News:




  • June 21, 2018, 02:44:27 AM

Login with username, password and session length

Author Topic: SV-11  (Read 6474 times)

Offline Dennis Adamisin

  • 2016 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 3883
Re: SV-11
« Reply #50 on: February 16, 2018, 07:34:58 AM »
Is the 1:1 ratio ideal for the SV? When should the SV use less than a 1:1 ratio?

R,
Target

Randy is the one best suited to answer this one.  All I can say is that mine flies really well with 1:1 and I see no need to change it.
Denny Adamisin
Fort Wayne, IN

"Sacred cows make the best burgers."
                             - Unknown


Offline Dennis Adamisin

  • 2016 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 3883
Re: SV-11
« Reply #51 on: February 16, 2018, 07:43:49 AM »
Iíve been doing the same thing, except a ball link on each side of the horn. One screw holding both.

Hi Jim
I have done some that way too, it certainly looks better!  However, it results in both the flap and elevator loading up on the same side of the pushrod and ball link from the bellcrank.  A pessimist would argue that side loads can tend to pop the ball link apart.  If you do it like my picture than the loads to the elevator are on the opposite side and sort-of balance out the load from the flaps.  Of course it is not truly a balanced load but it is closer.

Does it matter?  Probably not much...
Denny Adamisin
Fort Wayne, IN

"Sacred cows make the best burgers."
                             - Unknown

Offline Fredvon4

  • 2018 Supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 1494
  • Central Texas
Re: SV-11
« Reply #52 on: February 16, 2018, 01:34:27 PM »
I am purely a sport pilot with no intention of learning nor perfecting a PAMPA pattern

To date None of my 11 planes (I fly for fun) is flapped... I do have a oriental, Nobler, P40, and this SV-11 with flaps

I dearly love the advice and guidance I get from these forums.... to date I have followed a lot of advice and do not have burps, flame outs, or (too many) runaways

I have a RS B&B magnum 52 and all the good stuff from John and Randy to throw this SV-11 ARF together for this spring flying WX...

A bit confused as I seem to read different flapped planes need different Flap to Elevator ratios..... as i have never trimmed a flapped craft I would like to know the successful starting ratio

"A good scare teaches more than good advice"

Fred von Gortler IV

Offline peabody

  • 2016 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 2458
Re: SV-11
« Reply #53 on: February 16, 2018, 03:23:46 PM »
Hi Fred....
The SV, as well as the Vector, have been flying for years and the "quirks" are pretty much worked out....
Build the SV like the book says and you'll be delighted.....



Offline #Liner

  • 2017
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 1008
Re: SV-11
« Reply #54 on: February 16, 2018, 04:30:32 PM »
Isn't she pretty!?!
Chris Fretz (38)
AMA 1104207

Offline RandySmith

  • 2016 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 13107
  • Welcome to the Stunt Hanger.
    • Aero Products
Re: SV-11
« Reply #55 on: February 16, 2018, 08:19:11 PM »
I am purely a sport pilot with no intention of learning nor perfecting a PAMPA pattern

To date None of my 11 planes (I fly for fun) is flapped... I do have a oriental, Nobler, P40, and this SV-11 with flaps

I dearly love the advice and guidance I get from these forums.... to date I have followed a lot of advice and do not have burps, flame outs, or (too many) runaways

I have a RS B&B magnum 52 and all the good stuff from John and Randy to throw this SV-11 ARF together for this spring flying WX...

A bit confused as I seem to read different flapped planes need different Flap to Elevator ratios..... as i have never trimmed a flapped craft I would like to know the successful starting ratio

Hi Fred  THE  plane  was designed  to use a  1 to 1  ratio of flap and  elevator,  I setup mine  that way, you would only need  to use  less flap  if you have  an ultralight  plane

Regards
Randy

Offline Target

  • C/L Addict
  • 2018 Supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 1450
Re: SV-11
« Reply #56 on: February 16, 2018, 09:25:02 PM »
Less than about what weight in the case of the SV-11, Randy?
Thanks in advance.

