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Building Tips and technical articles. => ARF'S => Topic started by: Gary James on January 24, 2009, 01:37:11 PM
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I've got a middle-age TF Nobler ARF that I'm finally going to put together (plastic tank, wire "clips" between the bellcrank-leadouts). I know that they need to have a bunch of parts changed out, but have not been able to find a consolidated list of required mods. I've just written an email to Tom Morris to find out about his control package and I've heard that the white plastic hinges have to be replaced ( I just learned this after epoxying mine in... damn!) What else to I need to do? Anyone have a list of required mods? It's better to replace it now than to have to rebuild it later.
Thanks!
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Not a consolidated list but if you go to page 3 and scroll most of the way down there is a thread on the ARF Nobler. Sorry you'll just have to read a little.
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Not a consolidated list but if you go to page 3 and scroll most of the way down there is a thread on the ARF Nobler. Sorry you'll just have to read a little.
Did that already, before I posted, thanks. Also found the "take-apart" Nobler thread and photos. That one has a LOT of good info.
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I've got a middle-age TF Nobler ARF that I'm finally going to put together (plastic tank, wire "clips" between the bellcrank-leadouts). I know that they need to have a bunch of parts changed out, but have not been able to find a consolidated list of required mods. I've just written an email to Tom Morris to find out about his control package and I've heard that the white plastic hinges have to be replaced ( I just learned this after epoxying mine in... damn!) What else to I need to do? Anyone have a list of required mods? It's better to replace it now than to have to rebuild it later.
Thanks!
Gary James
AMA 68845
Well the original hinges are ok, but you do want to "declick" them. I took a sharp xacto blade and removed the flashing that was responsible. Sort of a pain, and I would recommend using duBro's in the first place. However once the flashing is removed the original hinges function just fine.
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Thanks Alan, that's good info. I'll double check the hinges for smooth operation.
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My changes to an ARF Nobler.
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VERY NICE ! I like the yellow! As far as a "Real Nobler Cowl" , are we talking :Make a wood one or does someone else make a better FG Cowl?
T
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I built my first using the basic modifications suggested in Flying Models and on SSW. It flew OK, but nothing great. I got a second from Tower as a scratch and dent salvage and stripped the covering, and made more changes. It flies so much better then the first, there's no comparison. What I did to the second is documented in these threads.
http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?topic=372
http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?topic=8276
http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?topic=10588
I ended up disposing of the ARF flaps, and in retrospect, I wish I'd tossed the kit control horns too. The problem with the ARF Nobler is knowing where to stop correcting problems.
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VERY NICE ! I like the yellow! As far as a "Real Nobler Cowl" , are we talking :Make a wood one or does someone else make a better FG Cowl?
I agree, that looks great in yellow, and I am not a big fan of yellow as a base color. And it's a good color yellow, too, not to orange.
Windy used to sell a green box Nobler cowl, don't know if he still does. I would prefer a wood cowl because it's easier to make it look like an integral part of the airplane.
Brett