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Author Topic: Strega ARF  (Read 1348 times)

Tom Vieira

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Strega ARF
« on: August 29, 2019, 08:48:04 AM »
Howdy guys.  Picked this up last night as a practice plane.  ST60, 75oz (ouch!).  Couldn't pass it up for 60 bucks!

Needs some help.  Top on the list other than degumming the motor are the controls.  Elevator has about 45 degrees up, but almost no down, flaps look pretty equal, and both are centered at neutral.  Strange geometry going on here.... anyone have a copy of the manual so I can see inside before hacking holes into it looking for the bellcrank and such?

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Re: Strega ARF
« Reply #1 on: August 29, 2019, 12:57:38 PM »
I wager that the flap to elevator pushrod has ball links or other glued connections to a carbon fibre tube. One more than likely pulled out.

Tom Vieira

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Re: Strega ARF
« Reply #2 on: August 29, 2019, 01:14:05 PM »
very possible, and probable!  just didn't want to start cutting random holes and hoping for the best as far as being where i needed to be for the ever so delicate incision(s)....

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Re: Strega ARF
« Reply #3 on: August 30, 2019, 12:34:20 AM »
Theres some pretty pictures here : http://flystunt.com/AIRPLANE/Valkyrie.htm

NOTE : theres two ARF series , a one piece wing one & a two pieve , R & L joined at center .
The center section sheeting'd have a join on the centerline for the two piece later one .

The horns in the kit arnt bad . 3 mm plated wire . but only 3 inch or so across the arms . 1 1/2 long maybe , arms .

======================================================================

Lotta people rework the suckers . Your best be , in my humble opinion . Having ' built  :-\ one .
IS CHOP THE WHOLE TOP BLOCK OFF FREE . Fore & Aft .

Theres a ply joiner at the spars , about almost 1 inch wide , behind ( under ? ) the SPARS  . only to R 1 or so on the 2 piece wing .

As its way out wide , on a deep wing , and its a hung bellcrank , theres a bit off room to moove .

Going in the top , you gt access to the flap horn / pushrod . So dont cut in the underside as theres nothing there youre after .

Id replaced the entire control system . My flaps were soft shirty snot wood , blotting paper strength .Plus I did a airfoil section tailplane , 3/4 thick , tapered
It flys o.k. with the C G way aft . But needs around 3 Oz tipweight . And 70 Ft of .018 lines , . it feels cramped on 65 foot .

I redid the leadouts too . Look in the patternmaster stuff in N 30 , as theyre much of a muchness .
Apparently 60 Oz is lap of the gods material , 80 Oz plus is not unkown . 76 ( mine too ) is mid range . 5.2 laps o.k. with that there .

Again . Bite the Bullet . Whack the whole frigging top block off , youll get good access , and a strong refit once the controls are sorted .

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Re: Strega ARF
« Reply #4 on: August 30, 2019, 12:37:07 AM »
Throw STREGA IN GOOGLE SEARCH !

https://stunthanger.com/smf/arf's/strega-a-r-c-build/  heres mine . Will look n see if ive any usefull pictures , of inside centersection .

Theres a few inches between the spars there .

Heres mine flying . 76 Oz. Royal 46 . 12 x 6 . 70 ft .01`8 lastrate .
A good pilot press ganged two minutes earlier . Mayve flown a Strega Before . Ive no idea . He never held this handle before .
Picked up the phone & hoped Id hit ' film ' , so not a entirely useless effort .



Chop the C/S sheeting out BEHIND the crown , work forward to the ply mout , still 1/2 inck plus aft of the spars .

Feed a thead through towed by a leadout , if your pulling them .
Tho possable to feed 20 gauge wire through to tow in a leadout ,
the front ones awkward .

So some upholsterers thread , taped at the tip and fuse. gets a lead rope installed before you get all artistic in the bellcrank department .

A cheap 3 mm bolt & a couple of nuts is the stock set up , with a paxilon bellcrank. Brown fibre stuff .

Addn ;

The ' Top Block ' is about 5 parts . little piece at front . along to canopy- a curved sheet with a center spar . Cockpit sides . another curved sheet . a tailplane block .
I believe the front ply formers go above the ' split line ' . And the rest .

But Id replace it with a continuous 5/8 or 3/4 sheet . hollowed . Setting a drill 1/8 ( a steel spacer ) off the table in a drill press - Holding the outer carved block & square ' at the mark ' against the table . Firmly anyway , gets a whole lot of 1/8 inch thick indexes . Chisels & 60 Wt sandpaper on various rouned things gets a worthy finish inside the hollowed block .

Jose Modesto states 'All Jims P.M.s had 1/4 inch down elevator to get equal turns ' ,
Therefore I set my tailplane / elevator at I think 3/32 incidence , or maybe 1/8 , across the full chord combined ( 1/16 near on tailplane alone .)

With the top block off , the tailplane would remove dead easy & give full access to THINGS back there .
Two Sticks taped / rubber banded near the root with equal L E packers so theyre parrallel , a few feet long , give a more exact appraisal of
the fitted angle . Thrown on the bench with a few match boxes under the wing tips and bean cans at the tailplane tips
is a highly professional way to ensure that the wings are flat while you jimmy the hinge lines dead parralel , equidistant each side .

A few more cans to weight it on top , overnight , and you cant loose .I slide a packer under the rear fuse so it cant drop and spoil things .
« Last Edit: August 30, 2019, 10:55:04 PM by Matt Spencer »

Tom Vieira

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Re: Strega ARF
« Reply #5 on: August 30, 2019, 05:45:09 AM »
thanks matt!


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