Author Topic: P-Force (Read 1520 times)

Gary Mondry · « **on:** October 24, 2010, 07:15:51 PM »

It's been a while since anyone posted anything about the P-force. You may remember my post about a badly bowed fuselage on mine new out of the box. I stripped the covering and found it been sliced and then filled at manufacture. A new fuselage from Sig wasn't much better, but I stripped it also, straightened it the best I could, and glassed it with 1/2 ounce cloth both sides to try to hold it. Rustoleum over the glass. It still wasn't great, and I didn't like how it flew much at first, but as I've slowly gotten it into some semblance of trim I must say that it has grown on me. OS 25FP, Hayes 4 ounce clunk, APC 9-4 (yawn), and 2 ounces (yikes!) of lead on the nose. I guess that I ought to use a heavier engine, but it doesn't really need any more power and the 25FP likes it just fine.

Anyway, with any luck, here are a few pictures.

wwwarbird · « **Reply #1 on:** October 25, 2010, 01:41:14 AM »

One of the things I've always liked about the ARF P-Force the orange color they gave it and that it wasn't primarily white like most generic looking ARF's. Your version here actually looks really cool with the white fuse though.

I wonder if we'll ever see more ARF P-Forces produced? I do hope so, I'd buy another in a heartbeat.

Ward Van Duzer · « **Reply #2 on:** October 25, 2010, 09:48:04 AM »

I can't help but wonder how much time, effort, materials, postage, etc you would have saved if you had cut a new fuselage from a straight piece of REAL wood!

I guess I got lucky, mine was straight!

Ward-O

wwwarbird · « **Reply #3 on:** October 25, 2010, 11:22:57 AM »

If I remember correctly mine had a slight bow out of the box but I was easily able to finesse it into shape with an iron. I gave the plane away, but it's still just fine after two years when I see it at the field. I had a Tutor II once that came out of the box looking like a banana. The centerline was like an inch off center from the wing T/E to the tail, really. I also worked it with an iron, bending it past center while applying heat, to land back at center. It stayed and was fine after that.

Kim Mortimore · « **Reply #4 on:** October 25, 2010, 02:50:28 PM »

Gary,
Yes, that white fuselage looks great--better than the original IMHO.

One advantage to building your own fuselage (or the whole plane) is that you can make the nose a couple of inches or so longer. I compared the dimensions of mine to Ted Fancher's Doctor/Medic, and they are surprisingly similar, except for the short nose on the PF.

Questions, if you are inclined to answer:
1. Have you weighed it?
2. How did you apply the glass cloth? I've heard that using 3M spray adhesive and then resin on top of the glass, scraping all excess off works well and possibly saves weight since the resin isn't soaking into the balsa.
3. How does the Hayes tank run for you mounted that way? Most of those I've seen are mounted with the wide side against the fuselage. This makes the tank non-uniflow, but it seems to give consistent runs. I will be installing one on a Brodak Shark 402, so need to decide which way to mount it.
4. Does your's require a long takeoff run? Mine requires almost 1/4 lap. No problem on pavement, but I fly mostly on grass.

Thanks

Gary Mondry · « **Reply #5 on:** October 25, 2010, 08:37:39 PM »

Thanks for the compliments.

Well, Ward, I wouldn't have saved any postage, and the materials were minimal, but I surely would have saved some time and effort. The trick would have been finding the straight piece of REAL wood locally.

Kim,

It weighs 39 ounces, dry.

I brushed on a coat of epoxy finishing resin, then laid the cloth down and brushed it out, using paper towels to wipe off the wet spots.

I've typically mounted the Hayes tank with the tongue down. But I initially located the hooks for the tank to suit the supplied (Kavan?) tank. That put them too close together to mount the tank tongue down. It seems to run fine this way on muffler pressure. But don't take my word for it. I'm probably less fussy than most at this stage of my development.

It does roll a ways on takeoff (I fly off pavement), a trait I attribute to the flat ground attitude and no flaps. And there's not too much you can do with the tail wheel because the rudder sticks back so far it starts dragging the ground. I put 2 1/2" wheels on it just to be sure I could get out of the grass at Tulsa, and their field is pretty good. But I like it better on pavement with the big wheels as well. I never really cared for the look of the pants and think it looks fine with the bigger wheels.

Thanks for the comments!

Gary

john e. holliday · « **Reply #6 on:** October 26, 2010, 09:14:44 AM »

Too bad we can't get Mikey to start making the short kits again. The fuse was laser cut in four peices. Glued two peices to make one side and did the same with other side. Then using Gorilla Glue they were laminated. While clamping keep eye balling the fuse to keep it straight. Once you have every clamp available on it, hang it up to let it cure. When the clamps come off you will have one straight fuselage that is light. Mine is from the short kit and it is one of my better flying planes with an LA .25 on muffler pressure using a APC 10-4 prop now. 10% nitro fuel with at least 22% blended oil.

Kim Mortimore · « **Reply #7 on:** October 26, 2010, 12:28:37 PM »

Doc,

Have you weighed your P-Force? I'm curious how the kit version compares with the ARFs.

Dick Pacini · « **Reply #8 on:** October 27, 2010, 01:05:22 PM »

I was finally able to purchase a set of full size plans from Mikey Pratt. They arrived today in perfect condition. Looking forward to construction, but I would buy a short kit in an instant. Anybody out there with a short kit who hasn't built it yet...I'll bite!

Author Topic: P-Force (Read 1520 times)

Gary Mondry

P-Force

wwwarbird

Re: P-Force

Ward Van Duzer

Re: P-Force

wwwarbird

Re: P-Force

Kim Mortimore

Re: P-Force

Gary Mondry

Re: P-Force

john e. holliday

Re: P-Force

Kim Mortimore

Re: P-Force

Dick Pacini

Re: P-Force