News:
2019----><---- T Shirt



Advertise Here

  • August 17, 2019, 09:53:14 AM

Login with username, password and session length

Author Topic: SV-11  (Read 13748 times)

Online Motorman

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • ******
  • Posts: 4742
  • Millville NJ PDQ Flying Clown Country
Re: SV-11
« Reply #100 on: June 05, 2018, 06:52:11 PM »
Mine has the exact same problem, tighter outsides. A push rod adjustment didn't fix mine. I believe it's got down thrust built in from the factory. I've shimmed the motor for more up thrust with .025" washers but I think .015" washers would be enough. It's been too windy to fly for me to find out.

Edit: I just watched your video, yours makes a different sound. I guess we don't have the same motor so maybe the problem common to both is the stab? I just glued the wing and stab in the slots without checking so I think I'll go take some measurements.

Motorman 8)
« Last Edit: June 05, 2018, 07:09:13 PM by Motorman »
There will be a sunny day and we will fly our airplanes.

Offline Chris Fretz

  • 2017
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 1185
Re: SV-11
« Reply #101 on: June 05, 2018, 07:27:34 PM »
Mine has the exact same problem, tighter outsides. A push rod adjustment didn't fix mine. I believe it's got down thrust built in from the factory. I've shimmed the motor for more up thrust with .025" washers but I think .015" washers would be enough. It's been too windy to fly for me to find out.

Edit: I just watched your video, yours makes a different sound. I guess we don't have the same motor so maybe the problem common to both is the stab? I just glued the wing and stab in the slots without checking so I think I'll go take some measurements.

Motorman 8)
Well yours is electric and mines not.  I did use incidence meters on mine.  I'll still give the pushrod a try.  But the incidence meters may have been a waist of time then.
« Last Edit: June 06, 2018, 02:47:10 AM by #Liner »
Formerly known as #Liner
AMA 1104207
Advanced

Online Motorman

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • ******
  • Posts: 4742
  • Millville NJ PDQ Flying Clown Country
Re: SV-11
« Reply #102 on: June 05, 2018, 09:13:25 PM »
Are you going to shorten the push rod? I shortened mine so with the elevator is neutral the flaps are hanging down about 3/16" and it still turns tighter on outsides. That's why I'm thinking it's thrust line or the stab.
There will be a sunny day and we will fly our airplanes.

Offline Chris Fretz

  • 2017
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 1185
Re: SV-11
« Reply #103 on: June 06, 2018, 02:44:59 AM »
Are you going to shorten the push rod? I shortened mine so with the elevator is neutral the flaps are hanging down about 3/16" and it still turns tighter on outsides. That's why I'm thinking it's thrust line or the stab.
First thing I'll try is lengthen the push rod from the flaps to elevator pushrod. And hope it still flys straight and level. I guess my last resort will be decrease line spacing on the down line only. I had the same problem on a green box nobler and never did fix it.

Chris
Formerly known as #Liner
AMA 1104207
Advanced

Online Motorman

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • ******
  • Posts: 4742
  • Millville NJ PDQ Flying Clown Country
Re: SV-11
« Reply #104 on: June 06, 2018, 03:18:59 PM »
I just took a couple of trim flights and the up thrust fixed  the turning problem and it doesn't hunt anymore.
There will be a sunny day and we will fly our airplanes.

Offline Chris Fretz

  • 2017
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 1185
Re: SV-11
« Reply #105 on: June 07, 2018, 01:49:42 AM »
I just took a couple of trim flights and the up thrust fixed  the turning problem and it doesn't hunt anymore.
Did yours hunt from the beginning?  Mine don't hunt.
Formerly known as #Liner
AMA 1104207
Advanced

Online Motorman

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • ******
  • Posts: 4742
  • Millville NJ PDQ Flying Clown Country
Re: SV-11
« Reply #106 on: June 07, 2018, 06:51:30 AM »
Yes mine did. Something you might try is adjusting your handle so you have to hold a little down to get neutral. This will trick you into giving less input for down and more for up.
There will be a sunny day and we will fly our airplanes.

