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Author Topic: SV-11  (Read 27703 times)

Offline Chris Fretz

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SV-11
« on: January 14, 2018, 08:47:36 AM »
Sooo what kind of hinges do everyone plan on using? Dubro are all I've been using, are there better ones? I've been using epoxy to install them, is there a better way? I see the plans call for gorilla or sumo glue (which I've personally never heard of) is this a better a choice for hinges?

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Offline Target

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Re: SV-11
« Reply #1 on: January 14, 2018, 12:26:24 PM »
Gorilla or P/U glue expands a bit when it dries. It also sands pretty easily.
Humidity/water is what cures it. You can find it at Home Depot or Lowes.
A lot of RC guys use it with EPP foam builds. You can mix it with water to make it foam up more, and make it easier to sand.
https://stunthanger.com/smf/open-forum/how-strong-is-gorilla-glue/

I'll probably use the barrel hinges (like the dubro you mention) if I don't go full on Pocket type hinges (since I have an ARC). I will probably not get to this plane very soon, so I have plenty of time to think about it. https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=Sparky+Control+line+build+hinges+video&&view=detail&mid=AAE87072096403F18472AAE87072096403F18472&FORM=VRDGAR

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=Sparky+Control+line+build+hinges+video&&view=detail&mid=C27B7C454C4C9D87C307C27B7C454C4C9D87C307&&FORM=VDRVRV

Good luck with yours.

R,
Target
« Last Edit: January 14, 2018, 12:43:58 PM by Target »
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Chris
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Offline Chris Fretz

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Re: SV-11
« Reply #2 on: January 14, 2018, 03:28:41 PM »
Gorilla or P/U glue expands a bit when it dries. It also sands pretty easily.
Humidity/water is what cures it. You can find it at Home Depot or Lowes.
A lot of RC guys use it with EPP foam builds. You can mix it with water to make it foam up more, and make it easier to sand.
https://stunthanger.com/smf/open-forum/how-strong-is-gorilla-glue/

I'll probably use the barrel hinges (like the dubro you mention) if I don't go full on Pocket type hinges (since I have an ARC). I will probably not get to this plane very soon, so I have plenty of time to think about it. https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=Sparky+Control+line+build+hinges+video&&view=detail&mid=AAE87072096403F18472AAE87072096403F18472&FORM=VRDGAR

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=Sparky+Control+line+build+hinges+video&&view=detail&mid=C27B7C454C4C9D87C307C27B7C454C4C9D87C307&&FORM=VDRVRV

Good luck with yours.

R,
Target
I've seen and used gorilla glue just not on modes.  The Sumo I've never heard of. 

Your link to the gorilla glue was ingesting to read. Seems it can be  problematic expanding and pushing. What are barrel hinges? I definitely don't want to try Sparkys kind of hinge on this ARF.

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Offline Target

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Re: SV-11
« Reply #3 on: January 14, 2018, 04:17:40 PM »
Barrel hinges are Dubro pinned hinges.
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Offline Chris Fretz

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Re: SV-11
« Reply #4 on: January 14, 2018, 04:46:21 PM »
Barrel hinges are Dubro pinned hinges.
Ohh I thought they were the round plastic ones that have to be perfectly straight.
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Offline Target

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Re: SV-11
« Reply #5 on: January 14, 2018, 09:25:13 PM »
Those are hinge points.
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Offline Chris Fretz

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Re: SV-11
« Reply #6 on: January 16, 2018, 10:23:44 AM »
Those are hinge points.

I don't know I think it's time to strip you of the "control line newbie"  ;)
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Offline Target

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Re: SV-11
« Reply #7 on: January 16, 2018, 10:58:10 AM »
I'm a rc sailplane veteran. Not the "Gentle Lady" or Wanderer style.
I've cut hundreds of foam cores for sailplanes, 98% for paying customers. I also have done the (paid) gear installs for many others in their composite carbon sailplanes.
But I'm still relatively new to control line. That is what makes it most fun to me, the steep curve!
When i have time, I'll vacuum bag a carbon wing, fuse, and tail for a ukie. I'm looking forward to that.
« Last Edit: January 16, 2018, 09:56:43 PM by Target »
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Offline Dane Martin

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Re: SV-11
« Reply #8 on: January 16, 2018, 11:17:16 AM »
Hey, I like the gentle lady and wanderer! Lol. I'm actually building my son a Falke DLG. he wants it all black with a "Flash" logo on it.