Regards,
Chris
AMA 5956

Offline Fredvon4

  • 2018 Supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 1494
  • Central Texas
Re: SV-11
« Reply #57 on: February 17, 2018, 09:20:34 AM »
Thanks Randy
"A good scare teaches more than good advice"

Fred von Gortler IV

Offline RandySmith

  • 2016 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 13107
  • Welcome to the Stunt Hanger.
    • Aero Products
Re: SV-11
« Reply #58 on: February 17, 2018, 02:05:35 PM »
Less than about what weight in the case of the SV-11, Randy?
Thanks in advance.

Hi Most  all stunt ships, will need  more flap if heavy, and less flap if built  very light, and most, but not all  , use  and are designed  for a  1 to 1 ratio, even though  many include a slider hoen to change ratios, Exceptions are out there , but  1 to 1 is where you normally start

Randy

Offline Target

  • C/L Addict
  • 2018 Supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 1450
Re: SV-11
« Reply #59 on: February 17, 2018, 03:06:35 PM »
Ok, thanks Randy.
What is the sign that shows the ratio isn't optimun?
How do you tell if you need less flap or more flap by the flight characteristics?
Sorry to be a pest, and thanks for your advice in advance.
Regards,
Chris
AMA 5956

Offline #Liner

  • 2017
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 1008
Re: SV-11
« Reply #60 on: February 27, 2018, 06:35:03 PM »
Run the pushrod from the bellcrank to the top or outermost hole on the flap horn.
Run the elevator pushrod from the shared outermost hole (per my prior picture) to the outermost hole on the elevator.

This results in a 1:1 ratio.

The Vector and the SV-11 prototypes each got a half round air exit that looked something like this...
Hey Dennis what did you find to be the right amount of wing tip weight?
Directions say to start with 1.5oz.

Thanks
Chris Fretz
Chris Fretz (38)
AMA 1104207

Offline RandySmith

  • 2016 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 13107
  • Welcome to the Stunt Hanger.
    • Aero Products
Re: SV-11
« Reply #61 on: February 27, 2018, 07:06:38 PM »
I would start  with 1 ounce

Offline #Liner

  • 2017
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 1008
Re: SV-11
« Reply #62 on: February 27, 2018, 07:54:40 PM »
I would start  with 1 ounce
Thanks Randy will do!  Do you think this will cool the Magnum enough?

Chris Fretz
Chris Fretz (38)
AMA 1104207

Offline Ivan Bolton

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Ensign
  • **
  • Posts: 40
Re: SV-11
« Reply #63 on: March 03, 2018, 07:10:14 AM »
Well on with the assembly of my electric SV11.  I wondered when I saw the ends already glued into the pushrod.  I'd have preferred to JB weld them in myself and the glue did not look like JB weld.  Then when I was adjusting the elevator ball link the end just failed.  It's now JB welded back in.  I could not get the other end to loosen in fairness so I left that in place as I did not want to damage the pushrod.....  Scary though! 

I did JB weld  a triangular hardwood strengthener to the undercarriage mounting plate where it meets the front former, although it seemed well slotted in place.  I lined the wing seat with 1/8" balsa to give the glue more purchase, when gluing the wing on.   I had to add a hatch to the bottom of the 'cowl' in order to get at my Renecle timer to program it.

Offline peabody

  • 2016 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 2458
Re: SV-11
« Reply #64 on: March 03, 2018, 07:48:27 AM »
I epoxied buttonhole thread around the ends...

Offline Motorman

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • ******
  • Posts: 3889
  • Millville NJ PDQ Flying Clown Country
Re: SV-11
« Reply #65 on: March 12, 2018, 09:54:14 PM »
Great thread let me jump in here since I'm building an electric arf sv11 too.

Did you guys get tubing on your control horns? Both mine were bare, not sure how to get the hinge points on them. Was thinking to split a piece of tubing length wise then wrap those brass hinge things (not included) around and solder it together. I haven't measured the horn yet, might be metric.

I noticed the ball links that came with it are soft and flexible when I threaded one on the push rod. I'm switching to Dubro and a CF tube.

Did anyone notice allot of things aren't glued together around the wing root area? I'm definitely getting in there with some medium CA tomorrow.   

When I first tried to pull the lead outs back and forth they were really stiff. Lots of kinks and the front crimp kept catching on R2. I trimmed the rib and straightened everything out and it works smooth now. I hope it doesn't want the tether point farther back because you can't get the full range of adjustment. The front lead out drags on a rib out near the tip, can't fix that but it looks like it will be ok where it is.