Offline Target

  • C/L Addict
  • 2019 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 1769
Re: SV-11
« Reply #107 on: June 07, 2018, 12:39:35 PM »
It almost sounds like Chris's problem is that the bellcrank wasn't neutral when the flaps are. I doubt that he would miss that, but it would account for more authority one way than the other.

Does the same handle deflection give the same flap and elevator deflection?
Regards,
Chris
AMA 5956

Offline Chris Fretz

  • 2017
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 1185
Re: SV-11
« Reply #108 on: June 07, 2018, 01:21:30 PM »
It almost sounds like Chris's problem is that the bellcrank wasn't neutral when the flaps are. I doubt that he would miss that, but it would account for more authority one way than the other.

Does the same handle deflection give the same flap and elevator deflection?
The relationship of the bellcrank doesn't matter where it is. Well I suppose it would of the bellcrank was at the end of its throw it would start being different but you would have to have to really off for that.
« Last Edit: June 07, 2018, 01:54:44 PM by #Liner »
Formerly known as #Liner
AMA 1104207
Advanced

Offline Target

  • C/L Addict
  • 2019 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 1769
Re: SV-11
« Reply #109 on: June 07, 2018, 02:33:55 PM »
I would think that the less your total bellcrank travel, full up to full down, the more a little offset would matter, but I'm no expert.
Regards,
Chris
AMA 5956

Offline Chris Fretz

  • 2017
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 1185
Re: SV-11
« Reply #110 on: June 07, 2018, 05:23:26 PM »
I would think that the less your total bellcrank travel, full up to full down, the more a little offset would matter, but I'm no expert.
I don't know, I usually set them up pretty square to get the same travel up and down. Anywho when I get back to messing with it I'll let you guys know what happens.

Chris
Formerly known as #Liner
AMA 1104207
Advanced

Offline Matt Brown

  • 2019 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Commander
  • *
  • Posts: 155
Re: SV-11
« Reply #111 on: June 15, 2018, 11:09:05 AM »
I finally got to fly my SV11 yesterday. I set my timer for about 2 1/2 minutes so I was able to get in 4 short trim flights with my two batteries. First flight was smoking fast and pulling like a freight train. I thought I had set the governor to 9800 which should have given me laps around 5.4 seconds but it was more in the 4.2 time frame. Second flight I turned down the motor a bit and got in a few loops to see how it felt. It was still in the 5.0 range though. Turned it down again and ended up about 5.2/lap. A few more maneuvers that all felt fairly decent. Last flight I forgot to turn down the motor any more. Flew the remaining pattern maneuvers I hadnít yet tried and it went pretty good. I put the batteries on charge and flew my Twister for a while.
I turned down the motor a little bit more and set the flight time to about 5 1/2 minutes. I was able to put in two complete somewhat respectable patterns on the next two flights. Granted, Iíve still flown less than 20 complete patterns as Iím still learning it. The SV11 is much better and easier to fly than my current Twister. Really have to work to get a decent attempt out of the Twister whereas the SV11 is much easier. Squares and the hourglass are kicking my butt, but there is a glimmer of hope for them now.

As far as the assembly of the plane, there are several areas that could stand improvement. First and foremost in my mind is the motor mounting. While the ply isnít lite-ply, it is a long way from the good aircraft plywood we are used to. Bolting the motor in on the bench, I could feel the wood crushing way too easily. Not only that, but putting a washer on the mounting bolts caused interference with the prop drive collet. I ended up machining a piece of 2.5mm carbon plate to cover the whole mounting area. The downside is, my plate has blocked all airflow through the motor and it comes down hotter than Iíd like. If I cut air passages similar to what is in the ply mounts, Iíll lose the load spreading properties I gained by adding the carbon plate. A 4mm carbon motor mounting plate built into the nose rather than the ply would have been awesome.
I knew of two guys that had their flap to elevator pushrods fail during construction so I stress tested mine fairly well. It survived so I used it as is.
It would be nice to have some extra covering to cover the seams where the canopy section attaches and where the piece goes on over the stab. Those seams just really stick out to me.
The instructions showed sliding the ESC in from the front and going under the battery tray. The former at the front of the tray had no holes in it where wires nor an ESC could enter. Not sure what was planned there.
I ended up putting my timer on the battery door with Velcro. It was the only place I could figure out where I had access to adjust it.
Maybe if I need a replacement, Iíll go for the ARC and do a little more modding in the nose section to alleviate some of the issues I found.
My new favorite plane!