Offline Brent Williams

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Re: SV-11
« Reply #9 on: January 16, 2018, 08:42:45 PM »

I've cut hundreds of foam cores for sailplanes, 98% for paying customers. I also have done the (paid) gear installs for many others in their composite carbon sailplanes.
But I'm still relatively new to control line.
When i have time, I'll vacuum bag a carbon wing, fuse, and tail for a ukie. I'm looking forward to that.

Chris...cut it out..!.  You're bragging about your mad, Tekoa foam cutting skills again.. J.K!   ..LOL!  (inside joke...) S?P ;D
« Last Edit: January 16, 2018, 10:00:57 PM by Brent Williams »
Laser-cut, "Ted Fancher Precision-Pro" Hard Point Handle Kits are available again.  PM for info.
https://stunthanger.com/smf/brent-williams'-fancher-handles-and-cl-parts/ted-fancher's-precision-pro-handle-kit-by-brent-williams-information/

Offline Target

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Re: SV-11
« Reply #10 on: January 16, 2018, 09:54:57 PM »
All I need is time now.... ::)
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Chris
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Offline Chris Fretz

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Re: SV-11
« Reply #11 on: January 18, 2018, 05:57:19 PM »
I've been messing with the SV-11 checking things out and fitting dubro hinges in the stab. It occurs to me, how do you do a final pushrod adjustment on the elevator when this things all together? No access hatch. My other ARFs I've made it possible to get to the flap horn through the cockpit as well and this one is already glued on.  Bummer there as well.  The bellcrank doesn't have a ball link just a really snug fitting rod. I'm kinda pondering putting in a 4in Tom Morris bellcrank with a ball link, if it will fit.  That would also get rid of the crimped lines. Thoughts?

Chris
« Last Edit: January 19, 2018, 03:40:52 AM by #Liner »
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Offline Dennis Adamisin

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Re: SV-11
« Reply #12 on: January 19, 2018, 10:24:39 AM »
I've been messing with the SV-11 checking things out and fitting dubro hinges in the stab. It occurs to me, how do you do a final pushrod adjustment on the elevator when this things all together? No access hatch. My other ARFs I've made it possible to get to the flap horn through the cockpit as well and this one is already glued on.  Bummer there as well.  The bellcrank doesn't have a ball link just a really snug fitting rod. I'm kinda pondering putting in a 4in Tom Morris bellcrank with a ball link, if it will fit.  That would also get rid of the crimped lines. Thoughts?

Chris

Hi Chris
I built the electric prototype and did make some provisions for adjustment.  Two things in play:

1. Obviously, take care to adjust as close as possible before your final installation of tail.  You probably will not get it perfect but you do not want it to be so far off that you are either bottomed out or hanging by a thread at one end or the other.

2. If you check the fuselage on either side under the stab you will find a kidney shaped opening in the balsa in line with the elevator horn - check out the attached picture.  Open this up for access to the ball link at the horn.  When you get it right put a patch of covering, or tape over it, or just leave it open so you can routinely inspect that connection.  After final adjustments on mine I have not bothered to cover it over, it is not that visible...
Denny Adamisin
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Offline Chris Fretz

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Re: SV-11
« Reply #13 on: January 19, 2018, 01:11:50 PM »
Hi Chris
I built the electric prototype and did make some provisions for adjustment.  Two things in play:

1. Obviously, take care to adjust as close as possible before your final installation of tail.  You probably will not get it perfect but you do not want it to be so far off that you are either bottomed out or hanging by a thread at one end or the other.

2. If you check the fuselage on either side under the stab you will find a kidney shaped opening in the balsa in line with the elevator horn - check out the attached picture.  Open this up for access to the ball link at the horn.  When you get it right put a patch of covering, or tape over it, or just leave it open so you can routinely inspect that connection.  After final adjustments on mine I have not bothered to cover it over, it is not that visible...
Thanks for the reply!  I'll do that too.

I see the back half of the fuse is half cut off above the stab, I assume that's to be cut off completely to make it easier to install the stab if you already have the elevators attached?

Did you use the bellcrank that was already installed into the wing?