I did a mock up of the wing joint with the beech logs and it looks good. How do you hold the wing straight while the epoxy is curing. I guess I could stand there and hold it for 20 minutes lol.

Pic is of the Hunt G10 electric mount trimmed to be epoxied on the back of the wooden motor mount. I applied glue then bolted in an old motor casing to clamp it in place. Everything was coated with release agents so hopefully it will come apart tomorrow. 

MM 8)

 
« Last Edit: March 12, 2018, 10:16:20 PM by Motorman »
There will be a sunny day and we will fly our airplanes.

Offline #Liner

  • 2017
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 1008
Re: SV-11
« Reply #66 on: March 13, 2018, 03:45:30 AM »
Great thread let me jump in here since I'm building an electric arf sv11 too.
I thought it was too  ;D
Did you guys get tubing on your control horns? No Both mine were bare, not sure how to get the hinge points on them. Was thinking to split a piece of tubing length wise then wrap those brass hinge things (not included) around and solder it together. I haven't measured the horn yet, might be metric. I bent my own and just didn't use tubing. My horns weren't perfectly straight so it made for tight controls when all the way up and down. I ditched a lot of hardware except landing gear and cowl screws.

I noticed the ball links that came with it are soft and flexible when I threaded one on the push rod. I'm switching to Dubro and a CF tube. I changed mine to dubro, also made up new pushrods and used reverse thread on one for easy adjustment

Did anyone notice allot of things aren't glued together around the wing root area? I'm definitely getting in there with some medium CA tomorrow.   I used thin CA and went over a lot of things

When I first tried to pull the lead outs back and forth they were really stiff. Lots of kinks and the front crimp kept catching on R2. I trimmed the rib and straightened everything out and it works smooth now. I hope it doesn't want the tether point farther back because you can't get the full range of adjustment. The front lead out drags on a rib out near the tip, can't fix that but it looks like it will be ok where it is.  I noticed that too. Fixed it thought, ripped it all out and replaced it all. I'll have no leadout failures. Double check your nylon adjustable leadout slide.  Mine was drilled horribly crooked.

I did a mock up of the wing joint with the beech logs and it looks good. How do you hold the wing straight while the epoxy is curing. I guess I could stand there and hold it for 20 minutes lol. Its such a tight fit mine held together by itself. However in hind sight I wish I had used 2 incident meters to double check it,  esp with the vector!

Pic is of the Hunt G10 electric mount trimmed to be epoxied on the back of the wooden motor mount. I applied glue then bolted in an old motor casing to clamp it in place. Everything was coated with release agents so hopefully it will come apart tomorrow. 

MM 8)
Chris Fretz (38)
AMA 1104207

Offline Jim Mynes

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Commander
  • ****
  • Posts: 144
Re: SV-11
« Reply #67 on: March 13, 2018, 06:32:56 AM »
On my Vector wing I measured the root thickness and the tip thickness, cut some shims that measured half the difference between those measurements, and put those shims on my bench at the tip rip locations. That takes care of holding the wing at zero dihedral.
Then when I mashed it all together the trailing edge was swept back. I put blocks in a straight line to push the trailing edge against, eyeballed the wing in place, and it looked good.
Then I measured the height of the trailing edge from the bench all along the length of it, bracing and weighing it down as needed until it was consistent.
Once I was happy with the alignment I took it he wing out, pulled the halves apart, slathered the Titebond to it, and put it back in my Ďjigí, tweaking, realigning, and measuring until I was happy with it.
When the glue dried there was a gap at the rear of the wing joint. Epoxy/Microballoons and a strip of fiberglass cloth fixed that up nicely.
I have seen the light, and itís powered by a lipo.

Offline Jim Mynes

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Commander
  • ****
  • Posts: 144
Re: SV-11
« Reply #68 on: March 13, 2018, 06:38:20 AM »
For the flap horn I used brass flat stock and wrapped it around the wire, squished it with pliers, and cut to length. I drilled a couple of small holes in the brass tag and roughed it up a bit for the glue to grab better.
Thereís not much trailing edge wood there, I think itís a 1/8 or 3/16 strip. The brass tabs donít need to be very long.
I have seen the light, and itís powered by a lipo.