Matt

Online Motorman

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • ******
  • Posts: 4742
  • Millville NJ PDQ Flying Clown Country
Re: SV-11
« Reply #112 on: June 16, 2018, 09:06:22 AM »
Matt, you're right about the crap wood in the motor mount. If you look at post #65 in this thread you'll see what I did with a Hunt G10 mount plate. I also cut another piece of CF plate for the front face of the mount. The wood still flexes so I use blue loctite and less torque when tightening. You should open up some cooling on the mount plate. I've thought about cutting a slot in the top of the nose and adding a hood scoop. I opened up the half hole and the next full hole on the bottom of the fuselage near the landing gear. Cooling exit needs to be much bigger than intake.

Mine flys good even at 5.35 sec a lap on 65'x.018".
There will be a sunny day and we will fly our airplanes.

Online Motorman

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • ******
  • Posts: 4742
  • Millville NJ PDQ Flying Clown Country
Re: SV-11
« Reply #113 on: July 01, 2018, 10:19:38 PM »
Well after flying allot I find the control system is somehow too stiff to do contest worthy stunts. I guess I'll have to cut into it to investigate unless someone can suggest something else.
There will be a sunny day and we will fly our airplanes.

Online Motorman

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • ******
  • Posts: 4742
  • Millville NJ PDQ Flying Clown Country
Re: SV-11
« Reply #114 on: July 04, 2018, 02:48:32 PM »
Ok, so I pulled out all the hinge pins and replaced them with .025" music wire. Didn't really get much better. I hope it's not the tubing on the flap horn because that would be fairly impossible to fix. Then I cut into the wing tip and removed the lead out slider. Good thing because it was almost cracked in half. While it was out the controls were a little better  but still too sticky. Made a new slider out of nylon. Next step take off the canopy and cut out the cockpit to get to the flap horn. After I disconnect that it will tell me if it's still flaps or something on the bellcrank. This is getting to be like a hobby.

Motorman 8)
There will be a sunny day and we will fly our airplanes.

Offline Matt Brown

  • 2019 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Commander
  • *
  • Posts: 155
Re: SV-11
« Reply #115 on: July 06, 2018, 07:21:43 PM »
So Iím heading to Muncie early Sunday morning to fly Intermediate. Only real issue Iím having is it gets stupid light on the lines after the second corner of the hourglass. It pretty much guarantees a very low score on that maneuver. I donít care as much about the score as I worry about how ugly the maneuver is.

FWIW, I used CA hinges on mine. They are a bit stiff but so far I canít feel any downside while flying.

Wish me luck!
Matt

Offline Target

  • C/L Addict
  • 2019 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 1769
Re: SV-11
« Reply #116 on: July 06, 2018, 08:13:37 PM »
Ok, so I pulled out all the hinge pins and replaced them with .025" music wire. Didn't really get much better. I hope it's not the tubing on the flap horn because that would be fairly impossible to fix. Then I cut into the wing tip and removed the lead out slider. Good thing because it was almost cracked in half. While it was out the controls were a little better  but still too sticky. Made a new slider out of nylon. Next step take off the canopy and cut out the cockpit to get to the flap horn. After I disconnect that it will tell me if it's still flaps or something on the bellcrank. This is getting to be like a hobby.

Motorman 8)
Hi, MM-
Is this a new sv11 arf that you assembled, or one bought rtf preassembled from someone else? It sounds like you didn't assemble it because if you did, I'd assume that you'd make sure everything worked right at each assembly step. And then you'd know if something was sticky or binding, i would think.
Hope you find the issue with it.
Watching,
Target
Regards,
Chris
AMA 5956

Online Motorman

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • ******
  • Posts: 4742
  • Millville NJ PDQ Flying Clown Country
Re: SV-11
« Reply #117 on: July 06, 2018, 10:23:02 PM »
I have to admit I slapped it together a little too fast. Just wanted to work the bugs out of my new motor/battery/prop so I can drop it on my Thundergazer when done. Who knew an arf would fly that good.