Thanks
Chris
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Offline Dennis Adamisin

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Re: SV-11
« Reply #14 on: January 19, 2018, 03:23:49 PM »
Sort of.  When we got the first prototypes back we changed over from a normal nylon BC that they used in that build to one of the Brodak PSP "Windy" bellcranks.  I changed the bellcrank on the one I built and John Brodak shipped 500 PSP bellcranks to be used in the SV-11 ARF/ARC build.
Denny Adamisin
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Offline Chris Fretz

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Re: SV-11
« Reply #15 on: January 19, 2018, 04:53:03 PM »
Sort of.  When we got the first prototypes back we changed over from a normal nylon BC that they used in that build to one of the Brodak PSP "Windy" bellcranks.  I changed the bellcrank on the one I built and John Brodak shipped 500 PSP bellcranks to be used in the SV-11 ARF/ARC build.
The bellcrank in the picture looks like the same one in mine.  The circled part (control horn bearing) I didn't get in my kit. Did you leave the pushrod a super tight fit on the bellcrank or did you loosen it up some?

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Offline Dennis Adamisin

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Re: SV-11
« Reply #16 on: January 19, 2018, 06:54:13 PM »
The bellcrank in the picture looks like the same one in mine.  The circled part (control horn bearing) I didn't get in my kit. Did you leave the pushrod a super tight fit on the bellcrank or did you loosen it up some?

Chris

I built it with the stuff it came with.  Anything that was changed (like the bellcrank) was noted.  I even used the CA type hinges because I have used them in the past and they have performed well for me - but I understand others are not so willing to try them.  There was a problem with the motor mount for the electric so that was redesigned with an integrated air scoop and the nose ring was repositioned.  Randy Smith got the nitro fuselage and discovered that the pipe tunnel was wrong, so he directed how to fix that.  As you have probably discovered the wood work is superb.  The guys who bought the ARC's have probably noticed that the cap strips for the rib are laser cut and notched into the LE and TE sheeting - it looks like the sheeting is assembled off the wing, sanded, then applied to the wing in a single piece.  The leading edge radius is also very well done - certainly a huge improvement over the earlier ARF's/ARCs.  They did a good job with the CL hardware installation too.  I think these are the best ARFs/ARCs yet.

I did not make the pushrod hole especially tight or loose in the bellcrank.  The bellcrank is about 3/8" thick so I would expect that it will last a log time without wearing loose.  I know some folks like to use a ball link there.  If I was doing that I would tap the bellcrank, use a steel washer for the ball link to set on, screw the bolt into the bellcrank then back it up with a lock not.  However I would also make sure the link cleared the joiner spars.

Everybody has their own preferences, you started this thread asking if you needed to change the bellcrank.  My answer would be no you do not NEED too, however I cannot/will not bash anyone who changed out to Tom Morris hardware, that aint bad stuff either!
Denny Adamisin
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Offline Chris Fretz

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Re: SV-11
« Reply #17 on: January 29, 2018, 07:44:34 PM »
After seeing the hole drilled off center on the leadout adjuster I thought it could cause a problem.  Maybe it would be ok maybe not.  So I ripped it out. Since it took cutting the leadouts I just said screw it and changed out the bellcrank to a Tom Morris style. A little fudging but I got it to fit.
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Offline Chris Fretz

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Re: SV-11
« Reply #18 on: January 29, 2018, 07:46:23 PM »
Pic
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Offline Chris Fretz

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Re: SV-11
« Reply #19 on: January 29, 2018, 07:47:09 PM »
Wing just about done.
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Offline Dane Martin

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Re: SV-11
« Reply #20 on: January 30, 2018, 06:42:03 AM »
Bad @$$ Chris!

Offline Chris Fretz

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Re: SV-11
« Reply #21 on: January 30, 2018, 04:11:40 PM »
I'm bummed they glued the cockpit on.  If I cut it off I'll screw it up. Any thoughts?
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Offline jim welch

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Re: SV-11
« Reply #22 on: January 31, 2018, 10:28:48 AM »
Ready to fly today..
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Offline Chris Fretz

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Re: SV-11
« Reply #23 on: January 31, 2018, 12:14:41 PM »
You kicked my butt building it.  Im still piddleing around with dumb stuff.  I don't have the engine yet for it either.
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Offline Dennis Adamisin

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Re: SV-11
« Reply #24 on: January 31, 2018, 03:12:51 PM »
Ready to fly today..