Offline Jim Mynes

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Commander
  • ****
  • Posts: 144
Re: SV-11
« Reply #69 on: March 13, 2018, 06:53:48 AM »
I didnít use the supplied hinges, I use the big DuBro cotter pin type.
I wonít be using the supplied pushrods or ball links.
Hereís a tip for you...
Before you do any sanding or trimming near the canopy, stuff a paper towel in there to keep debris out. I have balsa dust and fine shavings trapped in the narrow areas under the canopy that will not come out. Iíve tried brushing it out with a small paintbrush, that just jams it in tighter. A can of computer air got some out, but wedged the rest in tight. The only solution is to remove the canopy, and as far as I can tell that will cause more problems than itís worth.
I would have preferred to install the canopy myself after pushrod adjustments and what not were complete.
I have seen the light, and itís powered by a lipo.

Offline Walter Johnson

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Ensign
  • **
  • Posts: 25
Re: SV-11
« Reply #70 on: March 16, 2018, 05:02:21 PM »
I'M just getting started on my SV11 ARF electric in the electric instruction sheet it talks about sliding the ESC through the chin round air intake down underneath into the chamber under the battery box area. There is a solid wall at the front of this chamber when looking at it through the air intake what have you guys done for placement of the ESC. Thanks Walter
Take a spin.....You might like it.

Offline Motorman

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • ******
  • Posts: 3889
  • Millville NJ PDQ Flying Clown Country
Re: SV-11
« Reply #71 on: April 02, 2018, 09:53:05 AM »
I was able to get the ESC under the battery box by going in the cooling exhaust hole.
« Last Edit: April 04, 2018, 06:06:31 PM by Motorman »
There will be a sunny day and we will fly our airplanes.

Offline Motorman

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • ******
  • Posts: 3889
  • Millville NJ PDQ Flying Clown Country
Re: SV-11
« Reply #72 on: April 06, 2018, 06:29:20 PM »
Can you save weight by getting the ARC version and covering it yourself? How much would you save?
There will be a sunny day and we will fly our airplanes.

Offline RandySmith

  • 2016 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 13107
  • Welcome to the Stunt Hanger.
    • Aero Products
Re: SV-11
« Reply #73 on: April 07, 2018, 12:09:20 AM »
Can you save weight by getting the ARC version and covering it yourself? How much would you save?

NO there is  no  ARC  Electric  SV11

Randy

Offline Motorman

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • ******
  • Posts: 3889
  • Millville NJ PDQ Flying Clown Country
Re: SV-11
« Reply #74 on: April 23, 2018, 11:23:25 AM »
Totally bummed, finish weight is 69oz. have to use .018" lines.
There will be a sunny day and we will fly our airplanes.

Offline Joe Yau

  • AMA Member
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Captain
  • *
  • Posts: 702
    • My CLPA Channel
Re: SV-11
« Reply #75 on: April 23, 2018, 04:41:11 PM »
Totally bummed, finish weight is 69oz. have to use .018" lines.

Are you running 6 cell batt? or 5 cell..

Online Brent Williams

  • 2017
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Captain
  • *
  • Posts: 557
  • Making America Fly Stunt Again!
    • Fancher Handles - Presented by Brent Williams
Re: SV-11
« Reply #76 on: April 23, 2018, 06:07:55 PM »
What motor are you planning on running?
Laser-cut, "Ted Fancher Precision-Pro" Hard Point Handle Kits are available again.  PM for info.
https://stunthanger.com/smf/brent-williams'-fancher-handles-and-cl-parts/ted-fancher's-precision-pro-handle-kit-by-brent-williams-information/

Offline Jim Mynes

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Commander
  • ****
  • Posts: 144
Re: SV-11
« Reply #77 on: April 24, 2018, 08:38:16 AM »
Totally bummed, finish weight is 69oz. have to use .018" lines.

Although not ideal, I donít see that as a problem.
When I was a teenager we were using .018 lines on Ringmasters, Flite Streaks, pretty much everything with a .35 on it.
.015 lines were for .15 powered planes.
AMA Requirements were different back then, based on displacement.
An SV-11 back then might have needed .021 lines. I never ventured above a .40 size engine, so I donít know what a .60 would have needed.
I have seen the light, and itís powered by a lipo.