Anyway I found something. Had to cut the top out of the fuselage and cut through the top of the wing then dig the ends of the bellcrank pin out of the epoxy I dabbed on there to keep the clips on. After I knocked the pin out I found glue in the bellcrank hole.

Hard to believe 30 minute epoxy wicked all the way down there. Might have been Titebond from the wing spars or the CA I used on the loose joints in that area. Not sure how it got in there but I took a 9/64" drill bit and hogged it out. Now the pin is plenty loose and I'm making bigger diameter spacers for top and bottom to control tilt.

This arf is gonna' look like Frankenstein when I get it back together.

Motorman
There will be a sunny day and we will fly our airplanes.

Offline Chris Fretz

  • 2017
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 1185
Re: SV-11
« Reply #118 on: July 06, 2018, 11:10:33 PM »
I had a clicking after epoxying the wing together.  It was dripped epoxy on the bellcrank, luckily I found it before I glued it into the fuse.

I adjusted my pushrod to the elevator by making it longer and it seems to have fixed my tighter outside loops.

Chris
Formerly known as #Liner
AMA 1104207
Advanced

Online Motorman

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • ******
  • Posts: 4742
  • Millville NJ PDQ Flying Clown Country
Re: SV-11
« Reply #119 on: July 07, 2018, 09:05:54 AM »
That's interesting. I shortened my elevator push rod to give it less flap/lift in the outsides and it didn't work. I think my problem is handle adjustment. I got a set of lines made up that were the same exact length and the lead outs were so far out of wack I have a 2" line clip on the down line and I still have to feed in too much up for take off.
There will be a sunny day and we will fly our airplanes.

Offline Target

  • C/L Addict
  • 2019 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 1769
Re: SV-11
« Reply #120 on: July 07, 2018, 12:30:21 PM »
Glad you found the problem, motorman. I'll be on the lookout when i assemble my arc.
Regards,
Chris
AMA 5956

Offline Chris Fretz

  • 2017
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 1185
Re: SV-11
« Reply #121 on: July 07, 2018, 08:59:55 PM »
That's interesting. I shortened my elevator push rod to give it less flap/lift in the outsides and it didn't work. I think my problem is handle adjustment. I got a set of lines made up that were the same exact length and the lead outs were so far out of wack I have a 2" line clip on the down line and I still have to feed in too much up for take off.
After all this time I finally put that crank in my Testors McCoy. 29  that you straightened. It runs very smooth,  you did a great job!  Thanks again!

Chris
Formerly known as #Liner
AMA 1104207
Advanced

Online Motorman

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • ******
  • Posts: 4742
  • Millville NJ PDQ Flying Clown Country
Re: SV-11
« Reply #122 on: July 07, 2018, 10:02:54 PM »
Happy to help, glad it worked out.

I had to junk the bellcrank pin because, the clip got damaged. I didn't have a 6-32 bolt long enough so, I took a 1/4" bolt and turned it down to .138" and threaded the end 6-32 so when I tighten the nut down on the shank it's the same gap between the nut and the head as the china pin is between the two clips. That way I can tighten the nut without squeezing the bellcrank.

It's pretty much back together now and the controls are so free I can't believe it.  I have to figure out some crimp sleeves for the lead outs and glue the canopy on then I can get back to flying.

Motorman 8)
There will be a sunny day and we will fly our airplanes.

Offline Chris Fretz

  • 2017
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 1185
Re: SV-11
« Reply #123 on: August 18, 2018, 07:22:55 PM »
Just a heads up,  I had the wheel and wheel pant fall of in flight.  Didnt end pretty.  Gear got ripped off on the landing. I'm changing the wheel pant nuts to nylon lock nuts. I used blue threadlocker on them and the gear mount screws.

