A couple of local flyer's have these.These guys are "retreads" getting back into c/l after a few years.After sorting out the controls the models were still more combat than stunt.

Moving the motor out on the mounts one hole (need to drill extra holes) helped smooth flight characteristics a bit.This solved one problem and caused another.Needle settings became erratic from too much engine vibration.The answer seems to be to peel away the balsa and covering on the fuselage bottom and "stuff " 1/2" balsa into the void.The extra nose weight and stiffing seems to help .

As for fuel, Omega should be fine.The Evo's don't like a lot of castor from our experiences.The Hays 4 oz.tank on muffler pressure has been working well .11 x 5,11 1/2 x 4 APC or even 10 1/2 x 4 1/2 APC props are working locally.

Hope this helps,
Brad

We tried several types and sizes of props with the Evo 36 / PT- 19 and found the Zinger 11/6 Pro to work the best. Fuel is 10/22 Powermaster (11% castor, 11% synthetic, 10% nitro) using tank furnished with acft.), small venturi, and needle valve set slightly rich. the engine is located in original mtg. holes, offset by one 4/40 washer top and bottom under front holes in engine mtg. lugs. Airplane controls are set for minimum throw, adj leadout is moved back toward center of wing, 1 oz of lead outboard tip weight, cg balance is good with no additional weight needed..018x60 lines spaced close in Fancher type handle. I think this is about as good a setup as we can do with this acft. The pull on the lines is good. This in my opinion is not the best trainer, but setup correctly, it flies well, my flying buddy Richard Grogan can pretty well do most of the pattern with it while I am just happy to fly again after many years. The Evo engine runs well and is very powerfull.  Bob

I have 3 of these engines ...... 2 came from destroyed PT-19's.  So far, it hasnt mattered what the plane is, they are all set up the same and they run fantastic.  Heres what I do .... take the medium venture and drill it all the way through. Take either a SuperTiger needle valve assembly, or the OS assembly found at Tower and install it.  (Remove and ditch the remote needle). All my line lengths are around 60' .... and I've found 11x4 props are best.  The only difference in props I may make, is the choice between a Zinger, or Brodak BYO paddle blade.  Remove the stock glow plug and run an OS A3. Never tried the tongue muffler ... stock has always been perfect.  Never tached any of the engines, but a guess would be 10-11K. Let it spin up alittle.  Fuel I always use is Wildcat 10%/18% oil ..... the one that has a touch of castor in it. 8-10 drops per gallon of Armour All to prevent fuel foaming. (Check your glow plug every 10 flights or so to remove the small deposit that forms on element.) I always have a nice smoke trail and laptimes are between 5-5.2 seconds for the flight duration. I run metal/muffler pressure stunt tanks .... I've noticed inconsistences toward the end of a run with clunk tanks.

Just last weekend I maidened a Brodak P-40B ARF with exactly one of these setups .... the plane flies beautifully. On 3oz of fuel, I'm getting in the neighborhood of 7 minutes flight time.  It gets better the more you run it, so if its fuel hungry now .... keep running it.  It will get better.  My very first Evo36 is in my 38 Special Bi-Plane.  It has maybe 150 flights on it, and runs like a swiss watch.

This setup will work great on your PT-19 .... give it a shot if ya wanna tinker.  I very rarely have to adjust the needle.

Check out my link below .... lots of pictures of the 38Special, and other planes.

I love these engines .... hope you do too!  Larry

Larry, thanks for all the great tips.   I do appreciate them. I do understand what you mean about the end of the run, I get 2-3 laps at wild speed. 
BTW I also just picked up a Brodak P-40 for my son, I had my eye on it so now maybe I'll get a Cardinal...


Bob, I live in Mountain Top and fly on the soccer fields when no one is using them. Sometimes the high school field hockey field as well. I do get a lot of stares, most people here have never seen a CL plane before.  

Definitely put washers under the front engine bolts.  It is an option in the manual.  Make sure that you put the pushrod in the middle hole of the bellcrank.  From the factory the pushrod end was bent incorrectly and it would only fit in the outer hole.  I had to fabricate a new one and hold it on with a collar.  I also had to relieve the area under thr bellcrank to get full travel.

The LG is soft and will bend easily.  You just have to keep bending it back.  If you fly off grass bend the landing gear forward a bit until you stop nosing over on landing.  The stock handle is an EZ just hot rock copy.  It is OK but makes sure your lines are 60 feet eyelet to eyelet.  I ended up with 58 feet, APC 10/5 or 11/4 at 10000 RPM ground launch.  5 second laps.

Make sure the CG is as per the manual.  I have had two of these and both needed a lot of noseweight.  Some move the engine forward.  I bought another backplate ($2) and melted a bunch of lead in it.  The leadouts are pretty much all the way forward as per the manual. 3/4 oz tip weight.

Get rid of the stock needle valve if you have issues.  Do what the others have suggested or what I do is use the RC Carb needle valve from OS 1A,15 part number 21181902 or steal one from the carb of an OS 25 FP.  This screws in the tap of the stock venturi.  Use some form a gasket too.  I have had success with the small venturi and 2 head gaskets ($.99).

I have put a 7/32 OD tubing sleeve in the small venturi as well.  This seems to make it a bit more friendly but may not be neccessary.  Starts on the first or second flip.

Cool Power 10% is okay.  Some use the Powermaster GMA 10/22.  I have had success with Omega or lately 10% all synthetic (green) Cool Power.  The stock plug works well for me I have also used the Enya #3.  3 1/2 ounces of fuel gives me about 7 minutes.  Sullivan slant style will fit if you need a bigger tank.  4 or 6 oz.

Like many other Profile ARFs the fues flexes too much, not a solid mount for the engine. Which means bad profile vibes. Remote needles exaggerate bad vibes. So I agree about using a through the venturi needle. Do what you can to make the nose solid. Definitely peel off the kote on the nose and fill in any gaps in the balsa. Get some 1/8" five ply and re-sandwich the nose. Better yet, cut a new fues from fairly stiff 1/2" and construct a conventional front end using five ply and hard maple motor mounts that go back near the leading edge, a balsa tripler would also be nice. The motor mounts need to be a different length. The asymmetry helps. I think. Mount the engine on aluminum or steel pads, tighten the mounting bolts and re-tighten the bolts after the first couple of flights. Then check the engine bolt tightness every few flying sessions. Make sure the tank is plumbed right. Often metal tanks need to be opened up and looked at and fixed.  Powermaster is excellent fuel. Lots of fuel is poor stuff for the way we fly.

That should get your engine running o.k.

Your trim issue is probably part warp. Not to worry kote wings can be bent pretty straight using a heat gun. Combat fliers are great at this. Alas, hard to find them around these days. Phil Cartier is an artist. But lesser folks who have experience should be able to help you out.

On building my PT 19 ARF : I  am putting 1/8 ply doublers on from the wing high point forward. I have three engines available. K and B 40, Enya 29 and OS 25 FP.  Which engine?

There is a lot of info out there on the 25fp and it is probably a good choice.  Others would know better.  I just doubled over the doublers on the stock fuse, after I took off the covering.  There is a picture of a crash out there where I went straight in from the top of the circle and it was strong enough that the mounting lugs of the engine stayed on the plane.  Unfortunately the rest of the engine was 20 feet away.

The engine bolt pattern that is on the ARF for the Evo 36 is the same as the FP, so it should drop in.  Check me on this.  You could use the pads that come with it. They are soft but better than nothing.

I would drill a series of mounting holes so that you can move the engine forward.  These PT19s come out really tailheavy.  With the beefed up nose I still had to move the Evo 36 forward about 1/2".  The FP is much lighter.