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Author Topic: Brodak crimp replacements  (Read 2384 times)

Offline Fred Quedenfeld jr

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Brodak crimp replacements
« on: July 01, 2019, 05:57:58 AM »
Hi
Any body got any pictures on cutting into the Brodak wings to replace the belcranks  Smootjie, oriental, profile patfinder
any experience you can type about would be helpful
thanks
Fred Q

Offline john e. holliday

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Re: Brodak crimp replacements
« Reply #1 on: July 03, 2019, 12:22:40 PM »
If you were here it would so much easier to show or do than try and tell it.   I know I have a piece of music wire to pull new lead outs through the wing.  Might replace bell crank with a better one also. D>K
John E. "DOC" Holliday
10421 West 56th Terrace
Shawnee, KANSAS  66203
AMA 23530  Have fun as I have and I am still breaking a record.

Online kenneth cook

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Re: Brodak crimp replacements
« Reply #2 on: July 03, 2019, 01:34:30 PM »
            Fred, I have done a few Orientals. I remove the belly pan under the wing. This isn't difficult to do if already glued on. If you haven't glued it on, better yet. I draw around the canopy using a Sharpie, this can be removed later by using thinner or alcohol on a rag to clean it off of the covering.Once you have your line around the canopy, carefully cut using a #11 all the way through the sheeting. Use caution as there are stringers under the sheeting. Once I'm insured I 'm through, I remove the fuse sheeting at the canopy area without damaging it. Your going to reuse this piece when completed. I then gained access through the canopy to the sheeted area of the wing. This has already been cutout for clearance from the manufacture exposing the bellcrank. Your a big guy with big hands and this is a bit tight but can be done. When completed, I recovered the canopy sheeting with another color to give it some contrast to the rest of the fuse. The cut left by removing it works great to sink the canopy into the fuse enough for epoxy. I trim the area and check for fit prior to gluing. Once satisfied, I mix the epoxy, lay it into the cut and prior to installing the canopy I wipe the residual epoxy off using a rag soaked with alcohol. I then force the canopy into the cut and tape it down until it's dry.

Offline Dennis Adamisin

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Re: Brodak crimp replacements
« Reply #3 on: July 06, 2019, 06:16:58 AM »
I just did an Oriental (loose wing) Pathfinder (built) and P-40 (built). 

* Cut the LARGEST access holes you can stand, it will come in handy some time
* BIG help if you can get the bellcrank out (I did on 2 of 3)
* Removed the old leadouts.  Drill the leadout guide out to 3/32"
* Get a Sullivan Cable Golden Rod with the smallest cable.  The plastic sheath is about 3/32" BONUS: the cable is the same as their leadout cable
* Stand the wing vertically on the outboard tip. Slip the tubing through the leadout guide, and through all the ribs.  I had better luck when I also slipped a piece of 1/32" music wire into the tube to keep it going straight.
*Once the tubing reaches all the way to the bellcrank, remove the music wire and slip in the new leadout, tie to bellcrank then do the other side...
Denny Adamisin
Fort Wayne, IN

As I've grown older, I've learned that pleasing everyone is impossible, but pissing everyone off is a piece of cake!

Offline Bob Matiska

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Re: Brodak crimp replacements
« Reply #4 on: July 13, 2019, 08:26:05 AM »
I picked up an ARF Nobler from a member of the R/C club I talked my way into a few years ago. He hadn't flown it yet and in a real somber tone, told me to "take the wing off and check the controls". Glad I did! Yikes! Wish I  could post the before-and-after pics from my phone here, but no matter, it's good now. Anyhow...

To replace the leadouts, I cut two short lengths of 1/16 brass tubing, maybe an inch long. I cut off the ends of the leadouts and slipped the tubing halfway on and squeezed it with pliers. I them slipped the ends of a 20 foot length of leadout cable into the other half of the tubing and squeezed it as well. I then took the bellcrank off its post (there was no nut holding it on!) and slowly pulled the old leadouts through the wing, drawing the new leadout wire through with them. I then cut off the old leadouts and attached the new wire to the bellcrank, using brass tubing to reduce wear, as is commonly done in an installation intended for long term use. After the bellcrank was reinstalled on its post, I cut the leadout wire 6 or 8 inches from the wing and made the ends.

Hope this works for you.

Bob in NEPA
AMA 56267

Offline Fred Quedenfeld jr

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Re: Brodak crimp replacements
« Reply #5 on: July 17, 2019, 05:20:55 AM »
Thanks Bob
I am doing a Brodak P-40
I wanted to cut as little a possible  Well that did not work
Cut back the 1/16 to access the belcrank on top  YuK you can see it
Cut small hole on bottom the get to Bellcrank screw
Needed 7 MM wrench to hold nut  ( nightmare finding one)
got belcrank out   

Cut existing lead out and tapped to wing
Softened some 1/16 tubing
Put tubing thru belcrank  could not get new lead to go thru tubing  (nightmare no, 2)
removed tubing
put straight tubing on wire pushed tubing thru belcrank rolled tubing in belcrank
held old lead out to new leadout with tape added baking soda and thin CA
tried pulling thru wing and lead out guide  did not work   (nightmare no 3)
tried small piece of tubing one side crimped to old wire one side crimped to new wide
got stuck on leadout guide and pulled old wire out from crimp
Now really pissed and gave up  (already spent 4 hour with Zero Progress)
Cut hole in bottom of tip to see lead out guide
 hole in lead out guide is smaller than 1/16 that is why 2  wires would not pass thru
I guess that is why some one drilled out the lead out guides
Guess I will have to save my nickels and buy one of those lost foam jigs and learn to build my own wings
Hope full some one will read my failure and not repeat it
Fred Q


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