Chris
Formerly known as #Liner
AMA 1104207
Advanced

Offline TDM

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Captain
  • *****
  • Posts: 713
Re: SV-11
« Reply #124 on: October 18, 2018, 03:34:57 PM »
I finally got to fly my SV11 yesterday. I set my timer for about 2 1/2 minutes so I was able to get in 4 short trim flights with my two batteries. First flight was smoking fast and pulling like a freight train. I thought I had set the governor to 9800 which should have given me laps around 5.4 seconds but it was more in the 4.2 time frame. Second flight I turned down the motor a bit and got in a few loops to see how it felt. It was still in the 5.0 range though. Turned it down again and ended up about 5.2/lap. A few more maneuvers that all felt fairly decent. Last flight I forgot to turn down the motor any more. Flew the remaining pattern maneuvers I hadnít yet tried and it went pretty good. I put the batteries on charge and flew my Twister for a while.
I turned down the motor a little bit more and set the flight time to about 5 1/2 minutes. I was able to put in two complete somewhat respectable patterns on the next two flights. Granted, Iíve still flown less than 20 complete patterns as Iím still learning it. The SV11 is much better and easier to fly than my current Twister. Really have to work to get a decent attempt out of the Twister whereas the SV11 is much easier. Squares and the hourglass are kicking my butt, but there is a glimmer of hope for them now.

As far as the assembly of the plane, there are several areas that could stand improvement. First and foremost in my mind is the motor mounting. While the ply isnít lite-ply, it is a long way from the good aircraft plywood we are used to. Bolting the motor in on the bench, I could feel the wood crushing way too easily. Not only that, but putting a washer on the mounting bolts caused interference with the prop drive collet. I ended up machining a piece of 2.5mm carbon plate to cover the whole mounting area. The downside is, my plate has blocked all airflow through the motor and it comes down hotter than Iíd like. If I cut air passages similar to what is in the ply mounts, Iíll lose the load spreading properties I gained by adding the carbon plate. A 4mm carbon motor mounting plate built into the nose rather than the ply would have been awesome.
I knew of two guys that had their flap to elevator pushrods fail during construction so I stress tested mine fairly well. It survived so I used it as is.
It would be nice to have some extra covering to cover the seams where the canopy section attaches and where the piece goes on over the stab. Those seams just really stick out to me.
The instructions showed sliding the ESC in from the front and going under the battery tray. The former at the front of the tray had no holes in it where wires nor an ESC could enter. Not sure what was planned there.
I ended up putting my timer on the battery door with Velcro. It was the only place I could figure out where I had access to adjust it.
Maybe if I need a replacement, Iíll go for the ARC and do a little more modding in the nose section to alleviate some of the issues I found.
My new favorite plane!

Matt

Matt you are at the perfect time to move up on SV11. I am of the opinion that if the plane is better that you you can improve. You must have room to grow in to. SV12 was my first competitive bird and I loved it. My skills skyrocketed from that time on.
Each goal you meet is a moment of happiness
Happiness is the harmony between what you think and what you do. Mahatma Gandhi

Offline peabody

  • 2016 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 2666
Re: SV-11
« Reply #125 on: October 19, 2018, 05:05:57 AM »
Chris.....that's an issue with most of the Brodak full bodied ARF/ARCs, as well as SV kits.
Ward VanDuzer used a long (maybe 4") piece of spruce, which ran forward through F-2. He used it to fasten his cowl as well. A lot stronger solution than simply adding more glue and glass.

Have fun!

Offline TDM

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Captain
  • *****
  • Posts: 713
Re: SV-11
« Reply #126 on: October 19, 2018, 07:25:12 AM »
Just a heads up,  I had the wheel and wheel pant fall of in flight.  Didnt end pretty.  Gear got ripped off on the landing. I'm changing the wheel pant nuts to nylon lock nuts. I used blue threadlocker on them and the gear mount screws.

Chris

Chris you can tell that the ARF manufacturer left the option open for a tuned pipe model. I zoomed in on your picture and I definitely find that inadequate. Not only it is inadequate but on top of that it is badly glued. If you look at the glue joints you can tel that.
I would remove the box add some hardwood and modify the existing. Extend the hardwood back to get a larger footprint for strength.