Offline #Liner

  • 2017
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 1008
Re: SV-11
« Reply #78 on: April 24, 2018, 10:03:20 AM »
Totally bummed, finish weight is 69oz. have to use .018" lines.
I was planning on using .018 the whole time. It's a big airplane.
Chris Fretz (38)
AMA 1104207

Offline Motorman

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • ******
  • Posts: 3889
  • Millville NJ PDQ Flying Clown Country
Re: SV-11
« Reply #79 on: April 24, 2018, 10:44:17 AM »
Here's how I hold the battery in. I put a 4-40 blind nut in a block of basswood and epoxied it to the bottom plywood. The fork keys into the slots in the top plywood. The balsa block holds the battery up on center line. No out board plug needed, I just plug the battery in and close the door.
There will be a sunny day and we will fly our airplanes.

Offline #Liner

  • 2017
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 1008
Re: SV-11
« Reply #80 on: April 24, 2018, 01:15:05 PM »
Here's how I hold the battery in. I put a 4-40 blind nut in a block of basswood and epoxied it to the bottom plywood. The fork keys into the slots in the top plywood. The balsa block holds the battery up on center line. No out board plug needed, I just plug the battery in and close the door.
Your wing fits much better in the body than mine does.
Chris Fretz (38)
AMA 1104207

Offline Motorman

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • ******
  • Posts: 3889
  • Millville NJ PDQ Flying Clown Country
Re: SV-11
« Reply #81 on: April 24, 2018, 03:58:57 PM »
I had to sand certain areas and fill others with 1/32" shims.
There will be a sunny day and we will fly our airplanes.

Offline pmackenzie

  • Pat MacKenzie
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Commander
  • ****
  • Posts: 250
Re: SV-11
« Reply #82 on: April 30, 2018, 10:37:05 AM »
Quick question - A friend (who is not on here) is putting together an ARF and asked me what flap /elevator throw ratio to use?

Thanks,

Pat MacKenzie
MAAC 8177

Offline peabody

  • 2016 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 2458
Re: SV-11
« Reply #83 on: April 30, 2018, 01:52:48 PM »
Pat...assuming an SV 11 or Vector, 1 to 1 is great, with the bellcrank to flap horn in the slowest (least movement) position. There are a bunch flying and working well...
Other AFRs are different....

Have fun!

Offline pmackenzie

  • Pat MacKenzie
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Commander
  • ****
  • Posts: 250
Re: SV-11
« Reply #84 on: May 01, 2018, 04:52:07 AM »
SV11, same as the thread topic :)

So bellcrank to flap horn in the closest hole on the crank, and to the top of the flap horn?

Thanks,

Pat
MAAC 8177

Offline Motorman

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • ******
  • Posts: 3889
  • Millville NJ PDQ Flying Clown Country
Re: SV-11
« Reply #85 on: May 01, 2018, 12:23:55 PM »
Yes, closest hole to the pivot on the bell crank and you always want the top hole on the flap horn for best leverage. Then the flap horn to the elevator should be the same length for a 1:1 ratio. I filed the elevator horn hole a little lower for a faster elevator which will actually give me a little less flap throw but if it makes any difference I doubt you could tell. A plane as heavy as an ARF probably needs allot of flap so 1:1 will work just fine.

Motorman 8)
There will be a sunny day and we will fly our airplanes.

Offline Matt Brown

  • 2018 Supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Lieutenant
  • *
  • Posts: 59
Re: SV-11
« Reply #86 on: May 19, 2018, 09:34:28 AM »
Putting mine together today. I noticed I didnít get the flap/ elevator horn bearings nor did I get the retainer for the flap pushrod. I was thinking about soldering on a thread coupler so the flap rod would have ball link both ends.
Are the horn bearings a necessity? I could run by the hardware store and buy some sheet brass to make them out of. How thick, .015, .010??

Thanks, Matt

Offline Motorman

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • ******
  • Posts: 3889
  • Millville NJ PDQ Flying Clown Country
Re: SV-11
« Reply #87 on: May 19, 2018, 10:22:09 AM »
Yes, you should add horn bearings. The ones I use from Tom Morris are .010" brass.