Way to go - & keep us posted.
Denny Adamisin
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Re: SV-11
« Reply #25 on: January 31, 2018, 07:06:05 PM »
Chris youre doing the right things with yours bellcrank and control horns from tom great idea. Also go inside and epoxy the plate that the gear mounts to real good and gusset it against the doubler. Just like the vector it will pull out on a rough landing or too low bottom. the mount appears to be real plywood also in the nose. I made carbon gear for mine and didn't use the metal gear. couple quick flights proves what a great toy this is.
Axi 2826-10
4s 3000 mah battery
castle phoenix 50 esc
12x6 ep Apc
9500 rpm
5.0 laps on 61 foot lines
weighs an incredible 55 ozs without battery
63 ozs flight ready.
Gonna ring it out good tomorrow
I had 1.25 outboard tip weight in it and don't need but probably
 3/4 oz. The quality of this thing is quite extraordinary .
More later/ didn't mean to hijack your thread, thanks for the use of your runway...ha ha  jim
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Offline Target

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Re: SV-11
« Reply #26 on: January 31, 2018, 08:42:53 PM »
Are the e-clips securing the bellcrank OK? Makes me a little nervous.
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Chris
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Offline Chris Fretz

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Re: SV-11
« Reply #27 on: February 01, 2018, 03:47:54 AM »
Chris youre doing the right things with yours bellcrank and control horns from tom great idea. Also go inside and epoxy the plate that the gear mounts to real good and gusset it against the doubler. Just like the vector it will pull out on a rough landing or too low bottom. the mount appears to be real plywood also in the nose. I made carbon gear for mine and didn't use the metal gear. couple quick flights proves what a great toy this is.
Axi 2826-10
4s 3000 mah battery
castle phoenix 50 esc
12x6 ep Apc
9500 rpm
5.0 laps on 61 foot lines
weighs an incredible 55 ozs without battery
63 ozs flight ready.
Gonna ring it out good tomorrow
I had 1.25 outboard tip weight in it and don't need but probably
 3/4 oz. The quality of this thing is quite extraordinary .
More later/ didn't mean to hijack your thread, thanks for the use of your runway...ha ha  jim
You didn't hijack the thread,  I welcome it!  Don't seem like anyone really has anything much to say on this thread so far.  So it was great to see something!

I only put a Tom Morris bellcrank in.  I still have the original control horns. They seem to be giving me aggravation to. You can't fit 2 ball links together with the original flap horn. I got it fudged but I sware I'm getting more flap movement than elevator movement. I have pushrod on the elevator horn on the second hole down and the flap horn its the second hole up.

I had to cut a small hole to look at the bellcrank cause I was getting a clicking, turned out epoxy dripped on the bellcrank leadout. I was afraid of something like that happening. Got it moving smooth again.

I'll check out the landing gear mount, thanks for the heads up!

Chris
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Offline Chris Fretz

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Re: SV-11
« Reply #28 on: February 01, 2018, 03:53:37 AM »
Are the e-clips securing the bellcrank OK? Makes me a little nervous.
I thought it was a neat idea. I kept that part the same with the Tom bellcrank I put in.  I don't imagine they can pop off. Although stupid things can happen I suppose. Maybe glue a cap over the ends, if they do come off then the rod cant fall out.

Chris
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Offline Jim Mynes

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Re: SV-11
« Reply #29 on: February 01, 2018, 07:58:16 AM »
Are the e-clips securing the bellcrank OK? Makes me a little nervous.

I’m not sure I know what this is about. An e-clip like a snap ring?
Anybody have a picture of this setup?
I have seen the light, and it’s powered by a lipo.

Offline Target

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Re: SV-11
« Reply #30 on: February 01, 2018, 08:38:41 AM »
Yep. My bellcrank pivot pin is held in with two snap rings. I'm not able to take a picture right now. Mine is an ARC Glow model.
I might glue over the ends when i know I'm not gong to mess with it further.
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Chris
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Offline Chris Fretz

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Re: SV-11
« Reply #31 on: February 01, 2018, 03:53:05 PM »
I’m not sure I know what this is about. An e-clip like a snap ring?
Anybody have a picture of this setup?
This is the E clip in the wing.

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Offline Jim Mynes

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Re: SV-11
« Reply #32 on: February 01, 2018, 06:27:09 PM »
Interesting. That’s the e-clip I thought you all were talking about, they’re actually pretty reliable.
Never imagined them in this application, but I see no reason it won’t work fine.
I have seen the light, and it’s powered by a lipo.

