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Building Tips and technical articles. => ARF'S => Topic started by: Bud Morrison on February 23, 2010, 11:14:41 AM
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I have 2 new in box OS control line engines and OSmax.40 and an OS max .35
I am going to put the .40 FP in a vector 40 but I am having a hard time deciding what arf to put the .35 in.
I have looked at the Oriental arf but then I see many of the results on the forums here show .40s being flown in them. Does anyone have any Arf recomendations to put my OS .35 FP-S Max in ? Will it power an Oriental arf ok?
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It should be GREAT in an Oriental. I think most people use .40s because they are more common, and more power is good, but I know of a couple Orientals that fly with a .25 FP, so the .35 would be great. INcidently, the .35 FP is a really solid stunt motor stock out of the box. Have fun
Oh on a side note, if you decide on the Oriental, you may want to start off with about an ounce of lead built into the tail. The FP weighs a bit more than a fox 35, so it will need some help to balance right. On both of my FP powered Orientals, I did this and it worked out just about perfect both times
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I have an L&J Fox 35 in my Oriental ARF and it's perfect. My Smoothie ARF has an OS 35FP and it's Perfect, I also have a 35FP in an RSM P-40 Profile (Kit built) with the larger 52" WS and it too is great.
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Thanks, will be Ordering an Oriental Arf tonight.
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You will like the Oriental / 35 FP-S combo. A tounge muffler and mouting the engine all the back to the firewall helps with the balance. I had about 1/2-3/4 oz under the stab on mine. ( may it rest in peace).
The ARF does have a weak spot ( at least the used one I bought did), there is a splice in the fuse sides at the back of the wing area. They tend to snap the whole rear fuselage off there if you pancake or hit a bit hard.
Add an 1/8" doubler a on the inside a couple inches past the splice. topped with a couple 1/4" balsa stringers, ( one low on each side that butts up to aft wing cutout former, and one up near the top each side)
the mod only weighs a couple grams and will improve the durability. That is how I repaired mine, and was thinking it would have been a lot easier to do it while everything was still new and straight.
It flew well enough, and made me so happy that I rebuilt it 2-3 times while learning the beginner pattern last year.
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Thanks, will be Ordering an Oriental Arf tonight.
Take it from the old DOC, order an ARC so it can be done right. Also use ball link hardware on flap/elevator horns. The wing kept coming loose on mine and wore out the hole in the flap horn. .
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I forgot to mention that mine had already been upgraded to carbon fiber push rods and quality clevis / ball links.
The stock bellcrank and leadouts showed no unusual wear when it finally met it's demise- don't know how many flights were on it, but I put up about 50+ and it was used when I got it, guessing 100+.
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Ummmm,
You can send the FP .35 to Len Neumann and let him work his magic on it. I sent one to him and now
it will run just like an ST .46 (Same Power too) with an 11.25 X 5 Eather 3 Blade prop cut from a 12" version.
Jim Pollock ;D
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You will like the Oriental / 35 FP-S combo. A tounge muffler and mouting the engine all the back to the firewall helps with the balance. I had about 1/2-3/4 oz under the stab on mine. ( may it rest in peace).
The ARF does have a weak spot ( at least the used one I bought did), there is a splice in the fuse sides at the back of the wing area. They tend to snap the whole rear fuselage off there if you pancake or hit a bit hard.
Add an 1/8" doubler a on the inside a couple inches past the splice. topped with a couple 1/4" balsa stringers, ( one low on each side that butts up to aft wing cutout former, and one up near the top each side)
the mod only weighs a couple grams and will improve the durability. That is how I repaired mine, and was thinking it would have been a lot easier to do it while everything was still new and straight.
It flew well enough, and made me so happy that I rebuilt it 2-3 times while learning the beginner pattern last year.
I remember this plane and it is the reason we call you Crash Heher HB~> HB~> HB~>
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How about putting that 35 in a Gieseke Nobler component kit.
Great flying plane.
Steve
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How about putting that 35 in a Gieseke Nobler component kit.
Great flying plane.
Steve
Hi Steve,
Does this mean that you have a few Nobler component kits left? If they are as nicely built as your Impact component kit, they should be great!
And I agree, if you have to use a wet system, the OS .35 would be the perfect engine for your Nobler. y1
Regards, H^^
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The component Nobler kit I got from Steve is, I am sorry to say, is still in the box. The nit pickers say I can't get appearance points because it is precovered with SLC covering. It is one beautiful kit I need to get in the air. H^^
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Yes, we still have some G Noblers in stock. We are working
on our second order of 100 now.
Steve
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The Vector and Gieseke Nobler are, in my experience, among the best flying of the 35-40 ARFs or ARCs. Funny thing about the pre-covered stipulation applying to Gieseke Noblers, but not applying to the $3000 (or so) Sharks that pop out of their molds pre-covered with a gelcoat. I imagine if you recovered a Moon Nobler, you'd win your right to appearance points in just about any contest in which you chose to fly, if the issue ever came up. There might be an issue. But I think you'd win your point. Check with the CD. Or fly an ARC Vector when appearance point rules favor that approach.
Your question, of course, referred to ARFs. Which do not receive appearance points in any contest I'm aware of.
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No one has talked Profiles. Brodak P40s are very good. I've seen them win Expert Profile at Brodak. Not easy. An FP35 or 40 should be able to pull them around with authority. Nice thing about the Profile is that you can qualify for a different event. Pathfinders are also nice. Might be a better match for an FP. I think they have slightly less area and a thinner airfoil. The P40s drag around a seriously thick stunt wing. Usually see them with an LA46 stuck in the nose.