Building Tips and technical articles. > ARF'S
My SV-11 just arrived.
John Rist:
Santa brought me an SV-11 (electric) for Christmas. This is my first full body stunt ship. It's way more than i need because I am still learning the beginners stunt patter. That's not to say that I am learning to fly. I have been flying for years. But it has always been just sport flying and I have flown some scale. But Santa knows that big boys need new toys.
Anyway I have read everything I could find on Stunt Hanger about the ARF SV-11 by Brodak. I will address all of the problems pointed out by others. The first suggestion I took to heart was that a control system up grade was desirable. All suggested a Tom Morris upgrade. Tom lives just south of me in Alabama. I have had dealings with him for some time now. He is a master in our control line community. I emailed him and asked what he would recommend for my SV-11. Three days later the postman brought me Thom's hardware. His setup address every comment made about the stock SV-11 hardware. Tom's hardware has offset control horns, brass bushings on the control horns, flap to elevator is 1:1. and the bell-crank is the latest and greatest. Photo attached.
And as I progress in the assembly I will comment with my solution to various problems. Thank You Santa! #^ #^
John Rist:
--- Quote from: Motorman on December 26, 2018, 09:07:21 PM ---Inspect the connections of the lead outs to the bellcrank very carefully for security and make sure they move freely. Also inspect and test the solder joints on the horn arms.
I'm hoping that's a weird camera angle on the elevator horn because it looks tilted back and not square.
Motorman 8)
--- End quote ---
As you suggested I checked everything. Every thing looks good. Anything that I have gotten from Tom Morris has always been done right.
John Rist:
Today I unpacked the wing that had the lead-outs and bellcrank. I tried working the lead-outs and they were jammed. One of them was frayed as it passed through the wing tip slider. You could work them back and fort if you pulled really hard. I was a little worried on how to remove the C-clips that held in the old crank. I poked at one with a pair of tweezers and it fell off. Scary! The old lead-outs were so frayed that I could not use them to pull in the new lead-outs. A piece of 1/16 wire did the trick. I used small diameter shrink tubing to attach the lead-out to the 1/16 wire. Used the hardware that came with Tom's bellcrank to mount the bellcrank. I locked the shaft in place with a drop thick CA on top and bottom. It now works smooth a silk! #^
John Rist:
I am planning to epoxy a Bob Hunt mount onto the back side of existing motor mount. That gets the motor sitting on a hard flat surface. However the screw head will be sitting on the original plywood mount. Should I counter boring holes big enough, (or cut off the wood bolt hole ears), in the wood mount to allow the screw heads and washers to seat on the fiber glass motor mount. I am sure others have added a Bob Hunt hard mount. Any thoughts on the "how-to" to get the job done.
John Rist:
--- Quote from: Motorman on December 27, 2018, 10:24:46 PM ---What I did was add a Bob Hunt mount front and back and get longer bolts. I would only counter bore the holes if you can get enough support around the mount plate. Carefully control the length of your bolts so you don't hit the windings inside the motor.
Check all around the bellcrank and spar area. Allot of stuff wasn't glued on mine. Also, check the lead out slider, mine was broken.
When you glue the wing halves together put a piece of wax paper over the bellcrank so the glue doesn't drip on the controls. You can pull it out later through the push rod hole. I had to cut away a good bit of the ribs in there to clear the ball link. Test fit everything.
Motorman 8)
--- End quote ---
Did it take major surgery on the wing tip to replace the line slider?
Did you have to hog out some of the wood to make room for the front Bob Hunt motor mount plate? On mine their isn't much room for a front plate. When cut to fit it would be in 4 segments. I am thinking maybe 4 aluminum plate segments on the front.
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[#] Next page
Go to full version