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Building Tips and technical articles. => ARF'S => Topic started by: Phil Spillman on October 25, 2007, 09:05:02 PM
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Several weeks ago, the afternoon before the Cleveland Contest, my trusty ARF Nobler made a funny snap noise and pranged itself into the ground breaking off both motor mounts! I was devastated for a few hours and worked feverishly to get my Smoothie recovered and ready to go. All was together by 10:45 pm! Now I am faced with the challenge of replacing the rails one way or another. Have any of you done this operation as yet? And if so how did you do the surgery?
I tried to use a hot knife in my Weller Soldering gun but the epoxy I added is too strong! I am now thinking of using a Dremmel burr to grind out the old wood in preparation for the replacement. Sure would like to hear some of your thoughts and experiences.
Phil Spillman
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Phil,
When the "exotic Aisian hardwood" mounts in my Oriental ARF broke just in front of the firewall, I smoothed up the broken stubbs flush with the fire wall.
Then drilled into the stubbs with (I think) a 5/32's bit to a depth of about 5/8's inch. I epoxied a 1 inch long piece of no. 6 or no.8 machine screw into the hole. After the epoxy cured, I added 3/8 x 3/8 maple pieces which I had drilled about 1/2 inch to match the screw protruding from the stubbs. I used a small triangle to insure alignment as the epoxy cured. Small triangles of 1/32 ply epoxied flat against the outside of the new beams and butted against the firewall finshed the job.
No problems after 30 or 40 flights.
One of my buddies repaired his Nobler the easy way by using a nylon R/C type engine mount.
(Too simple for me n~.)
Jim
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R/C mount or Dremel, pick your poison! LOL!! (Jim's technique is one I haven't heard of........ hmmmmmmm.............)
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Phil and Bill,
The RC mount is probably the most sensible solution. In the case of the Oriental, I wanted the lightest solution, even if it required lots more work.
So far, the repair has proven to be a good decision with the B40 engine. Might not work with a "thumper".
I have an ARF Nobler to play around with--haven't decided between Fox 35 ABC and B40. Either way, I won't use the glass cowl but will build a balsa nose with built up cowl of some design and plan to cover with blue Jap tissue.
I have been using the ARF airframes to teach myself to use colored silkspan and tissue. There were some pix of the Oriental on the site before the last site crash--may not be here now.
Jim
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Thanks so very much! I hadn't even thought aboutusing an RC mount! The engine which I had been using on my Nobler for 3+ years of hard use was my B-40 #3. It pulled the plane with authority using a MAS 11 X 4 prop and 10 11 11 fuel. It really was a delight to fly and I'd truly love to get her back! While assembling/ building this plane I did add extra pieces of 3/8 X 1/2 to the front end. I believe that these added to to performance of the engine by stiffening up the front end.
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Phil
First I would find out what the funny snap noise was.
Willis S?P H^^
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I have ARF Nobler project underway-controls already replaced, plastic covering removed and replaced with silkspan & dope-- nose section has been re inforced / stiffened - tank compartment modified to allow insertion/removal of narrow metal tank. Nose is fitted for L&J Fox35 with tounge muffler.
Please provide more details about how you will setup the cowl without using the factory piece. Want to have cowl configured to allow install / removal without disturbing the needle valve - just want to unbolt the muffler and then have cowl detach.
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Phil
First I would find out what the funny snap noise was.
Willis S?P H^^
**) **) **)
ME, TOO!!!!!!!! LL~ LL~ LL~ LL~
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I have ARF Nobler project underway-controls already replaced, plastic covering removed and replaced with silkspan & dope-- nose section has been re inforced / stiffened - tank compartment modified to allow insertion/removal of narrow metal tank. Nose is fitted for L&J Fox35 with tounge muffler.
Please provide more details about how you will setup the cowl without using the factory piece. Want to have cowl configured to allow install / removal without disturbing the needle valve - just want to unbolt the muffler and then have cowl detach.
Look about half way down in this thread...
http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?topic=3162.0
Then take a look at the more or less finished product here.. The landing gear didn't stay, went with aluminum.
http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?topic=3515.msg25333#msg25333
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Hi All, Today was my last day in Virginia so I got to go flying with Willis, John Tate, and Steve Fitton! The wind was really up so we all went off to see a fantastic WWII Air Museum where in was stored a Hurricane, a P-51D, a P=39, a Moska, a Devistator, and an SBD not to mention an authentic Nazi Buzz Bomb! There was much more but I forget fast at this advanced age! Any way Willis too has an AFR Nobler in need of a nose job and as the two of us chatted we determined that two sheets of 5 ply birch aircraft plywood should be adequate to reinforce the front end to accept an RC type motor mount. The sandwich will be fore and aft of the original firewall with 6/32 bolts and blind nuts to attach the RC unit. I also plan to brace up the front end just a bit but expect to use the original cowell or a replacement for the same with the same. I never had any trouble with it over 3 full seasons of use. Once I get into this I'll try to post a picture or two of it!
After returning to the field Steve and I did fly a bit. The wind was still brisk but both his P-40 AND my old FW 190, both sporting LA .46's, negotiated the winds well. Wellis left me use his 11 X 7 3 blade MAS prop which helped quite a bit. Ten years ago he gave me this plane...today he gave me the prop! What great friends I am so lucky to enjoy!
Phil Spillman
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Phil
I ordered a cowl for the Nobler at the local hobby shop last year and it was $16.95
Willis
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Ty,
You trying to start somethin'??
You will be at Clanton this weekend, right? Hitch a ride with Ronnie.
Jim