I had a clicking after epoxying the wing together.  It was dripped epoxy on the bellcrank, luckily I found it before I glued it into the fuse.

I adjusted my pushrod to the elevator by making it longer and it seems to have fixed my tighter outside loops.

Chris

That's interesting. I shortened my elevator push rod to give it less flap/lift in the outsides and it didn't work. I think my problem is handle adjustment. I got a set of lines made up that were the same exact length and the lead outs were so far out of wack I have a 2" line clip on the down line and I still have to feed in too much up for take off.

After all this time I finally put that crank in my Testors McCoy. 29  that you straightened. It runs very smooth,  you did a great job!  Thanks again!

Chris

I finally got to fly my SV11 yesterday. I set my timer for about 2 1/2 minutes so I was able to get in 4 short trim flights with my two batteries. First flight was smoking fast and pulling like a freight train. I thought I had set the governor to 9800 which should have given me laps around 5.4 seconds but it was more in the 4.2 time frame. Second flight I turned down the motor a bit and got in a few loops to see how it felt. It was still in the 5.0 range though. Turned it down again and ended up about 5.2/lap. A few more maneuvers that all felt fairly decent. Last flight I forgot to turn down the motor any more. Flew the remaining pattern maneuvers I hadn’t yet tried and it went pretty good. I put the batteries on charge and flew my Twister for a while.
I turned down the motor a little bit more and set the flight time to about 5 1/2 minutes. I was able to put in two complete somewhat respectable patterns on the next two flights. Granted, I’ve still flown less than 20 complete patterns as I’m still learning it. The SV11 is much better and easier to fly than my current Twister. Really have to work to get a decent attempt out of the Twister whereas the SV11 is much easier. Squares and the hourglass are kicking my butt, but there is a glimmer of hope for them now.

As far as the assembly of the plane, there are several areas that could stand improvement. First and foremost in my mind is the motor mounting. While the ply isn’t lite-ply, it is a long way from the good aircraft plywood we are used to. Bolting the motor in on the bench, I could feel the wood crushing way too easily. Not only that, but putting a washer on the mounting bolts caused interference with the prop drive collet. I ended up machining a piece of 2.5mm carbon plate to cover the whole mounting area. The downside is, my plate has blocked all airflow through the motor and it comes down hotter than I’d like. If I cut air passages similar to what is in the ply mounts, I’ll lose the load spreading properties I gained by adding the carbon plate. A 4mm carbon motor mounting plate built into the nose rather than the ply would have been awesome.
I knew of two guys that had their flap to elevator pushrods fail during construction so I stress tested mine fairly well. It survived so I used it as is.
It would be nice to have some extra covering to cover the seams where the canopy section attaches and where the piece goes on over the stab. Those seams just really stick out to me.
The instructions showed sliding the ESC in from the front and going under the battery tray. The former at the front of the tray had no holes in it where wires nor an ESC could enter. Not sure what was planned there.
I ended up putting my timer on the battery door with Velcro. It was the only place I could figure out where I had access to adjust it.
Maybe if I need a replacement, I’ll go for the ARC and do a little more modding in the nose section to alleviate some of the issues I found.
My new favorite plane!

Matt

Matt you are at the perfect time to move up on SV11. I am of the opinion that if the plane is better that you you can improve. You must have room to grow in to. SV12 was my first competitive bird and I loved it. My skills skyrocketed from that time on.

Just a heads up,  I had the wheel and wheel pant fall of in flight.  Didnt end pretty.  Gear got ripped off on the landing. I'm changing the wheel pant nuts to nylon lock nuts. I used blue threadlocker on them and the gear mount screws.

Chris

Chris you can tell that the ARF manufacturer left the option open for a tuned pipe model. I zoomed in on your picture and I definitely find that inadequate. Not only it is inadequate but on top of that it is badly glued. If you look at the glue joints you can tel that.
I would remove the box add some hardwood and modify the existing. Extend the hardwood back to get a larger footprint for strength.

Some of you are saying that it turns tighter outside than inside and that is something I expect to happen. The flaps horn is oriented at 90 degrees but if you look at your push-rod angle it goes up from inside the wing it sweeps up to the attachment point. That geometry will make the flaps go up more than it would go down for same bellcrank deflection angle up and down hence less impute up and more impute down. You need a better flap horn to get the equal response up and down.  To achieve equal response if you look from the side the horn should be oriented perpendicular in reference to the push-rod when flaps are in the neutral position. 

Some of you are saying that it turns tighter outside than inside and that is something I expect to happen. The flaps horn is oriented at 90 degrees but if you look at your push-rod angle it goes up from inside the wing it sweeps up to the attachment point. That geometry will make the flaps go up more than it would go down for same bellcrank deflection angle up and down hence less impute up and more impute down. You need a better flap horn to get the equal response up and down.  To achieve equal response if you look from the side the horn should be oriented perpendicular in reference to the push-rod when flaps are in the neutral position.

Can you post a link of a commercially available flap horn that would achieve what you are referring to?
I think that you mean the style that have the dog-leg linkage arm, right?

R,
target
PS. Going to fly DLG's now.

Isn't this the same? From Stunt Hanger Hobby.

Isn't this the same? From Stunt Hanger Hobby.

Kevin technically yes but notice the key missing element which is the nonexistent wire bend for flaps. Obviously for a reason (all planes have different fuselage widths). So when you bend those wires you have to take in account the 90 degree angle reference.  What I drew in the diagram uses the existing stuff.
What you have in your picture works as well. That horn keeps the hole for flap to elevator push-rod  at a more normal 90 degrees and will be more friendly if you want to adjust the elevator throw with a slider of some kind.

First of all there are no stupid questions and no one is a pest.
Target I don't know the geometry you have in your push rod setup or the type of push-rods you have or the ability to adjust your system. I can only assume based on posts posts which suggest a 90 degree horn perpendicular to the flap wire bend. If that is the case and you have to square reference on the flaps and elevator then leave it alone and bias the bellcrank by shortening the pushrod from the bellcrank to the flaps push rod. I think there is the easiest fix. Obviously you have to recenter the handle after that. If yo have a single 1/8 in wire you can cut it with Dremel and brass tubing (actually two pieces tube inside of tube so you have wire tube then tube outside that tube) and solder back in pace, or splice and use copper wire to wrap the splice and solder that. Before you lock yourself in a setting check to have equal flaps deflection up and down for equal angular deflection on bellcrank.
Now if this is your first SV and you are just learning and improving and this is no big deal (just a little unbalance and not excessive) as i saw in a video posted in this thread I would leave it alone practice a lot and on the next one make yourself a system with better geometry in it. Or make it a winter fix it project. I have my winter fix it project where i have to adjust the landing gear position and bring it down a little for more prop clearance.

Pic is of the Hunt G10 electric mount trimmed to be epoxied on the back of the wooden motor mount. I applied glue then bolted in an old motor casing to clamp it in place. Everything was coated with release agents so hopefully it will come apart tomorrow. 

MM

Did you hag out some of the wood mount so that screws set on top of the fiberglass not the wood?

Thank you.