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Nobler ARF Pull Test?

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Darryl W:
Anybody have experience with doing the 10G pull test on a box stock Top Flite Nobler ARF, either successfully or not? Was it a pass or fail???

I know the advice is to replace/upgrade the leadouts and bellcrank but I have already built and flown my Nobler with no modifications to the control system. However to fly it at my club field will now require me to pull test it and I am a bit apprehensive about this.

My Brodak Cardinal and Sig Buster passed with no problem but these are kit built airplanes.

Thanks,

Darryl

Dan McEntee:
  I have heard of them pulling right out of the crimps on a stock ARF airplane. The 10G pull test sounds worse than it is. A model is pulled at 10 times it's weight. There is a chart on the AMA website that breaks it down. If your model weighs 45 ounces, it has to pull 10 times that, which is 450 ounces, divided by 16 ( ounces to a pound ) which is 28.125 pounds. Round it up to 30 and you are good to go. Might as well just pull it and get it out of the way. Then you can make any repairs necessary before flying time. It's actually a lot less stressful than it used to be. I think the pull test by the old displacement rules would have been 40 or 45 pounds. It's been a while since we have had to do that.
  Type at you later,
   Dan McEntee
 

Ken Culbertson:

--- Quote from: Darryl W on April 11, 2023, 11:56:06 AM ---Anybody have experience with doing the 10G pull test on a box stock Top Flite Nobler ARF, either successfully or not? Was it a pass or fail???

I know the advice is to replace/upgrade the leadouts and bellcrank but I have already built and flown my Nobler with no modifications to the control system. However to fly it at my club field will now require me to pull test it and I am a bit apprehensive about this.

My Brodak Cardinal and Sig Buster passed with no problem but these are kit built airplanes.

Thanks,

Darryl



--- End quote ---
All I can add is DON'T DO IT.  Forget about the pull test.  You will be lucky if that is where it fails.  You don't want to wait for it to fail in the air.  The one that doesn't show till it happens is the leadouts snagging on the bellcrank floor.  The Nobler ARF controls are simply a disaster.  Get rid of them.  Every Nobler ARF should come with a roll of blue MonoKote.  BUT, once you get all of the Chinese sabotage neutralized, it is a really nice flying plane!

Ken

However, if you still insist on using them, the corrective action when the controls lock up is to go the opposite direction.  They are most likely caught on the rib holding the bellcrank floor and you are not going to free them up pulling in the same direction.  Recognizing that this is your problem will probably take longer than you have before it goes spalt.

Ken

Tim Wescott:
Mine failed in the air.  The controls locked up, consistent with Ken's observation about the leadouts snagging on something internally.

Better to cut into it now and fix it, than to look at your re-ARF'd airplane remains and try to decide if they're worth fixing.

Darryl W:
Yeah okay, I hear you guys...so those stock supplied crimped leadouts are a mishap waiting to happen whether or not I pull test! I know there is already lots of info on replacing these controls on this ARF elsewhere on this forum, so I can have a look at that.

Thanks gents for your observations and advice,

Darryl
 

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