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Building Tips and technical articles. => ARF'S => Topic started by: Perry Rose on August 21, 2008, 05:20:35 AM
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I have read that the cowl cracks and breaks at the mounting screw holes. I used servo grommets fitted into enlarged holes in the cowl to isolate it against the vibrations. I used servo mounting screws, the ones with the built in washer, to secure the cowl to the plane. I also secured the plastic tank in place with thin foam strips and an 'L' shaped strap running from the l.g. mount to the firewall so the tank is easily removable. I didn't care to glue it in per the instructions.
Perry Rose
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My first Nobler had the stock cowl bolted on with the supplied screws.. Your mileage may vary but the only problem I had was the screws getting loose in the wood (even after I hardened the wood up with CA). Finally went to slightly larger screws which held much better...
It now belongs to a fellow club member with a new cowl not because the screw holes split but because I didn't make it out the bottom of the triangle (on two different occasions) when the wind was blowing 25 to 30 MPH and I was silly enough to try it. First time I just patched up the cowl as best I could, 2nd time the cowl was toast..
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Just as a matter of interest while I realise that an engine cowl improves the looks of the model, does the cowl actually aid in cooling or anything else as I remember that back when I was in my teens (seems like a hundred years ago lol ) but I am actually talking about mid 60's to about 1973 which is when when I took up flying combat most of the time, I don't know if anyone is familiar with me but I originate from England so I mainly used diesels, except on my Mercury Crusader and Sirotkin Spacehound which I used Enya .35's on I tried a used Merco .35 but it had been over used and wasn't much good, I also had a new that I never managed to get properly broke in Glo-Chief .35 and a new cheap McCoy .29 shiny case green head I believe, I put that on a Calamity Jane.
The main stunt models I flew were KK Spectre AM 2.5cc powered and Mercury Monarch AM 3.5cc diesels in, I had to fly those models without the cowls because the engines would overheat with a cowl, I did try different methods to stop that happening but with my inexperience this was mid 60's so I was 15 years old and the friend I flew with had less knowledge than I did, so due to the problems with the Spectre and Monarch, I did make cowls for the larger glow powered models but never tried to use them due to being scared I would wreck these models, incidental the only one of those models I wrecked was the Crusader when it fell in doing a wingover in about 30+ mph wind just after it crossed overhead the model always seemed underpowered and floaty no chance of saving it even though I ran like heck to try to get line tension, the other's I either gave away, sold or traded I do remember getting a used MK3 Oliver for the Spacehound & a KK Spectre.
I got over my fear of wrecking models not long after I started flying combat with Oliver Tiger's in them as you cannot avoid wrecking models in combat as I am sure everyone knows that had anything to do with combat.
I realise this is kind of drifting off subject but I would like to now if using a cowl nowadays does aid in cooling more than anything else especially as I have a Nobler ARF with an L&J Fox 35 with every modification done to it including the newer type of crank on it I cannot remember what it is called I just don't want to chance damageing this engine from overheating as it is not a cheap Fox 35 anymore and I want it to last.
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On my Arf Nobler, I use magnets to secure the cowl. Oh yea, it runs with electric power, so vibration isn't an issue.
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I used blind nuts and 4-40 x ¼” long button head screws to hold the Nobler cowl on. The maiden flight will be tomorrow. We will see how the cowl holds up.
John Tate
Norfolk Aeromodelers
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Ty, can you give us some more info on the changes that you made to the cowl on the T/F ARF Nobler?
I am "re-working" one and would like all the info that I can get on the wooden cowl..
Thanks and will I see ya' at El Dorado on Nov??
Dale Gleason, did I use the correct punucition marks........ for git th' spelin 2
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For those who wish to go electric with the Nobler ARF, the stock cowl is very roomy; allowing for easy "bedding" location of the timer board ,ESC, and wiring. It also allows a great deal of air to pass through.
There is very little reason to take it off 'cause there isn't an accumulation of exhaust or fuel residue .
Being as we're dealing with an ARF anyway, it made sense to me to keep it.
No doubt though- carved wood cowls are a really nice touch...