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Re: SV-11
« Reply #33 on: February 01, 2018, 07:15:48 PM »
It's true that there's no reason this part should fail.
On my plane though, because the result of its failing is pretty much a guaranteed disaster, I'll set mine up so that the bellcrank pivot pin can't shift if either clip comes off.
Trusting the whole plane to a 3 cent part makes me nervous. I'm not what i would consider lucky. I'd rather be prepared.
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Chris
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Offline jim welch

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Re: SV-11
« Reply #34 on: February 01, 2018, 08:00:55 PM »
Chris
I just rounded a piece of balsa and inserted flush to the planking against the clip and shaft and glued it flush to the planking so nothing could back out.
incidently I flew the plane today in some pretty strong winds and it flys superb with some really crisp corners and is solid as a rock overhead. Lap times were 5.1 and the thing glides effortlessly for a lap and a half to a nice smooth touch down. I can't wait for some better weather to get a bunch of flights on this one.
jim
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Re: SV-11
« Reply #35 on: February 01, 2018, 08:58:04 PM »
Thanks Jim, nice report!
That's pretty much what I had in mind. Just want to make sure the pin stays located if the clips vaporized.
There is no reason for my concern, other than to satisfy my own peace of mind. I'm thinking you did it too for the same reason.

I'm so looking forward to flying this plane, but I want to do a decent job on the covering and finish, and there are 1-1/2 planes ahead of this in the queue (for the time being!!!)

Kind Regards,
Target
Regards,
Chris
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After further review...
« Reply #36 on: February 03, 2018, 05:14:14 PM »
So I was “tinkering” on the Vector and, low and behold, there are the e-clips I was asking about.
I think they’ll work just fine. Gluing caps on is probably not necessary, but I’m gonna do it anyway.
I have seen the light, and it’s powered by a lipo.

Offline Dennis Adamisin

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Re: SV-11
« Reply #37 on: February 14, 2018, 07:05:25 AM »
I only put a Tom Morris bellcrank in.  I still have the original control horns. They seem to be giving me aggravation to. You can't fit 2 ball links together with the original flap horn. I got it fudged but I sware I'm getting more flap movement than elevator movement. I have pushrod on the elevator horn on the second hole down and the flap horn its the second hole up.

Chris
Hi Chris

I did not see if you resolved your ball link dilemma, but if not here is an idea you can try.  I did this on the prototype of the Vector & SV-11's and I have been doing it ever since I started using ball links a few years back - see pix.  It maximizes the available movement to the elevator, allowing a longer pivot arm (if needed) and completely eliminates the issue with the ball links crowding for space.
Denny Adamisin
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Offline Chris Fretz

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Re: SV-11
« Reply #38 on: February 14, 2018, 08:55:00 AM »
Hi Chris

I did not see if you resolved your ball link dilemma, but if not here is an idea you can try.  I did this on the prototype of the Vector & SV-11's and I have been doing it ever since I started using ball links a few years back - see pix.  It maximizes the available movement to the elevator, allowing a longer pivot arm (if needed) and completely eliminates the issue with the ball links crowding for space.

Well I built my dads Vector wile I waited for my engine to come for the SV-11, it came the other day so I'm back into it.
I got the wing glued in last night.
But anyway I took the bellcrank from my ARF Nobler that was laying around and cut a strip off it.  I used that and basically extended the length of the control horn. But your way looks much better,  maybe I should reconsider what I did. All you basically need is just a 1 to 1 movement right?

How did you make a air exit in the cowl for engine cooling?

Chris
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Offline RandySmith

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Re: SV-11
« Reply #39 on: February 14, 2018, 10:29:51 AM »
Why not just use the two ball links not on the same side, put the elevator ball link on the other side of the horn standup

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Re: SV-11
« Reply #40 on: February 14, 2018, 10:48:33 AM »
Why not just use the two ball links not on the same side, put the elevator ball link on the other side of the horn standup

Randy
I tried that first but the ball link for the elevator pushrod  hits the nut that's holding the bellcrank ball link on the other side.

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Re: SV-11
« Reply #41 on: February 14, 2018, 12:41:07 PM »
I tried that first but the ball link for the elevator pushrod  hits the nut that's holding the bellcrank ball link on the other side.

Chris
Not if you use the same hole and one long bolt, right?
I think that you are talking about two separate holes on the flap horn for attachment right? If so, could you put the machine screws through the horn the other way, so that the nuts are outside the ball link yoke?

