Have you discovered the cause of the broken wires?  That has to be fixed too. My first thought was to come up with some form of splice.  I made a quick search of the rules and found this under Control Line General: "Splices at any point along the lines are not considered a “termination” and are not permitted."  There might be some verbiage in the PA rules, I didn't look.

Depending on what plans you have for the plane I would either splice it if not for competition or replace the bellcrank and leadouts. If I remember, the Smoothie had the 3" VECO type bellcrank on a flat plate mount.   If that is the case you are free to use any words you would like to describe the situation, you just can't print them here!

Ken



PS - I had an ARF Nobler that I decided to retrofit Morris controls after flying it and liking what I had.  I Disassembled the wing fuselage and took the wing out.  Cut the "monokote" from the center section to the first open bay and removed the top planking.  Except for the monokote overlap you could not tell it had been reworked.  I also converted it to a floating mount.

I have 2 ARF kits in my stash. A Top Flite Nobler and Brodak Oriental. When the time comes, I plan to replace the lead outs on both models. I plan to use the replacement method offered by Dennis Adamisin. Seems relatively straight forward. With this method, the wing covering does not need to be removed.

The Oriental kit already has an adjustable lead out guide and outer wing tip weight box. But the Nobler does not. I may also install an adjustable lead out guide and wing tip weight box on the Nobler. But would have to remove the wing covering which might be a good idea anyway due to the age of the kit.

If you have added an adjustable leadout to a plane that was built for fixed you already know this.  Once they are movable, they will almost certainly hit something inside once moved.  I highly recommend taking the covering off of the inboard tip so that you can do it right.  I use an offshoot of Dennis's method for replacing leadouts without removing the covering with a twist.  I use a 36" 3/16 or so aluminum tube and wrap it in a minimum of 100 grit sandpaper for as much as you need to go from the tip to the bellcrank.  Before you take the old leadouts off or after you install the new ones, doesn't matter as long as the ends are off.  Slide the tube over the leadout and gently sand away any obstructions from the full forward position to the full aft.  Both will probably have wood that will become a nightmare if the leadouts are left to saw through it on their own.  If you do it gently you will not break anything.  Record it as you are sanding.  The harmonics are hilarious.  Publish it as an "Ode to a Crappy Crimp" 

As for the type of adjustable.  The oriental tip should be simple but the Nobler is too thin.  I suggest adding 1/8" caps to the top and bottom and sanding them to fit then using the long grommet in the hole trick.  There is a reason the Gieseke had tip blocks! 

Ken

for what it is worth (not much)  I saw Dee fly his "original" at the '64 Nats.

Have you determined what caused the broken strands?

I was always worried about something like that happening.  When I used solid leadouts, I went with a small brass tube for the guide.  Then, I went to a nylon or Teflon slider piece.  Now I use stranded leadouts because of the chance of bending the solids.  I use the nylon or Teflon slider for the stranded leadouts and never had a problem with broken strands.  A few guys I fly with have put hundreds of flights on stranded leadouts with no broken strands so it looks like they last a long time.

I have seen stranded leadouts with a piece of brass tube for the guide but I wonder how long that will go until the rubbing produces broken strands.

If the frayed strands are outside of the tip, and that part of the leadout would never reach the leadout guide at full travel, then it could be the quality of the wire.  Or, since it is a used plane, maybe the previous owner(s) damaged it from poor handling.

I have seen instances where the leadout guide is well inside the tip so that the leadouts can rub on something right at the edge of the slot.  There could be something inside the tip, just beyond the slot, that the wire was rubbing on but you can't see that unless you inspect closely.  Maybe the leadouts were rubbing on a sharp edge at the top or bottom of the leadout slot.  I chamfer that edge to lessen the chance of the leadout rubbing there.

Check everything out very well so you do not have a repeat of frayed leadouts.