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Building Tips and technical articles. => ARF'S => Topic started by: John Rist on December 26, 2018, 01:17:24 PM

Title: My SV-11 just arrived.
Post by: John Rist on December 26, 2018, 01:17:24 PM
Santa brought me an SV-11 (electric) for Christmas.  This is my first full body stunt ship.  It's way more than i need because I am still learning the beginners stunt patter.   That's not to say that I am learning to fly.  I have been flying for years.  But it has always been just sport flying and I have flown some scale.  But Santa knows that big boys need new toys.

Anyway I have read everything I could find on Stunt Hanger about the ARF SV-11 by Brodak.   I will address all of the problems pointed out by others.  The first suggestion I took to heart was that a control system up grade was desirable.  All suggested a Tom Morris upgrade.  Tom lives just south of me in Alabama.  I have had dealings with him for some time now.  He is a master in our control line community.   I emailed him and asked what he would recommend for my SV-11.  Three days later the postman brought me Thom's hardware.  His setup address every comment made about the stock SV-11 hardware.  Tom's hardware has offset control horns, brass bushings on the control  horns,  flap to elevator is 1:1. and the bell-crank is the latest and greatest.  Photo attached.

And as I progress in the assembly  I will comment with my solution to various problems.  Thank You Santa!   #^   #^
Title: Re: My SV-11 just arrived.
Post by: Motorman on December 26, 2018, 09:07:21 PM
Inspect the connections of the lead outs to the bellcrank very carefully for security and make sure they move freely. Also inspect and test the solder joints on the horn arms.

I'm hoping that's a weird camera angle on the elevator horn because it looks tilted back and not square.


Motorman 8)
Title: Re: My SV-11 just arrived.
Post by: John Rist on December 27, 2018, 03:57:06 PM
Inspect the connections of the lead outs to the bellcrank very carefully for security and make sure they move freely. Also inspect and test the solder joints on the horn arms.

I'm hoping that's a weird camera angle on the elevator horn because it looks tilted back and not square.


Motorman 8)
As you suggested I checked everything.  Every thing looks good. Anything that I have gotten  from Tom Morris has always been done right.
Title: Re: My SV-11 just arrived.
Post by: John Rist on December 27, 2018, 04:14:42 PM
Today I unpacked the wing that had the lead-outs and bellcrank.  I tried working the lead-outs and they were jammed.  One of them was frayed as it passed through the wing tip slider.  You could work them back and fort if you pulled really hard.  I  was a little worried on how to remove the C-clips that held in the old crank.  I poked at one with a pair of tweezers and it fell off.  Scary!  The old lead-outs were so frayed that I could not use them to pull in the new lead-outs.  A piece of 1/16 wire did the trick.  I used small diameter shrink tubing to attach the lead-out to the 1/16 wire.  Used the hardware that came with Tom's bellcrank to mount the bellcrank.  I locked the shaft in place with a drop thick CA on top and bottom.  It now works smooth a silk!   #^ 
Title: Re: My SV-11 just arrived.
Post by: John Rist on December 27, 2018, 06:04:45 PM
I am planning to epoxy a Bob Hunt mount onto the back side of existing motor mount.  That gets the motor sitting on a hard flat surface.  However the screw head will be sitting on the original plywood mount.  Should I counter boring holes big enough, (or cut off the wood bolt hole ears), in the wood mount to allow the screw heads and washers to seat on the fiber glass motor mount.   I am sure others have added a Bob Hunt hard mount.  Any thoughts on the "how-to" to get the job done.
Title: Re: My SV-11 just arrived.
Post by: Motorman on December 27, 2018, 10:24:46 PM
What I did was add a Bob Hunt mount front and back and get longer bolts. I would only counter bore the holes if you can get enough support around the mount plate. Carefully control the length of your bolts so you don't hit the windings inside the motor.

Check all around the bellcrank and spar area. Allot of stuff wasn't glued on mine. Also, check the lead out slider, mine was broken.

When you glue the wing halves together put a piece of wax paper over the bellcrank so the glue doesn't drip on the controls. You can pull it out later through the push rod hole. I had to cut away a good bit of the ribs in there to clear the ball link. Test fit everything.

Motorman 8)
Title: Re: My SV-11 just arrived.
Post by: John Rist on December 28, 2018, 06:00:12 AM
What I did was add a Bob Hunt mount front and back and get longer bolts. I would only counter bore the holes if you can get enough support around the mount plate. Carefully control the length of your bolts so you don't hit the windings inside the motor.

Check all around the bellcrank and spar area. Allot of stuff wasn't glued on mine. Also, check the lead out slider, mine was broken.