Posting a picture would help, but I'm at work, sorry.
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Re: SV-11
« Reply #42 on: February 14, 2018, 12:42:07 PM »
Hi Chris

I did not see if you resolved your ball link dilemma, but if not here is an idea you can try.  I did this on the prototype of the Vector & SV-11's and I have been doing it ever since I started using ball links a few years back - see pix.  It maximizes the available movement to the elevator, allowing a longer pivot arm (if needed) and completely eliminates the issue with the ball links crowding for space.

I’ve been doing the same thing, except a ball link on each side of the horn. One screw holding both.
I have seen the light, and it’s powered by a lipo.

Offline Chris Fretz

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Re: SV-11
« Reply #43 on: February 14, 2018, 01:18:44 PM »
Not if you use the same hole and one long bolt, right?
I think that you are talking about two separate holes on the flap horn for attachment right? If so, could you put the machine screws through the horn the other way, so that the nuts are outside the ball link yoke?

Posting a picture would help, but I'm at work, sorry.
I probably am thinking the opposite thing Randy was saying.  Maybe he is talking about Dennis's picture and putting one on each side.

It's pretty close it even hits the cap screw head.
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Offline Chris Fretz

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Re: SV-11
« Reply #44 on: February 14, 2018, 02:18:19 PM »
So the elevator horn is the same length as the flap horn? If not you're going to have some crazy fast elevator ratio.
Flap and elevator horn are both the same length at 1.065, with your choice of 3 holes in each horn.
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Offline Chris Fretz

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Re: SV-11
« Reply #45 on: February 14, 2018, 04:13:16 PM »
I’ve been doing the same thing, except a ball link on each side of the horn. One screw holding both.
Hi Chris

I did not see if you resolved your ball link dilemma, but if not here is an idea you can try.  I did this on the prototype of the Vector & SV-11's and I have been doing it ever since I started using ball links a few years back - see pix.  It maximizes the available movement to the elevator, allowing a longer pivot arm (if needed) and completely eliminates the issue with the ball links crowding for space.

Do you guys use the top hole on the flap horn when doing this? What elevator hole are you using also?

Thanks
Chris
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Offline Dennis Adamisin

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Re: SV-11
« Reply #46 on: February 14, 2018, 05:35:40 PM »
Well I built my dads Vector wile I waited for my engine to come for the SV-11, it came the other day so I'm back into it.
I got the wing glued in last night.
But anyway I took the bellcrank from my ARF Nobler that was laying around and cut a strip off it.  I used that and basically extended the length of the control horn. But your way looks much better,  maybe I should reconsider what I did. All you basically need is just a 1 to 1 movement right?

How did you make a air exit in the cowl for engine cooling?

Chris

Run the pushrod from the bellcrank to the top or outermost hole on the flap horn.
Run the elevator pushrod from the shared outermost hole (per my prior picture) to the outermost hole on the elevator.

This results in a 1:1 ratio.

The Vector and the SV-11 prototypes each got a half round air exit that looked something like this...

Denny Adamisin
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As I've grown older, I've learned that pleasing everyone is impossible, but pissing everyone off is a piece of cake!

Offline Chris Fretz

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Re: SV-11
« Reply #47 on: February 14, 2018, 06:43:25 PM »
Run the pushrod from the bellcrank to the top or outermost hole on the flap horn.
Run the elevator pushrod from the shared outermost hole (per my prior picture) to the outermost hole on the elevator.

This results in a 1:1 ratio.

The Vector and the SV-11 prototypes each got a half round air exit that looked something like this...
Ok good that's the way I put it,  thanks for sharing! Much better than how I was doing it. 

I saw the half round hole on the Vector and cut the covering off on that one but the SV-11 doesn't have the half round hole. Ill have to cut it.

Thanks again for the help!

Chris
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Re: SV-11
« Reply #48 on: February 14, 2018, 07:11:11 PM »
Is the 1:1 ratio ideal for the SV? When should the SV use less than a 1:1 ratio?

R,
Target
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Offline Dennis Adamisin

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Re: SV-11
« Reply #49 on: February 16, 2018, 07:34:58 AM »
Is the 1:1 ratio ideal for the SV? When should the SV use less than a 1:1 ratio?

R,
Target

Randy is the one best suited to answer this one.  All I can say is that mine flies really well with 1:1 and I see no need to change it.
Denny Adamisin
Fort Wayne, IN

As I've grown older, I've learned that pleasing everyone is impossible, but pissing everyone off is a piece of cake!


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