just seal the edges of the covering - iron down and then run some fuel proof clear along the joint to keep the fuel out

Aaron, you could use some MinWax clear Poly, I've used that over other rattle can and film finishes and so far no problem with fuel proof ability.

Hi Aron,

I have been using Monokote for 40 years and it is a great product. Ultracoat is also very good, and a little easier to work with, but it is not as glossy as MonoKote. I have one Monokote plane I still fly that is over 30 years old and all the seams are still sealed, the covering is still tight, and it still looks like new. Here are four methods for sealing your seams, they are in my order of preference but they all work well.

1. If you use a small sealing iron you can stick the Monokote down well enough to seal it from fuel etc. This takes some patience to go over every seam carefully, but it is worth the time spent. Be light with the iron and let the heat from the small iron do the work. Don't push too hard or you will dent the underlying balsa. You have to be careful with this method when ironing from a dark color overlapping a lighter color. If you melt the darker color it will run over the lighter color and stain it. This can be cleaned up with a solvent but it is just better to be careful. Practice helps. ;-)

2. I try to use narrow, 1/8" to 1/4" trim tape on most of my seams. This really seals the seam and looks better than two colors just coming together. If you use quality tape it cures in the sun and seals forever. This method can also cover a few "sins" if your covering seams are not perfectly straight. 

3. If you can stand the smell you can use "Monokote Trim Solvent". It works great around the seams using Q-Tips as an applicator. Be careful not to use too much, it only takes a little to seal the edges. This stuff really works but don't try to use it in the house if you are married .... Please don't ask how I know this! ;-) ..... Link:   http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=trim+solvent&search=Go

4. I have used clear nail polish and it works well. I think it is a lacquer? On white it may yellow in several years if you don't cover your planes in the sun, so use as little as possible on the seam. It does not take much to seal our seams, much less than we all apply.

It goes without saying that the most important areas to seal are in the path of the hot oily exhaust. A pipe with a bottom rear exit and a down exit tube is the 2nd best solution for this. The best solution may be using some form of "dry" power. ECL maybe?

I hope you enjoy your new ARF. The more you work with film covering the more you will like it. :-)

Isn't this Brodak-kote and not Monokote so I suspect the above will not work as well.

Paul

Hi Paul,

Which ones do you think will not work well on Brodak-kote, and why?

#1, 2, and 4 will work well on ALL film coverings with no problems.

#3 works perfectly on Monokote and being a very strong solvent my guess it will react with the glues from all coverings, but I have not used it with anything except Monokote and Ultrakote.

Brodak ARFs are covered with film from China. This film has improved over the past few years and is now much better. For wet power users I still think it is prudent to seal the seams that are in hot oils way and on the wing LE and Stab LE.

Brodak's film covering (ordered from Brodak) is very good, and I think it is different from the film on the CL ARFs. I have used it and found it to behave much like Ultracoat.

The glues used on the different film products are NOT the same. That is why I gave several suggestions to seal the seams on film.

You can use the excellent "Windex" method to put Monokote over Monokote or Monokote over Ultracoat or Monokote over any film ..... but you can not use it to put Ultracoat over anything. This is why I did not suggest using this method to seal the edges on the CL ARFs from China.

Many of the RC ARFs from China use actual Monokote or Ultracoat, but to my knowledge non of the CL ARFs use them yet. But our CL coverings are getting better. :-)

I'm always interested in learning more about film coverings, so I would be interested in hearing your explanation as to why my suggestions will not work well with Brodak-kote. Please share your solution with us, this important problem could use all the ideas that are out there. TIA :-)

Question:  Can the whole plane be safely sprayed with Min Wax Polyurethane Gloss (non water based)??

The whole rationale was not to have to paint each and every seam on the model.  That would take almost as long as stripping the covering and redoing it!

The covering is the original that came on it.  No further covering has been applied.

Thanks
Mongo

HI Rudy,

Thanks for the comments.  We did take the iron and heat gun to the whole model.  Ironed all the seams and used the heat gun to get any wrinkles out.  Looks like we will fly it and see how it goes!

All the "openings" around the wing, stab, tail wheel, (anywhere that two parts were glued together! LOL!!) etc., were sealed with silicone, so oil should not get in those places.  For the intended purpose, the ARF Vector is a great tool.  It flies so much like the bigger planes in the SV series from Randy that it makes a great practice plane.

We'll let you know when she gets into the air.

Bill