When you glue the wing halves together put a piece of wax paper over the bellcrank so the glue doesn't drip on the controls. You can pull it out later through the push rod hole. I had to cut away a good bit of the ribs in there to clear the ball link. Test fit everything.

Motorman 8)
Did it take major surgery on the wing tip to replace the line slider?

Did you have to hog out some of the wood to make room for the front Bob Hunt motor mount plate?  On mine their isn't much room for a front plate.  When cut to fit it would be in 4 segments.  I am thinking maybe 4 aluminum plate segments on the front. 
Title: Re: My SV-11 just arrived.
Post by: Motorman on December 28, 2018, 05:11:10 PM
As I recall I had just enough lead out length to cut the ends off and re-crimp. Getting the slider in and out was a cut out in the bottom of the tip and patch with monokote scrap.

Now that I think of it, on the front of the mount I cut out my own piece of carbon fiber plate so I could leave more meat around the edges. I soaked the ply with epoxy and used large area washers and put the bolts in with loctite and light pressure and it still squishes the wood.
Title: Re: My SV-11 just arrived.
Post by: John Rist on January 01, 2019, 01:29:44 PM
I got the motor mounted.  I cut to fit the fiberglass hard mount and epoxied it in place.  I cut a round aluminum dist the size of my motor and drilled and taped 4 mounting holes.  I coated this disk with Vaseline and used it along with 4 bolts to clamp the hard motor mount in place.  The aluminum disk kept the surface clean and flat where the motor sits.  The spinner came from Tom Morris.  It has a 5mm motor collet  built in and comes cut for a pusher prop.

I epoxied in the flap horn.  I also epoxied in the elevator horn.   #^
Title: Re: My SV-11 just arrived.
Post by: John Rist on January 01, 2019, 02:09:51 PM
Getting ready to epoxy the two wing haves together.  Had to remove some wood to clear the bell crank. Added a piece of wood to support the plywood platform.  Big concern is keeping the epoxy out of the control system.  Right now it is totally free.
Title: Re: My SV-11 just arrived.
Post by: MikeyPratt on January 01, 2019, 03:50:43 PM
Hi John,
I wish I would seen this earlier, but if you haven't glued the wings together, you could file the spacer (under the ball-link) down until you have more clearance between the top spar and the head of the pushrod mounting bolt.  Also you could grind off the top of the bolt head for additional clearance if needed.  Another point, ad a small washer on top of the ball-ink.  This provents the plastic part of the ball-link from popping off after some aging. 

Keep up the good work,
Mikey
Title: Re: My SV-11 just arrived.
Post by: Avaiojet on January 01, 2019, 05:10:44 PM
John,

I just saw your Build.

Nice model. Kudos!

In many cases, I remove whatever material is necessary so the bell crank and push rod move freely.

What I do is use a steel shaft through the bell crank and float the bell crank.

I show photos in my Builds but Mike Griffin has a Thread on this instillation someplace. Might be other info also?

With the long shaft, an inch or better over and above the rib, allows for thin plywood Epoxied directly onto the wing sheeting. Brass bushing.

I put this plywood in place after the fuselage is in place and butt the plywood to the fuselage side.

I solder washers top and bottom then cut off the access.

Works for me. I believe the GBR-3 and Pushy Galore were done this way. There should be photos in the Builds.

That washer mentioned on the ball end is a must.

Good observation on that issue.

Charles



 

Title: Re: My SV-11 just arrived.
Post by: John Rist on January 02, 2019, 02:38:05 PM
It did not look like the decking over the tail would not come off to install the elevator.  I emailed Brodak and got the following reply.

Hi John - Happy New Year, hope all is well with you.

The SV-11 is designed to have the upper rear fuselage block removed so the tail (completed assembly) can drop in the saddle, then the top  rear block cemented in place.  My prototype built well with no issues, but I have another SV-11 here to look at. Sure enough, it looked like the rear block was rigid but it was not.  On this one the covering was scored vertically from the LE of the stab opening but the block seemed secure.  I poked at it with my knife and confirmed that the block was NOT glued there, but it looks like there was an excess spot of glue holding the upper saddle to the fuse.  The tail post was also not separated at the joint.  I think the build it this way as a means of holding all the parts together while they shape then cover them.



I cut the covering and the trim were cut through at the front of the rear block.  Next I cut the tail post at the back of the stab opening, to use a knife to cut UPWARDS from the leading edge of the stab opening one side at a time.  The rear hatch popped right off.



I suggest you give your SV a poke & a prod and see if the rear fuse will pop loose for you.  Let me know if it works - or not!