The ball link on the flap rod goes on the horn, the bent part goes on the bellcrank. I think they intended it would be held in place with a wheel collar or maybe trapped by the bellcrank platform. I made a CF rod with two ball links.

Motorman 8)
There will be a sunny day and we will fly our airplanes.

Offline Matt Brown

  • 2018 Supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Lieutenant
  • *
  • Posts: 59
Re: SV-11
« Reply #88 on: May 21, 2018, 02:57:37 PM »
Okay, I screwed up! I epoxied the flap horn in upside down. I wasnít paying attention and forgot that flaps were unequal lengths. I should have marked them R and L but itís too late now. Suggestions for fixing this? I wondered if I could just resolder the horn part 180 degrees around but not sure how it has been soldered to begin with. If it is true silver, my torches arenít hot enough. Plus, it appears to have plating on both the wire and the horn part. That could really mess up any attempt to solder it.
I also have been thinking about heating the wire where it goes into the flap to see if heat will soften the epoxy enough to pull it out.

What do you think are my best options?

Matt

Offline pmackenzie

  • Pat MacKenzie
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Commander
  • ****
  • Posts: 250
Re: SV-11
« Reply #89 on: May 21, 2018, 05:06:40 PM »
Heat up the wire. Normal epoxy will get soft at fairly low temps.
MAAC 8177

Offline RandySmith

  • 2016 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 13107
  • Welcome to the Stunt Hanger.
    • Aero Products
Re: SV-11
« Reply #90 on: May 21, 2018, 05:08:30 PM »
Okay, I screwed up! I epoxied the flap horn in upside down. I wasnít paying attention and forgot that flaps were unequal lengths. I should have marked them R and L but itís too late now. Suggestions for fixing this? I wondered if I could just resolder the horn part 180 degrees around but not sure how it has been soldered to begin with. If it is true silver, my torches arenít hot enough. Plus, it appears to have plating on both the wire and the horn part. That could really mess up any attempt to solder it.
I also have been thinking about heating the wire where it goes into the flap to see if heat will soften the epoxy enough to pull it out.

What do you think are my best options?

Matt

Matt   I would try  to heat the  horn wire  and see if the epoxy gets soft enough  to pull them out

Regards
Randy

Offline Motorman

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • ******
  • Posts: 3889
  • Millville NJ PDQ Flying Clown Country
Re: SV-11
« Reply #91 on: May 22, 2018, 10:46:37 AM »
Cut some off one flap and glue it on the other flap?
There will be a sunny day and we will fly our airplanes.

Offline Matt Brown

  • 2018 Supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Lieutenant
  • *
  • Posts: 59
Re: SV-11
« Reply #92 on: May 22, 2018, 07:32:49 PM »
Heat worked perfect for fixing my screw up! After pulling the horn out of the flaps, I thought I better double check the elevators too. The elevator horn was also upside down. Both are now corrected and will start hinging my next session.

Thanks, Matt

Offline john e. holliday

  • 2018 Supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 19343
Re: SV-11
« Reply #93 on: May 23, 2018, 11:36:35 AM »
And I thought I was the only one at doing things like this.    Just yesterday evening I cut ply pieces for the elevator on new project and then proceeded to CA in place backwards. HB~>
I was always taught to respect my elders, but it keeps getting harder to find one.
Today I broke my personal record for most consecutive days lived.
John E. "DOC" Holliday
10421 West 56th Terrace
Shawnee, KANSAS  66203
AMA 23530

Offline Matt Brown

  • 2018 Supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Lieutenant
  • *
  • Posts: 59
Re: SV-11
« Reply #94 on: June 02, 2018, 06:05:21 PM »
I finished up all the woodwork on my SV11 yesterday. Iíve assembled a buttload of RC arfs. Damn few compare to the way things fitted together on this one. The wing to fuse joint only needed a little sanding to get a near perfect fit same with the joints on the stab and over-fairing. Cockpit section also had a great fit.
I screwed up and got ahead of myself. I realized after epoxying the wing on that I didnít add any extra gussets to the landing gear plate. I did glue in some 1/8Ē fuse doublers in the wing and stab mounting areas.
My current concern is mounting the motor. It seems like there is something keeping the motor from going up against the firewall. I wonder if the original motor it was designed for was a smaller diameter motor and the currently recommended motor is larger diameter. Iíll try to get into it a bit more tomorrow.