Some of you are saying that it turns tighter outside than inside and that is something I expect to happen. The flaps horn is oriented at 90 degrees but if you look at your push-rod angle it goes up from inside the wing it sweeps up to the attachment point. That geometry will make the flaps go up more than it would go down for same bellcrank deflection angle up and down hence less impute up and more impute down. You need a better flap horn to get the equal response up and down.  To achieve equal response if you look from the side the horn should be oriented perpendicular in reference to the push-rod when flaps are in the neutral position. 
« Last Edit: October 19, 2018, 07:54:47 AM by TDM »
Each goal you meet is a moment of happiness
Happiness is the harmony between what you think and what you do. Mahatma Gandhi

Offline TDM

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Captain
  • *****
  • Posts: 713
Re: SV-11
« Reply #127 on: October 19, 2018, 08:24:41 AM »
Well yours is electric and mines not.  I did use incidence meters on mine.  I'll still give the pushrod a try.  But the incidence meters may have been a waist of time then.

No not a waste of time at all.
Each goal you meet is a moment of happiness
Happiness is the harmony between what you think and what you do. Mahatma Gandhi

Offline Target

  • C/L Addict
  • 2019 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 1769
Re: SV-11
« Reply #128 on: October 19, 2018, 10:45:41 AM »
Some of you are saying that it turns tighter outside than inside and that is something I expect to happen. The flaps horn is oriented at 90 degrees but if you look at your push-rod angle it goes up from inside the wing it sweeps up to the attachment point. That geometry will make the flaps go up more than it would go down for same bellcrank deflection angle up and down hence less impute up and more impute down. You need a better flap horn to get the equal response up and down.  To achieve equal response if you look from the side the horn should be oriented perpendicular in reference to the push-rod when flaps are in the neutral position.

Can you post a link of a commercially available flap horn that would achieve what you are referring to?
I think that you mean the style that have the dog-leg linkage arm, right?

R,
target
PS. Going to fly DLG's now.
Regards,
Chris
AMA 5956

Offline TDM

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Captain
  • *****
  • Posts: 713
Re: SV-11
« Reply #129 on: October 19, 2018, 02:26:30 PM »
Can you post a link of a commercially available flap horn that would achieve what you are referring to?
I think that you mean the style that have the dog-leg linkage arm, right?

R,
target
PS. Going to fly DLG's now.

They work but you can use the original too. Check the picture. I am amusing the arm on push rod from elevator to flaps is the same (for example 1in on flaps and also 1in on elevator).
Each goal you meet is a moment of happiness
Happiness is the harmony between what you think and what you do. Mahatma Gandhi

Offline Kevin Muckleroy

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Lieutenant
  • ***
  • Posts: 118
Re: SV-11
« Reply #130 on: October 19, 2018, 06:36:11 PM »
Isn't this the same? From Stunt Hanger Hobby.

Offline MikeyPratt

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Captain
  • *****
  • Posts: 530
Re: SV-11
« Reply #131 on: October 26, 2018, 11:25:49 AM »
Hey, I like the gentle lady and wanderer! Lol. I'm actually building my son a Falke DLG. he wants it all black with a "Flash" logo on it.

Iím more of the Riser & Riser 100 type.

Later,
Mikey

Offline TDM

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Captain
  • *****
  • Posts: 713
Re: SV-11
« Reply #132 on: October 26, 2018, 12:02:10 PM »
Isn't this the same? From Stunt Hanger Hobby.

Kevin technically yes but notice the key missing element which is the nonexistent wire bend for flaps. Obviously for a reason (all planes have different fuselage widths). So when you bend those wires you have to take in account the 90 degree angle reference.  What I drew in the diagram uses the existing stuff.
What you have in your picture works as well. That horn keeps the hole for flap to elevator push-rod  at a more normal 90 degrees and will be more friendly if you want to adjust the elevator throw with a slider of some kind.
Each goal you meet is a moment of happiness
Happiness is the harmony between what you think and what you do. Mahatma Gandhi

Offline Target

  • C/L Addict
  • 2019 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 1769
Re: SV-11
« Reply #133 on: October 26, 2018, 09:08:12 PM »
TDM, not to be argumentative, but to do what you suggest, won't we have to re-solder the horn re-clocked to the bends then?
I assume this is what you intend. I can't imagine doing it any other way.
So this should work and not end up with a horn that might slip on the flap "joiner" rod?