Dennis Adamisin

Electric Power Systems Consultant

Brodak Manufacturing & Distribution

dennis@brodak.com

His reply also included several photos.  Brodak is the best!!!



Title: Re: My SV-11 just arrived.
Post by: Motorman on January 02, 2019, 08:27:40 PM
I did the same thing cutting away the massive beach wood logs to clear the controls. No worries.



 
Title: Re: My SV-11 just arrived.
Post by: John Rist on January 03, 2019, 07:33:35 AM
Wing halfs togather, flaps installed.  I did remove lots of wood including cutting a notch in one of spar logs.  The controls are silky smooth.  Flaps drop under there own weight.  All is good.    #^   #^
Title: Re: My SV-11 just arrived.
Post by: John Rist on January 03, 2019, 09:57:49 PM
Ready to glue in the wing.  The instructions said to block up the wing and set the fuselage on top.  Couldn't get the wing to sit still on blocks so I built a couple of cradles to support the wing.  Centered and squared up the wing.  Marked the covering and cut back the excess.   Will put 4 drops of CA (one in each corner) and recheck aliment. Then I will CA the wing in place.

So far so good.   #^
Title: Re: My SV-11 just arrived.
Post by: Target on January 03, 2019, 11:00:56 PM
Looking good John!!
Title: Re: My SV-11 just arrived.
Post by: badbill on January 04, 2019, 07:07:33 AM
John,
              What Motor and ESC are you using in this?
Title: Re: My SV-11 just arrived.
Post by: John Rist on January 04, 2019, 08:37:55 AM
John,
              What Motor and ESC are you using in this?

Cobra 3520 KV 980.  Hobby King Turnigy Plush 60A.  4 Cell setup.  KR timer.
Title: Re: My SV-11 just arrived.
Post by: John Rist on January 04, 2019, 10:08:56 PM
Elevator taped in place and squared up.  Also adjusted elevator to flap rod.  Tomorrow I will check everything and glue it in permanent.  This is my first full body serious ship.  I didn't realize how final things become as you button up the fuselage.   ~^ 
Title: Re: My SV-11 just arrived.
Post by: Motorman on January 05, 2019, 11:49:34 AM
Did you reinforce the landing gear pad?
Title: Re: My SV-11 just arrived.
Post by: John Rist on January 05, 2019, 03:12:53 PM
Did you reinforce the landing gear pad?

Yes!   #^  Big time.  The two major complaints I read in other post was substandard controls and week landing gear mount.  This forum, If one takes the time to read, will help you avoid many mistakes.  I replaced the controls and beefed up the landing gear support. 
Title: Re: My SV-11 just arrived.
Post by: John Rist on January 05, 2019, 03:23:56 PM
I am ready to mount the motor, electronics, and landing gear.  So far it looks to be fairly straight, and the controls are totally free and smooth.

I have not glued on the canopy section yet.  I can still adjust the flap to elevator setting.  I have read several comments on how they should be set.  Should it be zero - zero.   Any comments will be appreciated.   D>K
Title: Re: My SV-11 just arrived.
Post by: John Rist on January 11, 2019, 11:57:06 AM
Ready for first flight.  Will report when it happens.  Came in at 65 oz.  That is with a 2800 4C battery.  Right now all I need in 4 minutes for beginners pattern.   ;D
Title: Re: My SV-11 just arrived.
Post by: Motorman on January 11, 2019, 01:47:35 PM
Very nice. I like to set my controls so when the elevator is neutral the flaps are slightly down. There are holes on each side of the elevator horn that have covering over them you can open for adjustments. I opened up the D shaped hole and two more round holes on the bottom to let the cooling air out. I drilled a hole in the meaty part of the rudder to add tail weight with a 4-40 nut & bolt. Mine weights 71 oz with a 6s batt so you might balance ok without it.
Title: Re: My SV-11 just arrived.
Post by: John Rist on January 11, 2019, 02:46:19 PM
Very nice. I like to set my controls so when the elevator is neutral the flaps are slightly down. There are holes on each side of the elevator horn that have covering over them you can open for adjustments. I opened up the D shaped hole and two more round holes on the bottom to let the cooling air out. I drilled a hole in the meaty part of the rudder to add tail weight with a 4-40 nut & bolt. Mine weights 71 oz with a 6s batt so you might balance ok without it.

Right now my is set at zero-zero flaps to elevator.  I did see the elevator horn openings.  My push rod has  LH & RH turn buckles making it easy to adjust.  I did enlarge the D hole to get the speed controller installed.  Opening up some of the round holes in the bottom is a good ideal.  I was able to get it balanced by moving the battery all the way forward.

Motorman, Thanks for all your help!   H^^