Building Tips and technical articles. > ARF'S
My SV-11 just arrived.
John Rist:
I got the motor mounted. I cut to fit the fiberglass hard mount and epoxied it in place. I cut a round aluminum dist the size of my motor and drilled and taped 4 mounting holes. I coated this disk with Vaseline and used it along with 4 bolts to clamp the hard motor mount in place. The aluminum disk kept the surface clean and flat where the motor sits. The spinner came from Tom Morris. It has a 5mm motor collet built in and comes cut for a pusher prop.
I epoxied in the flap horn. I also epoxied in the elevator horn. #^
John Rist:
Getting ready to epoxy the two wing haves together. Had to remove some wood to clear the bell crank. Added a piece of wood to support the plywood platform. Big concern is keeping the epoxy out of the control system. Right now it is totally free.
MikeyPratt:
Hi John,
I wish I would seen this earlier, but if you haven't glued the wings together, you could file the spacer (under the ball-link) down until you have more clearance between the top spar and the head of the pushrod mounting bolt. Also you could grind off the top of the bolt head for additional clearance if needed. Another point, ad a small washer on top of the ball-ink. This provents the plastic part of the ball-link from popping off after some aging.
Keep up the good work,
Mikey
Avaiojet:
John,
I just saw your Build.
Nice model. Kudos!
In many cases, I remove whatever material is necessary so the bell crank and push rod move freely.
What I do is use a steel shaft through the bell crank and float the bell crank.
I show photos in my Builds but Mike Griffin has a Thread on this instillation someplace. Might be other info also?
With the long shaft, an inch or better over and above the rib, allows for thin plywood Epoxied directly onto the wing sheeting. Brass bushing.
I put this plywood in place after the fuselage is in place and butt the plywood to the fuselage side.
I solder washers top and bottom then cut off the access.
Works for me. I believe the GBR-3 and Pushy Galore were done this way. There should be photos in the Builds.
That washer mentioned on the ball end is a must.
Good observation on that issue.
Charles
John Rist:
It did not look like the decking over the tail would not come off to install the elevator. I emailed Brodak and got the following reply.
Hi John - Happy New Year, hope all is well with you.
The SV-11 is designed to have the upper rear fuselage block removed so the tail (completed assembly) can drop in the saddle, then the top rear block cemented in place. My prototype built well with no issues, but I have another SV-11 here to look at. Sure enough, it looked like the rear block was rigid but it was not. On this one the covering was scored vertically from the LE of the stab opening but the block seemed secure. I poked at it with my knife and confirmed that the block was NOT glued there, but it looks like there was an excess spot of glue holding the upper saddle to the fuse. The tail post was also not separated at the joint. I think the build it this way as a means of holding all the parts together while they shape then cover them.
I cut the covering and the trim were cut through at the front of the rear block. Next I cut the tail post at the back of the stab opening, to use a knife to cut UPWARDS from the leading edge of the stab opening one side at a time. The rear hatch popped right off.
I suggest you give your SV a poke & a prod and see if the rear fuse will pop loose for you. Let me know if it works - or not!
Dennis Adamisin
Electric Power Systems Consultant
Brodak Manufacturing & Distribution
dennis@brodak.com
His reply also included several photos. Brodak is the best!!!
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[#] Next page
[*] Previous page
Go to full version