank floor with a couple of lightning holes. I will add a piece above the tank later between the side walls to add a little stiffness to them. It will still allow the tank to be removed out the front.