Thanks. Sorry to be a pest.
Regards,
Chris
AMA 5956

Offline TDM

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Captain
  • *****
  • Posts: 713
Re: SV-11
« Reply #134 on: October 29, 2018, 06:39:56 AM »
First of all there are no stupid questions and no one is a pest.
Target I don't know the geometry you have in your push rod setup or the type of push-rods you have or the ability to adjust your system. I can only assume based on posts posts which suggest a 90 degree horn perpendicular to the flap wire bend. If that is the case and you have to square reference on the flaps and elevator then leave it alone and bias the bellcrank by shortening the pushrod from the bellcrank to the flaps push rod. I think there is the easiest fix. Obviously you have to recenter the handle after that. If yo have a single 1/8 in wire you can cut it with Dremel and brass tubing (actually two pieces tube inside of tube so you have wire tube then tube outside that tube) and solder back in pace, or splice and use copper wire to wrap the splice and solder that. Before you lock yourself in a setting check to have equal flaps deflection up and down for equal angular deflection on bellcrank.
Now if this is your first SV and you are just learning and improving and this is no big deal (just a little unbalance and not excessive) as i saw in a video posted in this thread I would leave it alone practice a lot and on the next one make yourself a system with better geometry in it. Or make it a winter fix it project. I have my winter fix it project where i have to adjust the landing gear position and bring it down a little for more prop clearance.
Each goal you meet is a moment of happiness
Happiness is the harmony between what you think and what you do. Mahatma Gandhi

Offline TDM

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Captain
  • *****
  • Posts: 713
Re: SV-11
« Reply #135 on: October 29, 2018, 07:26:50 AM »
That's interesting. I shortened my elevator push rod to give it less flap/lift in the outsides and it didn't work.

Kind of expected that to happen. You are looking in the wrong place. But you are looking in the right system. You should not look at the flaps to elevator but at the bellcrank to flaps pushrod instead. What you did only puts pressure on flying surfaces which some of us will use that bias to some effect to combat hunting. Leave the flap and elevator symmetric (deflection) and 0-0 on both of them so the pane turns equally. Bias the bellcrank to flap shorter to get the equal turn. Bellcrank to flaps pushrod short (bellcrank neutral clockwise if you view from top), this bias gives less up control more down, and vice versa. Handle has nothing to do with it, the only things you can adjust at handle is neutral point and spacing for sensitivity.
Each goal you meet is a moment of happiness
Happiness is the harmony between what you think and what you do. Mahatma Gandhi

Online John Rist

  • 2019 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 2124
Re: SV-11
« Reply #136 on: December 25, 2018, 07:36:25 PM »


Pic is of the Hunt G10 electric mount trimmed to be epoxied on the back of the wooden motor mount. I applied glue then bolted in an old motor casing to clamp it in place. Everything was coated with release agents so hopefully it will come apart tomorrow. 

MM 8)

Did you hag out some of the wood mount so that screws set on top of the fiberglass not the wood????
John Rist
AMA 56277

Offline MikeyPratt

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Captain
  • *****
  • Posts: 530
Re: SV-11
« Reply #137 on: January 12, 2019, 12:28:07 PM »
Hi Chris,
One to one is ideal for the SV-11 as per Randy.  If you build an SV-11 under 55 ounces (including the battery & flight ready) then it may be helpful to increase the elevator throw.  I've built a number of different models under 50 ounces and they all required the controls to be set up very quick (more elevator than flap).  I don't think any of the ARF or ARC will make it to this range, from what I've seen most are in mid 60 ounce range flight ready.  Very good flying at that weight.

Mikey


Offline Target

  • C/L Addict
  • 2019 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 1769
Re: SV-11
« Reply #138 on: January 12, 2019, 03:38:19 PM »
Thank you.
Regards,
Chris
AMA 5956


Advertise Here
Tags:
 


Advertise Here