Matt

Offline Motorman

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • ******
  • Posts: 3889
  • Millville NJ PDQ Flying Clown Country
Re: SV-11
« Reply #95 on: June 02, 2018, 08:36:43 PM »
There is a bulkhead in the front that interferes with the wires coming down from the motor.
There will be a sunny day and we will fly our airplanes.

Offline Walter Johnson

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Ensign
  • **
  • Posts: 25
Re: SV-11
« Reply #96 on: June 04, 2018, 07:49:48 AM »
I finished up all the woodwork on my SV11 yesterday. Iíve assembled a buttload of RC arfs. Damn few compare to the way things fitted together on this one. The wing to fuse joint only needed a little sanding to get a near perfect fit same with the joints on the stab and over-fairing. Cockpit section also had a great fit.
I screwed up and got ahead of myself. I realized after epoxying the wing on that I didnít add any extra gussets to the landing gear plate. I did glue in some 1/8Ē fuse doublers in the wing and stab mounting areas.
My current concern is mounting the motor. It seems like there is something keeping the motor from going up against the firewall. I wonder if the original motor it was designed for was a smaller diameter motor and the currently recommended motor is larger diameter. Iíll try to get into it a bit more tomorrow.

Matt
Hi Matt, Just finished up my SV11 arf electric here are some tips for your issues. On the landing gear plate there are good size round holes all along the fuselage bottom I opened up three of them for more cooling just aft of the gear plate you can sneak in triangle stock no problem with some 5 minute epoxy through those holes. Motor mounting I used the suggested Brodak motor which does not sit flat due to the wires at 6 oclock they will flex/bend a little as you snug down the mounting bolts be sure not to use to long of bolts as to not contact the windings. Walter
Take a spin.....You might like it.

Offline Matt Brown

  • 2018 Supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Lieutenant
  • *
  • Posts: 59
Re: SV-11
« Reply #97 on: June 04, 2018, 08:01:06 AM »
Hi Matt, Just finished up my SV11 arf electric here are some tips for your issues. On the landing gear plate there are good size round holes all along the fuselage bottom I opened up three of them for more cooling just aft of the gear plate you can sneak in triangle stock no problem with some 5 minute epoxy through those holes. Motor mounting I used the suggested Brodak motor which does not sit flat due to the wires at 6 oclock they will flex/bend a little as you snug down the mounting bolts be sure not to use to long of bolts as to not contact the windings. Walter

I cut out that lip beneath the motor so the wires donít get in a bind. I was planning to use a Castle Edge 75A esc but itís too big to fit in. Searching for an alternative. I have several others that would work but no programming cards to set up governor mode. Probably going to order a Castle Talon 60 today or Iíll try the old Phoenix 45 I have in stock. Not sure how much current capacity I really need for this plane.
I considered opening up a couple of those holes for cooling air even though the manual didnít mention it. Gaining access to brace the gear plate guarantees Iíll open at least one up!

Matt

Offline Walter Johnson

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Ensign
  • **
  • Posts: 25
Re: SV-11
« Reply #98 on: June 04, 2018, 09:30:17 AM »
I cut out that lip beneath the motor so the wires donít get in a bind. I was planning to use a Castle Edge 75A esc but itís too big to fit in. Searching for an alternative. I have several others that would work but no programming cards to set up governor mode. Probably going to order a Castle Talon 60 today or Iíll try the old Phoenix 45 I have in stock. Not sure how much current capacity I really need for this plane.
I considered opening up a couple of those holes for cooling air even though the manual didnít mention it. Gaining access to brace the gear plate guarantees Iíll open at least one up!

Matt
On ESC and timer I went again with what was recommended a Brodak Hornet 60 amp esc and the Hornet hubin timer also their 3500 mah 4s lipo a little pricey but light and compact.
Take a spin.....You might like it.

Offline #Liner

  • 2017
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 1008
Re: SV-11
« Reply #99 on: June 05, 2018, 05:06:49 PM »
I've got a few flights on my SV-11. It's turning tight outsides compared to insides, hoping a pushrod adjustment helps this out.

Chris
Chris Fretz (38)
AMA 1104207


Tags: